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Author Topic: Obsidian 2.0 with BuckPuck and FoC wire diagram  (Read 73957 times)
Vex
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« on: August 23, 2012, 10:41:37 PM »

I couldn't find a diagram with this set up, so I created one and Deep was kind enough to verify it.


Here are 2 other variants of my diagram with AV switches. One with Buck Puck+ resistor , and one with just resistors . I'm happy I can help!


« Last Edit: November 08, 2012, 02:33:23 AM by Moderator Big Boss » Logged


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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2012, 12:57:29 AM »

Nice setup.  I ran my battery pack directly into the Buck Puck and then simply placed the Buck Puck into the battery of the original diagram.  Everything works fine.  Glad you were able to get this one verified.  Makes life alot simpler for everyone in the future.  Thanks Vex.  Have a point.
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« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2012, 01:53:47 AM »

Thanks for the diagram! Looks nice and easy to follow
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Vex
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« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2012, 10:56:59 AM »

Your welcome , and glad i could help.
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Vex
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« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2012, 03:03:36 PM »

I did use my diagram to hook up my Overlord. It fired up great and all FoC and sound functions are correct! And for a bit of info, I ordered a MLS unit DVA with silver FoC and it came with the wires and connectors for the saber side terminated, I just had to solder in te other ends!
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RIPAnakinSolo
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« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2012, 02:07:22 PM »

So is the FoC connection to the board just another negative connection that is temporarily activated for each flash effect?
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2012, 10:56:52 PM »

So is the FoC connection to the board just another negative connection that is temporarily activated for each flash effect?

You would be correct RAS. 
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viking
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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2012, 04:10:12 AM »

When the FOC contact is temporarily closed, is the main led connection still active or is it switched off when the FOC is active?
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #8 on: October 09, 2012, 11:25:32 AM »

When the FOC contact is temporarily closed, is the main led connection still active or is it switched off when the FOC is active?

Switched off.
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soccerguy19
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« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2012, 06:46:21 PM »

I just finished up wiring my new saber and I couldn't have done it without this diagram! Wiring in the buck puck actually simplifies the wiring... 2 in, 2 out! Thanks a lot for posting this!
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Vex
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« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2012, 11:28:18 PM »

Your very welcome!
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Hayze
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« Reply #11 on: November 07, 2012, 06:09:12 PM »

hi there,

i am going to be building my own saber. i am curious, as to the flash on clash, do you need 2 LEDs? 1 for main color, and the 2nd for the flash? i noticed that they just talk about using a RGB, but all the diagrams that i have come across, show 2 LEDs. could someone please clarify this for me? And if it is 2 LEDs, what is the best way to place them in the saber?
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Master Bluespike74
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As long as there is light, I will be here.


« Reply #12 on: November 07, 2012, 07:19:14 PM »

hi there,

i am going to be building my own saber. i am curious, as to the flash on clash, do you need 2 LEDs? 1 for main color, and the 2nd for the flash? i noticed that they just talk about using a RGB, but all the diagrams that i have come across, show 2 LEDs. could someone please clarify this for me? And if it is 2 LEDs, what is the best way to place them in the saber?


It is a single LED with 4 dies.  One die is Red, one die is Blue, one die is Green, and the forth die is either White or Amber.  Each die has its own + and - pad for wiring.  When you see the diagrams, you are seeing the wiring to the dies, not the LED's.  Also, here is a thread I created showing how I converted an Overlord from Blazing Red Stunt to Guardian Blue with Adegan Silver FOC Obsidian Sound.

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=7466.0
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« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2012, 12:06:33 AM »

Tripped over this doing some research, excellent little piece of information! I think I'll just pin this.... Wink
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Vex
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« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2012, 12:48:22 AM »

Here are 2 other variants of my diagram with AV switches. One with Buck Puck+ resistor , and one with just resistors . I'm happy I can help!

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