Saber Forum

I've had a little bit of time playing with some settings with my new Emerald RGBA, and to me the colours that work the best with the Amber diode are greens and of course oranges..... So I've taken a couple of quick comparison photos to show some of the colours best I can....

I played with a 'real' emerald green (to my eye, the US emerald green forum colour has a very similar shade to CG), this setting is G255 A35 (left), and this pic is next to a CG saber (right).. To me, this kind of green shade is closer to Luke's saber in ROTJ....
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah119/JediXIX/36E8F2A0-7ED8-435A-919F-D3CD390F9D52_zpsj5gvlfed.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/JediXIX/media/36E8F2A0-7ED8-435A-919F-D3CD390F9D52_zpsj5gvlfed.jpg.html)

The orange that surprised me just how much I love it is R255 A191 (left).... Its a real 'blood orange' and very bright, would make an awesome sith blade.... This has sealed the deal for me, as in the future I want a dedicated orange saber, and this is by far my favourite orange I've seen so far.... I've taken this pic next to a PO (right), yep the forum dark orange colour, so you can see a comparison....
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah119/JediXIX/6C95CF22-41C9-4031-847E-C3A02D34090F_zpszjejvlxb.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/JediXIX/media/6C95CF22-41C9-4031-847E-C3A02D34090F_zpszjejvlxb.jpg.html)

With a few tests I got similar colours with RGB(W), but I'll continue to play with the RGBA settings and see what other pics I can take to share..... G255 A255 is a nice lime green, didn't have time to get that pic today, some time soon.... I also want to play with yellows later also....

If anyone else wants to post photos of Emerald RGBA colours, please do (Lord Canterbury, that awesome gold blade photo you posted maybe)

cheers  :)

I've really been considering getting a RGBA saber because the yellow to red spectrum is by far my favorite colors for sabers. I'd be interested in seeing what colors people get. My saber in my forum picture is a goldenrod color I got using red, green, and white LEDs.

Nice side x side comparisons.  Lord Canterbury and cstoehr could definitely add some nice RGBA pics as well.  So what does this mean for your possible orange lightsaber?  Another PO one, or a 2ch emerald with G+A?  The orange you made with G255 A191 does look very nice indeed.

Colours are subjective I guess.... with my quick tests, for me, I'm sure i could get similar colours with just the RGB channels, but I'm curious and just wanted to see 'with my own eyes' how the Amber diode adds to the mix..... I remember your goldenrod colour pics, they look awesome, and next time I want to play with yellows and see what comparison photos I can get......


Has to be R+A at least, because that blood orange colour is sooo nice...... I think you could get a similar dark orange with R+G, so maybe that, but at the moment my dedicated orange has to be that 'blood orange'..... for me its really that much more pleasing to my eye than PO or FO.....

Well, speak of the Devil and he shall appear.   ;)

"Gold"

R:  255
G:  255
B:  0
A:  255

That yellow looks amazing! Points for both of you, nice colors comparison.

Pardon me I totally misread, not G+A but yes a R+A 2ch.  That would be quite a unique order with a lovely blade to it.  Now the challenge of which lightsaber to go with it :o

I'm currently enjoying the following settings for my outright Sith DWG:

Blade

R:  255
G:  0
B:  0
A:  0


Pulse

R:  255
G:  0
B:  0
A:  255

Timing - 3 / 3 / 3 /3

FOC

R:  255
G:  255
B:  0
A:  255


PS - Been thinking a lot about what I would eventually get when I order a Graflex CE (the last saber on my absolute Have To Have list).

Wanted to see what you all thought about it.

Not getting a 4 Channel because that Hilt will mostly be for Display and I'm personally not interested in putting a Red or Yellow or whatever color Blade on the Lightsaber handed down to Luke Skywalker.

So I am thinking a 2 Channel with Blue & Silver for the LEDs.

A lot of times - especially before Lucas went back and CG'd the heck out of it, the Graflex blade looked mostly White with a faint Blue glow to it.

So I was thinking something like this would work well (don't have a B + S to mix yet so I am just guessing here):

Blade

B:  204
W:  255

Pulse

B:  102
W:  255

Timing - 3 / 3 / 3 /3

FOC

B:  0
W:  255

That EG looks quite similar to my RGBW Emerald colour...US default was G255 B18 when I received mine.
But I think you mixed the sides up - to me, CG is definitely the left one, and EG the right :D

And that Orange looks really bloody! Very menacing :D You've definitely made the right decision with that RGBA Driver.

I must wait 2 more days for my RGBA setup.  JediXIX, your photo comparisons are great! Nice to see the pics of color experimentation....and, My Lord, that fiery gold is going to be my first tweak!  Points to all!  Thanks for sharing! ;D

Yea, its not easy to get the colour to represent in a photo..... The pic is definitely Emerald RGBA settings on left CG on right..... When I've taken pics of GC on its own it can appear more yellowish, but to my eye its more white-ish or blue-ish, and when I was watching ROTJ the other day i paused and compared Luke's blade to a CG saber and to me there is a difference, cud be just my eyes, haha, or maybe my TV, lol..... I just love the green with more yellow in it either way, and this was my fav setting with RGBA, probably shouldn't call it emerald green, maybe grassy green, lol..... I also got a similar colour in the past with RGB(W) by adding R into the mix, just seems cleaner with RGBA, but thats subjective also I guess..... My Emerald Archon arrived with G255 B10 for emerald green, so i guess US don't have an exact setting for that.....

