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Author Topic: Newbie doing it the hard way  (Read 1199 times)
BinaryHulledIon
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« on: July 07, 2020, 02:06:51 PM »

I hope this kind of thing is welcome here. If not, my apologies.

First off, I love what Ultra Sabers has put together. I've done my research and I think this place is probably the best for any kind of cosplay and customization. I'm an avid DIY'er, though, and I want to build my first saber from the ground up with spare parts like the prop masters who did it the first time. Metz flash handles, plumbing parts, & PVC. I'm going with an US blade and building my own RGB LED and driver for the emitter. I'll probably pick up a few other parts off of the US website (the emitter cover looks cool). I've put feelers out to US looking for the outer diameter of the blade so I can fit things properly. If it goes well, I might wind up adding a dagger for a twist on dual-wielding, and maybe make a couple of boffer blades for something that's cheap and I can tear up without caring too much.

Part of my idea is that if you look at some of the original props, even as late as the new trilogy, some of the light sabers have little boxes on the side that probably started just as a thing they needed to cover because it was too difficult or expensive to round out. I'm thinking though that it could be the perfect little container for an Arduino nano on a custom PCB with a trio of little trim pots so I can adjust the color on the fly without reprogramming. Plus it tickles my geek sensibilities for a person to adjust their saber with a little screwdriver. The pins on the Arduino don't push enough power to drive the 3W RGB I've picked out, so I'm going to work on a mosfet arrangement so I can drive PWM signal to the led at about 700 mw per channel through some kind of simple regulator/capacitor arrangement (though I'm not sure if this will be necessary if I do the math right on the resistors). Then of course I'm going to do some kit bashing and maybe once my 3d printer gets here I'll fab out some custom parts. Suggestions on good model kits to use are greatly appreciated.

One thing I wondered about is some kind of switch that works as a twist collar, sort of like a grip shifter on a mountain bike. I haven't been able to find one, though. Engineering my own might be a little beyond my skills at present. I also thought about seeing if I could house a small tube subwoofer inside the handle which could provide both a deeper hum and some haptic feedback, but pulling that off might require a beefier battery setup than 4xAAA.

Anybody have thoughts on this? Tips, tricks? Have I totally lost my mind?
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Cyclops942
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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2020, 03:42:16 PM »

1.  If you’re using PWM, you’re a vile, mean, nasty human being who wants to torture people with the flickering that produces, so you’d better be Dark Side.  That’s my personal opinion, based on the fact that my eyes are very sensitive to it, and the fact that so many automobile models use it is VERY distracting when I’m driving at night.  And while I’m kidding about calling you vile, mean, and nasty, I’m not kidding about my intense dislike for PWM as a means of dimming LEDs.

2.  The OD (outer diameter) of the US blade is 1” (2.54cm)... that is an easy one for me.

3.  You’re WAY more into the electronics than I am; good for you!

4. It sounds like you’re going to have a LOT of fun.  Keep asking questions, and keep looking around for ideas and inspiration.  And just so you know, WE LIKE PICTURES!!!!!
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LEGEND: 🔇= Stunt, 🔊= V4 Premium Sound, ⚡= Flash on Clash, 💎= Diamond Controller

__Aeon LE v3 🔇 in CG  __Initiate v2 🔇 in FO  __Initiate v2 🔇 in AB  __Dark Apprentice LE v5 🔇 in AS  Dark Catalyst in BH 🔊 ⚡AS  __Crimson Scorpion 🔊 BR⚡GB  __Azure Fallen 💎 in DVA fading to VA , ⚡ AS  __Frankensaber 💎 in SY fading to CG with ⚡ GB  — Currently traveling with co-owner

Light Side points preferred, when warranted

BinaryHulledIon
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« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2020, 04:18:20 PM »

1.  If you’re using PWM, you’re a vile, mean, nasty human being who wants to torture people with the flickering that produces, so you’d better be Dark Side.  That’s my personal opinion, based on the fact that my eyes are very sensitive to it, and the fact that so many automobile models use it is VERY distracting when I’m driving at night.  And while I’m kidding about calling you vile, mean, and nasty, I’m not kidding about my intense dislike for PWM as a means of dimming LEDs.

You may have a point about PWM. I'll have to research if I can manage it with just the trim pots and drive it analog. That would also make the component box smaller and less complicated, no transistors necessary. But that's going to be IF I can bring one channel of the LED all the way off with just a trim pot. After all, if I'm going to be a vile human being leaning towards the Dark Side then I'm going to need as pure red as I can get.

Edit: counterpoint is that the PWM frequency of arduinos starts at around 500hz, about twice that of human perception. Do you actually see a flicker or is it just something that bothers you about them? PWM is generally preferred over CCR for color accuracy, and I've never attempted CCR.

