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Author Topic: Dry Brushing tutorial to add weathering to a saber  (Read 65234 times)
deevee2
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« Reply #60 on: December 17, 2018, 03:51:57 AM »

I tend to use rattlecan, mostly Krylon
Okay cool - thanks man! Already have a few cans of Krylon from other projects so this works out well.
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DarthBoneTD
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« Reply #61 on: December 17, 2018, 05:20:06 AM »

I too like the "rattle" can. Krylon or Rustolieum both work well, the finish is up to you. Brush on is good for small areas or pieces, but if you're doing the whole hilt go spray for nice even coverage.
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deevee2
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« Reply #62 on: December 17, 2018, 05:27:58 AM »

I too like the "rattle" can. Krylon or Rustolieum both work well, the finish is up to you. Brush on is good for small areas or pieces, but if you're doing the whole hilt go spray for nice even coverage.

Okay cool, that makes sense. I'm going to try light dry brushing for some weathering on my Aeon v4's then figured I needed some kind of clearcoat to hold it all together. Now trying to figure out the best way to hold it for spraying, might craft something really quick out of some spare 2x4's and a wooden dowel held sideways that I can hang the hilt on, then I can take that anywhere and spray it
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Ultrasabers hilt builds:
  Archon 3.1 (RGBW, sound, activation box)
  Spectre (Neopixel, SmoothSwing, sound)
  Aeon LE v5 (RGBW, SmoothSwing, sound)
  Dominix LE v5 (RGBW, SmoothSwing, sound)

Ultrasabers empties:
  Chosen One, Graflex, 2x Dorinians, Savior, Raven, Consular

Hilt builds:
  Custom chassis, 18650 Li-Ion, bass speaker (2-4w), recharge port, 3rd party saber controller

mrg149
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« Reply #63 on: December 17, 2018, 10:08:46 PM »

used a mix of bottle and rattle on my latest project (click below to see album)… dry brushing and washes go a long way to making great effects. The tutorials on these forums are massively helpful and I refer to them constantly…still want to watch someone do a tutorial where they do battle damage…but that's me ;-)
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Darth Jaximus
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« Reply #64 on: August 24, 2019, 05:51:00 PM »

First attempt using this method. Custom Dark Apprentice V4 LE

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Therion Jinn
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« Reply #65 on: August 24, 2019, 07:31:39 PM »

Looks very good there
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Cyclops942
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« Reply #66 on: August 26, 2019, 09:37:58 PM »

Looks very good there
Yeah, what HE said!
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mrg149
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« Reply #67 on: June 13, 2020, 11:23:58 AM »

I have a saber that I am planning to customize and I'm planning on some weathering (who wants a shiny saber anyway?!?) & a leather wrap. I want to use some kind of a wash to give the hilt some "grime" effect. Can anyone give a tip on how to make and use a wash like this?
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“Heeded my words not, did you? "Pass on what you have learned." Strength, mastery, hmm... but weakness, folly, failure, also. Yes, failure, most of all. The greatest teacher, failure is. Luke, we are what they grow beyond. That is the true burden of all masters."
– Yoda


ARSENAL:
*Dominix LE v2 - "Dark Apprentice"
*Dominix LE v3 - "INVICTUS"
*"GUARDIAN" -Ask for Picture (non-US saber)
-Whatever Points-

MVHI JEDI
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« Reply #68 on: September 27, 2020, 07:43:43 PM »

I would think it's enamel paint, the kind you use for model kits or metal parts.  You can find it at any local hobby shop (if they sell model trains, model car or airplane kits, or wargaming miniatures they almost certainly have the paints) or places like Michaels or Hobby Lobby.  As Darth Rifter said, Testors or Model Masters are two common brands.  It comes in little bottles.

I find at least near me, the Testors are cheaper by almost a buck per bottle for the same size, and tend to dilute better.
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