Hmm then it is quite possible that the sound board does have an ability to drive the led on its own without a resistor then... Possibly even overdriving the led slightly without blowing it up, much like how a red p4 can be over driven with two AA batteries without any ill effects. You could also be under powering the led as well too..... How long have you been running theses sabers with this kindof setup? have you noticed any excess heat? Also what led types have you been using? Are they all P4's from ultrasabers or have you been using other leds for theses sound boards? what power source have you been using with each of these leds setups? Do you use the same one for each led?
I have run this setup for quite some time now like 6 months or so. I have always used the $25 led modual from ultra for these. I have not notices any excessive heat at all. I also always power them with 4 1.2watt 700mAh Energizer recharge AAA's. I have not noticed any issues with any of them.
u can run multiple type setups off these boards and NO it does not act as an LED driver it works more like pass thru meaning what ever voltage supply u run will be run to the LED. So if u run 3.7V that what will be run to the LED. With 3.7V u dont need a resistor or puck when running single color LED i have not run multicolor setups on a hasbro, but i know from running GB LED with LED AV switch in parralel off board my main blade wasnt as bright as it should be so it is somewhat limited. U can get around this by wiring AV switch pos+ off battery with the neg- going to board. You can use a 7.4V battery pack if that what u have but u need to get a 5V voltage regulator to not fry components on board, if you do this just know that the board will supply 5V to the LED so if running red or amber P4 be careful. U could run a LUX V if done right. I have even wire LED AV switches to the neg- on speaker to give my LED switch a flickering effect to the idle hums and swing effects, so like i say u can really do alot with these boards for the price and u can add recharge ports and accent LED as well
I have never run an AV switch off of one of these boards so I wouldn't know about that, however I have never had any issue with the led being dim as it were so my guess is it was because of the AV switch.
I loved the videos. This has to be hands down the very best how to tutorial I have seen thus far. To keep from burning yourself with a lighter, I have found that some of the older model hair dryers work wonders for shrink tube. If you can find a hobby store that provides supplies for Card Stocking, you can get a nice hand held model that works wonders. Just don't mind the colors as they are usually pink or light purple.
I'm a cook actually so I'm used to being burned and it doesn't really bug me, however that is great advise for anyone who doesn't want to be burned or would rather not be burned.
After watching this video I am really glad I didnt execute the plans for my original summer project which was going to be hasbro Obi econo sound for all my sabers. This is a much better board. Im officially going to use this tutorial for future econo - sound builds
Thanks a million Big Andy!
Hey ur welcome and honestly I prefer the old MR soundboards to these but they are hard to find and aint nearly as inexpensive. On that note however I strongly suggest against using the MR yoda sound card, I used one in this saber in the video and it went out on me which is why I installed this one into it. The yoda soundboard is so small it is very weak and can't take as strong of an impact as these. And of course these are no where as durable as obsidian. However these are way cheaper than obsidian so therefor a good option if you don't have a ton of money.