And don't worry about photos. I'm a photographer by part-time trade. When parts start coming in, there will be photos. I have no idea how long it's going to take me to complete the build considering that right now I'm just trying to prototype the driver & emitter.
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Cyclops942
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« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2020, 04:33:22 PM »

Head on over to CandlePowerForums to find out lots of info on LED lighting projects.  There are people there who are electrical engineers by trade, some of whom are actually flashlight manufacturers, and some who prefer to modify existing designs.  They can probably provide you with wiring and circuit designs for what you’re wanting to do.  There are also folks who are not professionally trained, who nonetheless have a HUGE amount of knowledge, and love the idea of DIY projects.
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LEGEND: 🔇= Stunt, 🔊= V4 Premium Sound, ⚡= Flash on Clash, 💎= Diamond Controller

__Aeon LE v3 🔇 in CG  __Initiate v2 🔇 in FO  __Initiate v2 🔇 in AB  __Dark Apprentice LE v5 🔇 in AS  Dark Catalyst in BH 🔊 ⚡AS  __Crimson Scorpion 🔊 BR⚡GB  __Azure Fallen 💎 in DVA fading to VA , ⚡ AS  __Frankensaber 💎 in SY fading to CG with ⚡ GB  — Currently traveling with co-owner

Light Side points preferred, when warranted

Sakura No Kaze
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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2020, 05:27:47 PM »

I hope this kind of thing is welcome here. If not, my apologies.

First off, I love what Ultra Sabers has put together. I've done my research and I think this place is probably the best for any kind of cosplay and customization. I'm an avid DIY'er, though, and I want to build my first saber from the ground up with spare parts like the prop masters who did it the first time. Metz flash handles, plumbing parts, & PVC. I'm going with an US blade and building my own RGB LED and driver for the emitter. I'll probably pick up a few other parts off of the US website (the emitter cover looks cool). I've put feelers out to US looking for the outer diameter of the blade so I can fit things properly. If it goes well, I might wind up adding a dagger for a twist on dual-wielding, and maybe make a couple of boffer blades for something that's cheap and I can tear up without caring too much.

Part of my idea is that if you look at some of the original props, even as late as the new trilogy, some of the light sabers have little boxes on the side that probably started just as a thing they needed to cover because it was too difficult or expensive to round out. I'm thinking though that it could be the perfect little container for an Arduino nano on a custom PCB with a trio of little trim pots so I can adjust the color on the fly without reprogramming. Plus it tickles my geek sensibilities for a person to adjust their saber with a little screwdriver. The pins on the Arduino don't push enough power to drive the 3W RGB I've picked out, so I'm going to work on a mosfet arrangement so I can drive PWM signal to the led at about 700 mw per channel through some kind of simple regulator/capacitor arrangement (though I'm not sure if this will be necessary if I do the math right on the resistors). Then of course I'm going to do some kit bashing and maybe once my 3d printer gets here I'll fab out some custom parts. Suggestions on good model kits to use are greatly appreciated.

One thing I wondered about is some kind of switch that works as a twist collar, sort of like a grip shifter on a mountain bike. I haven't been able to find one, though. Engineering my own might be a little beyond my skills at present. I also thought about seeing if I could house a small tube subwoofer inside the handle which could provide both a deeper hum and some haptic feedback, but pulling that off might require a beefier battery setup than 4xAAA.


I think I understood about the first four sentences....

Quote
Anybody have thoughts on this? Tips, tricks? Have I totally lost my mind?


Yes, yes, yes. But that's not a bad thing. I don't think any of the following is exactly what you're looking to do, but they should give you some good ideas/inspirations/information/etc.

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=25382.0 - Good DIY thoughts on what might/might not work. Kouri's link to the LED resistor calculator doesn't work, but this one should, and it's to the same site anyway: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz/

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=27654.0 - This is actually the first thread I thought of when I read your post, if I understand what "trim pots" do correctly. Similar to what I think you're looking to do, just using a different method.

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=34175.0 - This is just DIY saber paradise, with pictures of everything from work space, to dog, to machining out switch openings on hilts, to other shiny stuff.

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=25995.0 - Neat RGB build with light up switches.

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=32194.0 - Also, this is possible should you wish to take a US hilt that doesn't have a removable emitter, and put something different on it.
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Cyclops942
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« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2020, 06:16:26 PM »

Wow, SakuraNoKaze... way to make me feel like an under-achiever... LOL

EXCELLENT POST, sir!  Have a Dark Side point to honor that.
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LEGEND: 🔇= Stunt, 🔊= V4 Premium Sound, ⚡= Flash on Clash, 💎= Diamond Controller

__Aeon LE v3 🔇 in CG  __Initiate v2 🔇 in FO  __Initiate v2 🔇 in AB  __Dark Apprentice LE v5 🔇 in AS  Dark Catalyst in BH 🔊 ⚡AS  __Crimson Scorpion 🔊 BR⚡GB  __Azure Fallen 💎 in DVA fading to VA , ⚡ AS  __Frankensaber 💎 in SY fading to CG with ⚡ GB  — Currently traveling with co-owner

Light Side points preferred, when warranted

BinaryHulledIon
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« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2020, 09:25:01 PM »

Thanks all. Turns out trying to drive a high power RGB led (really, three LED's each pushing 1W) in a small form factor can get really complicated. I'm still doing research and waiting for some parts to come in. It looks like I'm going to have to buy 3 independent drivers and run PWM (sorry about the eye, cyclops) on the low side to get this to work like I want. I'm worried about trying to get 6 wires through the heat sink and lens assembly; I might have to drill it out a little bit.
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firehand10k
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« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2020, 12:30:23 AM »

Thanks all. Turns out trying to drive a high power RGB led (really, three LED's each pushing 1W) in a small form factor can get really complicated. I'm still doing research and waiting for some parts to come in. It looks like I'm going to have to buy 3 independent drivers and run PWM (sorry about the eye, cyclops) on the low side to get this to work like I want. I'm worried about trying to get 6 wires through the heat sink and lens assembly; I might have to drill it out a little bit.

Most of the heat sinks are designed for 6 wires specifically because of how common tri-Cree use has become.
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