Saber Forum

Hey guys, I need help with wiring a project together. This is going to be practice for a completely custom built saber that I'm going to buy emerald and obsidian guts for, but I'm using a 6 pin buck puck, an illuminated momentary switch, and a white LED. However, I can't find a diagram that doesn't include a sound board.

This is the thread with wiring diagrams:  http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=8667.0

On the Emerald board, I don't think you can buy that from US, UNLESS you have worked out a "deal" with Emory(?)  It's not a product they sell under "Build Your Own Saber".  If you can get one, sweet!  Good luck! :)
 

Without a sound board you can't use a momentary switch. You have to get a latching switch instead.

What power source do you want to use? NiMH rechargeables or Li-Ion setup?

Wiring it without a sound board is not that difficult, you can get the correct wiring from the diagrams above - with some modifications, of course ;) However, I can't tell you exactly how you have to modify it (haven't done a DIY project yet and very little knowledge about electronic stuff)...maybe a DIY expert can help you better :-\

Ok, this may be another stupid question. I have the illuminated latching switch and a 6 pin buck puck. can the buck puck act as a resistor for both the switch and LED?

No, you always need a separate resistor for the switch LED, even with a BuckPuck. The forward voltages and currents of the switch and main LEDs are just too different.

Ok, new question, same topic. I Want to upgrade my stunt saber to have an illuminated switch. I have all the parts, however, I cannot find a wiring schematic that only uses a resistor and no buck puck. Can anyone help?

Hi Kal-El_Kenobi1138, I've done quite a few now, I do things a little different from my first, but this link was my first and may help you a bit http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=22628.msg348595#msg348595

As you can see in one of the pics I just put the main LED resistor in the wires leading to the LED module instead of using a Buckpuck..... I found this wiring diagram helpful, but of course it shows a Buckpuck.....

(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah119/JediXIX/DEC160E5-FFBE-4E17-886A-84614024591A.png_zpsas8bwomu.jpeg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/JediXIX/media/DEC160E5-FFBE-4E17-886A-84614024591A.png_zpsas8bwomu.jpeg.html)

Cheers  :)

so would i just put the switch resistor before the positive end on the switch (between it and the battery)?

For the switch LED resistor, it goes between the V-Out (+) on the m/l board and the (+) terminal for the LED on the switch.....

This is just a stunt saber without sound, so I don't have a sound board and its latching, not momentary.

The board pictured in the diagram isn't a soundboard. It's a board that allows you to use a momentary switch as though it were a latching switch.

Ok.... I've been putting momentary av's into my stunt sabers using a m/l converter..... sorry bout that


I don't have a clear diagram, only some scribbled notes, lol, but..... a latching illuminated av switch has 5 pins, C1, NO1, NC1, LED+, LED-, and the switch LED resistor would go between a wire looped from NO1 to LED+ on the switch, and the main LED resistor would go between a wire from NO1 and the + on the LED module..... hope that helps  :)

I think so. Thank you.

Ok, So if I'm understanding this correctly, this is how it's supposed to look right. with the yellow dots being the soldering points on the switch.

(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag343/levonfuhr/kalswiring_zps2dv77nra.jpg~original) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/levonfuhr/media/kalswiring_zps2dv77nra.jpg.html)

I think your current connection leading from the main LED to the LED (-) of the switch has to go to the NO1 terminal of the switch instead. The resistor for the switch has to be moved between the NO1 and the LED (+) of the switch. And you also need a connection from the negative coming from the battery pack to the LED (-) of the switch. I'm no expert, but I'm quite sure that it should work after you add/change these connections.

I think what you just described actually works with a buck puck, but I'm no expert. It just seems absolutely convoluted

Yeah, it's complicated even with the "simple" stunt setups ;)

Yep Racona, spot on.......  +1 :)


Any chance you could re-do your diagram with those changes Kal-El? Would be great for future reference for others wanting a latching av switch too.....  +1 :)

Here's a diagram I used in a stunt saber build with a latching illuminated av switch and a buckpuck. It's been working great for me so far. Just make sure to heatshrink all exposed connections.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/09/adbd43c9916e0f76e521e70686c2a660.jpg)

Screw it, I'm buying the buck puck from ultrsabers since they have it and the other guys don't

does anyone have a diagram on wiring a stunt saber with a buck puck and a regular latching switch