Makeshift Unorthodox Costume (In Progress)

[SirLiftaLot]

650 lumen light charged and tested. It's small. Very small. And it's bright. Very bright.

IMAGE 1: in normally lit room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
MIDDLE: Other guy's RBG core in 26.5" blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in nunchuck blade


IMAGE 2: in totally dark room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
MIDDLE: Other guy's RBG core in 26.5" blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in nunchuck blade


IMAGE 3: in normally lit room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
MIDDLE: Other guy's RBG core in 26.5" blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in 26.5" blade


IMAGE 4: in totally dark room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
MIDDLE: Other guy's RBG core in 26.5" blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in 26.5" blade


IMAGE 5: in normally lit room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in nunchuck-blade


IMAGE 6: in totally dark room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in nunchuck-blade


IMAGE 7: in normally lit room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in nunchuck-blade (ramped down to 100 lumens after 90 seconds)


IMAGE 8: in totally dark room
TOP: 250 lumen light in nunchuck-blade
BOTTOM: 650 lumen light in nunchuck-blade (ramped down to 100 lumens after 90 seconds)


NOTES:

The differences are more clear in person than in photos. The 100 to 250 lumens in the nunchuck blades is pretty noticeable. The 100 is a bit dim, while the 250 is pretty perfect. The 650 almost actually hurts to look at for more than a few seconds in the nunchuck blade. But in the 26.5" blade, the 650 lumen light is very nice. The flashlight-lit blades also don't appear quite as slightly-yellow-tinted as they do in the photos. They're more of a harsh white, and the RBG core-lit blade is more of a blue-white.

But look how SMALL the 650 lumen light is. There is a key-ring that can go on it that is the perfect size to keep it from sliding totally into and up the blade, but still fitting in a hilt/emitter. You can see the length of the light by where the illumination in the base of the blade starts. The whole flashlight is 2.38" long. That's insane. The 250 lumen light I have is still a very small 3.87" itself. But we're talking over 1.5" shorter here. But the button is on the side, not the tail-cap like the 250 is, so the 250 is an overall easier setup to turn on and off, as you don't have to remove it from the blade to turn it on. And given that the 650 ramps down to 100 lumens after 90 seconds, the 250 seems to be the perfect option for a dagger or short bladed weapon where you want to keep a very small hilt length and still be able to keep it bright for longer periods of time. A 650 lumen option that doesn't need to ramp down would be bigger, which would mean it likely wouldn't fit into the blade, and would be longer, so not suited for short-hilted options, but then again, I don't really see the need for a sub-6" hilt with a 24" or longer blade, so probably just stick to standard saber cores for standard sabers.

EDIT: "RBG" should be "RGB" but I'm not going back and changing every instance of that. No, they're not some special cores named after the former Supreme Court Justice (RIP).

[SirLiftaLot]

Aside from how difficult it would be to turn on and off (you'd have to separate the two halves any time you wanted to turn it on or off), you could make a really cool Exar Kun style one-handed saberstaff. The Dominicide looks amazing, but 17" hilt to hilt may be a little bit longer than someone may want for something that's a TRUE one-handed staff, that is a staff that you can't really even use well with two hands if you wanted to. You could literally just attach two MHS emitters to a small extension-coupler in the middle that's as wide as you hand an call it a day. Not sure how practical it would be, but if you're trying to pass some wonky saber setup that satisfies Saber Legion's rules, you could actually run a staff and a single bladed saber. They say no single hilt >16" for dual-wielding, but that's no problem here with a well under 12" hilt. Total 84" maximum length between the two sabers (blade tip to pommel) means you can have 24" blade lengths with a 6" hilt on the staff providing 54", and then another 6" hilt for a shoto with 24" blade lengths. Exactly 84" between the two. Now you have the staff for defensive use and the shoto for offensive use. You'd have to get up close and personal, but with two blades for protecting yourself, perhaps it could work.

[MercuryKungFu]

https://coastportland.com/collections/led-flashlights

Coast lights.

[SirLiftaLot]

So apparently MHSv1 female couplers fit almost perfectly over my 1.25" OD 6' hardwood bo staff, so I had to throw my light-dagger onto the end of it to make a saber-spear. Or a saberyari, since it does seem pretty similar to jumonji yari if I'm not mistaken due to the slightly angled crossguard on the dagger that now serves as the spearhead.

From butt to blade-tip, it's around 7'6". And I'm thinking of adding another, shorter female/female MHSv1 piece on the butt end with a spiked pommel to replicate the metal buttcap that a lot of spears have.




Actual Yari spears shown below:




Also tested out what the light-dagger would look like with a 24-26" blade:


And here's a photo giving some context to the length of the hilt of the dagger. It's just about as short as you'd want for true one-handed design.

[janx]

that's pretty cool.  And you could get a closet rod or PVC pipe that fits the same diameter (allowing you to chop it down to size) if needed be.

[SirLiftaLot]

that's pretty cool.  And you could get a closet rod or PVC pipe that fits the same diameter (allowing you to chop it down to size) if needed be.

Thanks. Yeah, I could use PVC or a rod and cut it down, and then just add some counterweight to the butt end to balance things out. The hardwood staff is pretty solid/heavy, so I don’t think it needs as much counterweight to have a decent balance. Plus hardwood looks rich IMO. This will be a demonstration setup only, no sparring. The Ripper blade isn’t for sparring, the metal crossguard so close to the tip also isn’t good for sparring, and the overall super long length is pretty much out of the rules for any sparring/dueling group I’ve seen. Plus anything with that long of a lever and that much mass at the tip is going to probably hit too hard at any decent speed for anything short of full heavy armored sparring I’d think.

[Zren Tobas]

Cool idea for the short sword like saber That one definitely needs more of a medieval looking style blade made

[SirLiftaLot]

Cool idea for the short sword like saber That one definitely needs more of a medieval looking style blade made

Thanks! A nice short-medium length Ripper blade would look very nice with it I think. There's some nice Ripper Clones that are between 26" and 28" long, which would probably be decent for a one-handed sword, priced at $75 to $85, and there's also a Spartan Ripper that's 18" long for $90, which would make for a very controllable true one-hander, since the hilt isn't long enough for a two-handed grip.