Good job. Nice buckle choice.
thanks!
Some general tips for anybody leatherworking SW belts:
There's a tool for shaving the edge, and then a slicker to smooth it. That'll clean up the fuzzy edge I see in the final photo.
good tip here - admittedly i rushed the cut and even cleaned it a bit more with some TLC and a sharp xacto
i altered my original plan (Pray that i don't alter any it further) to taper top and bottom so the size difference would be less noticeable (shallower angle on top and bottom).
i can hide the defect a little more by flipping the belt and only the ewoks will notice. side thought - should the plural of ewok also be ewok?
a round/head knife would have been great for this cut but would have added cost.
I use 8 Sam Browne studs on my belts, shows a bit more hardware in photos than the 2 you used. Those are the round headed studs that have a screw-in from the back. Sometimes referred to as Chicago screws. It's $20 per bag of 10 Sam Brownes, though, so it adds up...
You can use 2 more Sam Brownes for the fastener. Put them on one end, then punch a series of holes on the other like belt buckle holes. I did that on my wife's belt.
Another good one - i considered the Sam Brownes (first i came across, actually) but found the variety pack and went with that option.
i like the idea of using a smaller-sized button head stud to fasten - did not consider that even though my pouch closures use exactly this approach. i really wanted to avoid overlaps as seen in all the current offerings on the market (hence requiring that sleeve).
Another option is to make strapping and buckle pairing on those ends. I use Post Screws (flat head on the top, looks like what Nunya used to anchor his over-belt to the wider underbelt). That lets me connect the fastener straps to the main belt. I used nylon strap on my belt.
maybe i understand what you mean - do you have a picture? this gives me the idea of putting a slightly longer flat head stud on both ends, having the thread tied-off on one end and looping around to hold closed. hmmmm....
To finish it off, the rear fastener is hidden on screen by a sleeve that slides over that assembly. You may have to sew, but it could be riveted or even use small post screws. I recommend a reasonably stiff, but not too stiff grade of leather so it holds it's shape and slides more easily. I erred too soft on mine and it's a PITA to slide into position after buckling.
the leather i chose has a nice grippy suede back so it also does not slide on linen at all - i love this feature.
Like Nunya said, these are quick to make. I spend about a day each on mine, including trip to Tandy Leather for materials.
They are a good beginner project. You punch holes, cut with a razer/exacto knife. Maybe stain. The screw-type assembly is easy (as opposed to rivets). If you have one of them pleather belts, you can keep all the hardware and replace it with leather. It'll last your lifetime, unlike the plastic.
for sure a good easy project - not too many tools/work/money required. This can be done with existing pleather belts as well - except the distressing...that will not work.
great feedback!
