Obsidian 2.0 with BuckPuck and FoC wire diagram

[Vex]

I believe so, but not certain.

[spidie2000]

So I've just taken up soldering, this week I have installed Quick Disconnects in almost all of my sabers, no issue so far and I'm getting better at it each time.  I am interested in upgrading some non FoC sabers to be able to use a FoC LED module as I do have some extras that have FoC.  So my question is when I remove my obsidian board it does not seem to want to come out all the way, I don't want to pull too hard and risk damaging it.  They have the top wired in electrical tape which I assume I'd have to remove to access the pins but is there a trick to getting the board out for easier access?

[eerockk]

So I've just taken up soldering, this week I have installed Quick Disconnects in almost all of my sabers, no issue so far and I'm getting better at it each time.  I am interested in upgrading some non FoC sabers to be able to use a FoC LED module as I do have some extras that have FoC.  So my question is when I remove my obsidian board it does not seem to want to come out all the way, I don't want to pull too hard and risk damaging it.  They have the top wired in electrical tape which I assume I'd have to remove to access the pins but is there a trick to getting the board out for easier access?

Yes. Everthing pulled out completely for me after I snipped the switch wires. It's the connections to the switch that are preventing a full removal. To add FoC, it's probably a good idea to remove the switch. Just number the wires to make reconnecting the switch later a breeze.

[spidie2000]

oh man, i was really hoping I could just solder in the 1 wire and run it up through the hilt, not sure if I'm comfortable actually disconnecting the current wiring on the board yet.

[eerockk]

oh man, i was really hoping I could just solder in the 1 wire and run it up through the hilt, not sure if I'm comfortable actually disconnecting the current wiring on the board yet.

If you can reach the pin on the board without removing the switch, definitely save yourself some extra work. Undoing the electrical tape will likely give you the breathing room you need.

[spidie2000]

is there a trick to removing the switches?  When I look down through the hilt at the A/V switches they look to be hot glued in place.  I thought all the switches were just press fit but maybe not A/V ?

[Master Bluespike74]

Avs do have some adhesive but you can still pry them lose.  Tape your hilt to prevent scratching and use a flat screwdriver and pry slowly up. 

[Blackwid0o0w]

Hello,
I don't understand something on this diagram. The Foc led -  doesn't need to come back to the buckpuck?
So i think my wiring diagram is wrong:

[Vex]

The led+ of the buck Puck gets split to the mail led + and FoC led +, the FoC terminal on the board controls the gnd Goin to the FoC led. (the flash is controlled via the FoC terminal).

[Blackwid0o0w]

Thanks for your quick answer. So my diagram is better like that i suppose:

[Racona Nova]

Here is a corrected version of my diagram. This is with Buck Puck, FoC , and an AV switch.

Note that the AV switch does not go through the Buck Puck and has its own resistor.
Awaiting feed back from Emory ,via email, pertaining to a accent led also being driven by Buck Puck, I will post another diagram once I have the info.

This is exactly what I am looking for Thanks a lot, that will make it easy exchanging my guarded switches with blue AV ones and two Dyna-Ohms from LEDsupport (do you mind when I mention the company?) ^^
Does this also apply to the new Obsidian 3.0? Or is there an important difference in wiring?

[Racona Nova]

Sorry, me again...do the blue LEDs on the AV switches have a forward voltage of 2.8V and a forwar current of 20mA? The 2.8V are written onto the switches (so I assume this will be the forward voltage), but I haven't found information about the current - that's the important thing I have to know 'cause the DynaOhms from LEDsupport are available with 20, 25 and 30mA I don't want to take the wrong ones and kill my switch LEDs.

[ilpostino]

Here is a corrected version of my diagram. This is with Buck Puck, FoC , and an AV switch.

Note that the AV switch does not go through the Buck Puck and has its own resistor.
Awaiting feed back from Emory ,via email, pertaining to a accent led also being driven by Buck Puck, I will post another diagram once I have the info.

it looks like I should use this diagram when connecting my first light saber.

Here is the setup:
 
Hilt: Ordinary hilt
Emitter: Shock emitter.
Blade: Ultraedge midgrade blade or UltraEdge Heavy Dueling Blade.
Pommel: Manticore high pommel.
LED: Forum yellow. 
Battery pack: 2x 14500 Li-Ion Battery Holder/Speaker Combo and 700 mA buch puck.
Soundboard: Obsidian USB sound board 3.0.
Buttons: Two anti Vandal Momentary Switch. One red and one blue (sonce they dont have illuminated yellow)

I guess I need a 20 mA transistor for the button as well.

[Racona Nova]

Yes, you will need this diagram and a 20mA resistor (DynaOhm recommended) for your switch. However, I would recommend the 1000mA BuckPuck that you can find on US's homepage as well. Also, it's always good to ask Emory at info@ultrasabers.com if he could sell you a yellow AV switch instead of the red/blue/green ones.

[scraver]

This style of switch is certainly available in amber (yellow), through other sources.