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Author Topic: Advice on repairing disassembled saber  (Read 146 times)
BoxtheFox
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« on: June 27, 2020, 03:51:06 PM »

Hi there!

I'm new to these forums, long story short I inherited a (slightly broken) saber from my best friend when he suddenly passed away and I would love to fix it in his honor, at some point he had disassembled the saber in an effort to repair or replace the battery pack, in the process he took it apart pretty thoroughly and I've been hoping to restore it to its former glory but I'm not sure where to start. I was hoping for advice on what parts I might need to replace (I assume the battery pack is a good start), as well as what supplies or tools (wiring, soldering iron, heatshrink tubing?)  I would need, and how best to reassemble this saber. Thank you so much for any guidance you might have, I truly appreciate it Smiley




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HesaHeart
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« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2020, 04:19:09 PM »

There are several experts here that can and will help
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Maestro Jones
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« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2020, 05:41:24 PM »

All the parts to make it work are there, but I would get a new battery holder.  You will need the following equipment: Soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, lighter/matches, and wire cutter/stripper.  All of this can be purchased relatively inexpensively from Amazon. 

As for the procedure:
1. Feed all wires into the hilt and through the activation switch hole.
2. Strip no more than a 1/4" of the outer rubber on the black wire ends (the red ones look good).  Be careful on the black wire end with the resistor.  You may not be able to take off that much outer covering. DON'T REMOVE THE RESISTOR!  Split the heat shrink on the battery pack to expose more of the wires.
3. Slip the heat shrink over one of the black wires. 
4. Twist the two black wires together and solder them together.
5. Let it cool a bit then slip the heat shrink over the solder joint.  Heat it with the lighter or match until it melts around the solder joint.
6. Slip a short piece of heat shrink over the red wire leading to the LED.
7. Solder the red wire from the LED to either of the tabs on the switch (it doesn't matter which one).
8. Let it cool a bit then slip the heat shrink over the solder joint on the tab.  Heat it with the lighter or matches until it melts around the solder joint.  Be careful not to melt the switch.
9. Slip a short piece of heat shrink over the red wire leading to the battery pack.
10. Solder the red wire from the battery pack to the other tab on the switch.
11. Let it cool a bit then slip the heat shrink over the solder joint on the tab.  Heat it with the lighter or match until it melts around the solder joint.  Again, be careful not to melt the switch.
12. Carefully fit all the wires back into the hilt through the activation switch hole.
13. Push the activation switch into the hole.  It is a "press fit" so the groves on the switch hold it in place. 

From there is it just a matter of pulling the wires/LED/battery pack to their proper ends.  Shaking the hilt should help, but if you have a wire coat hanger you a fashion a hook to pull the battery pack and straighten in it to push the LED.  I am a little concerned that the wires are a little short on the battery pack but that could just be the pictures.  A new one would have longer wires.

I hope this helps. 
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firehand10k
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« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2020, 02:42:22 AM »

The photo also appears to show the pins on the switch to wire to broken off. You will need a new latching switch as well. I have several laying around I pulled out of perfectly working sabers to change the look. PM if you want me to send one out.
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BoxtheFox
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« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2020, 07:22:37 PM »

All the parts to make it work are there, but I would get a new battery holder.  You will need the following equipment: Soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, lighter/matches, and wire cutter/stripper.  All of this can be purchased relatively inexpensively from Amazon. 

As for the procedure:
1. Feed all wires into the hilt and through the activation switch hole.
2. Strip no more than a 1/4" of the outer rubber on the black wire ends (the red ones look good).  Be careful on the black wire end with the resistor.  You may not be able to take off that much outer covering. DON'T REMOVE THE RESISTOR!  Split the heat shrink on the battery pack to expose more of the wires.
3. Slip the heat shrink over one of the black wires. 
4. Twist the two black wires together and solder them together.
5. Let it cool a bit then slip the heat shrink over the solder joint.  Heat it with the lighter or match until it melts around the solder joint.
6. Slip a short piece of heat shrink over the red wire leading to the LED.
7. Solder the red wire from the LED to either of the tabs on the switch (it doesn't matter which one).
8. Let it cool a bit then slip the heat shrink over the solder joint on the tab.  Heat it with the lighter or matches until it melts around the solder joint.  Be careful not to melt the switch.
9. Slip a short piece of heat shrink over the red wire leading to the battery pack.
10. Solder the red wire from the battery pack to the other tab on the switch.
11. Let it cool a bit then slip the heat shrink over the solder joint on the tab.  Heat it with the lighter or match until it melts around the solder joint.  Again, be careful not to melt the switch.
12. Carefully fit all the wires back into the hilt through the activation switch hole.
13. Push the activation switch into the hole.  It is a "press fit" so the groves on the switch hold it in place. 

From there is it just a matter of pulling the wires/LED/battery pack to their proper ends.  Shaking the hilt should help, but if you have a wire coat hanger you a fashion a hook to pull the battery pack and straighten in it to push the LED.  I am a little concerned that the wires are a little short on the battery pack but that could just be the pictures.  A new one would have longer wires.

I hope this helps. 

Thank you so so so much! This is exactly what I needed and I really appreciate it.
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BoxtheFox
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« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2020, 07:24:04 PM »

The photo also appears to show the pins on the switch to wire to broken off. You will need a new latching switch as well. I have several laying around I pulled out of perfectly working sabers to change the look. PM if you want me to send one out.

I hadn't noticed! Thank you so much for pointing that out, and that would be amazing!! I feel like that would save me the hassle of possibly waiting weeks and weeks for one to arrive from US
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