I see :D Yeah, it's really tough to get an accurate picture of a colour...never thought that there is a more intense shade of green than CG :)

I agree with you JediXIX about the difficulty photographing the colors.  Deep colors like BR, GB, and CG are easy to photograph and look like what my eyes see, but too often colors that are a mixture of color channels just don't look right in my pictures.  Due to the LED brightness, my camera tends to wash out the color no matter what settings I choose.  The background and lighting are important too.  I use the green felt on my pool table as a background for a lot of photos, but for these I found the white walls actual help more to give a better presentation of these particular colors.  A lot of colors in other posts used mostly combinations of R, B, G.  For these as much as possible, I chose combinations that included the Amber channel.

My RGBA Emerald Dark War Glaive with 100% Amber produces a rather standard Yellow Orange color.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Amber%202_zpscatmxdjk.jpg?t=1436199369)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Amber%201_zpsr0wme3og.jpg)

This picture shows a combination of G255 A255 to produce Lime Green.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Lime%20Green%20G255%20A255%202_zpstls3bvsy.jpg?t=1436199577)

One might think that mixing equal parts of Blue and Amber would produce a green color.  In actual fact the combination of B255 A255 produces this Lavender color.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Lavender%20B255A255%202_zpsgl5skchd.jpg?t=1436199841)

The combination of R255 B255 A255 produces this fabulous Pink.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Pink%20R255%20B255%20A255%205_zpswms8ocfz.jpg?t=1436199968)

The combination of G255 B255 A255 produces this Pastel Blue.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Pastel%20Blue%20G255%20B255%20A255%202_zpsoz5fq2vu.jpg?t=1436200035)

The combination of R255 A255 is an alternative to way to produce Pyrestone Orange.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f29/cstoehr/Dark%20War%20Glaive%20Pyrestone%20Orange%20R255%20A255%202_zpsdk7xuuqe.jpg?t=1436200324)

+1 cstoehr..... Excellent pics to represent those colour settings..... they look great against the corner white walls......  :)

I'll second that, great contributions cstoehr.  

+1

I'm quite convinced on an RGBA, maybe one day? It would def be in series with an illuminated AV switch, got to have me my lit AV.  8)

You might consider getting the AV switch always on.  That way it doesn't take away any of the 4 Emerald channels from being used for the blade color.  Just remember to remove the batteries when the saber is not in use or have a recharge port installed.

I have 2 RGBW lightsabers atm, and i got both illuminated AV switch dedicated on 4th channel. I did not knew that i was losing my White dye when doing this.

So if i would have gotten a RGBA and set illuminated av switch on channel 4, it means i would have lost the amber dye right?

I kinda regret not knowing this earlier. Well, i'm glad i have'nt ordered my RGBA yet, i would have been really disappointed not been able to do that gold color!

So the best option if i still want an illuminated av switch would be to get the always on?

Personally - if I HAD to have one, that is the route I would take.

When I got my first US over a year ago, I had to have the illuminated switch.

At this point though - my preference for Emerald is the non-illuminated AV switches.

The light ups are nice to have and I would always do them on a single color saber with sound - but I don't think they are really worth the headache when it comes to the wiring options with Emerald. I prefer to have all 4 channels for the blade and no crazy wiring for an accent piece.

I don't know....the "in-series" with a channel isn't so bad.  I kinda like the flickering or pulsing A/V and when I'm not using that channel, it stays constant.

It depends on how much you want the AV switch on.  Always on is indeed always on when the batteries are in the saber, but it is a significant drain on the battery power.  I think Emory's video said about 2 days to drain the batteries unless you get a recharge port which can then recharge the batteries and keep the always on AV switch illuminated.  With the in-series switch, the AV switch is illuminated only when power is supplied to that Emerald channel.  When the saber is off, the AV switch is off.  Whichever of these options seems preferable to you is the one you should choose.

I configured my Emerald saber (RGBA) with an Orange AV switch and wired in series to the fourth (Amber) channel that way the Orange switch lights up in accordance to how much Amber (orange-ish) I have flowing into the color mix going into the saber.

When I do another Emerald blade, I will put the lighted AV switch in series with whatever color I've chosen that particular switch (personal preference, but It allows the most flexibility with 4 functional channels, and still have an illuminated AV in certain settings.

So the bottom line as you can clearly see - there is no right answer. 

It's completely personal preference so figure out what's important to you on your Saber.  :)

HERE HERE!

Pictures are so tough... can't get mine to look gold, it just keeps looking too yellow (even with the amber cranked up). Guess I just need to fiddle more. I get waaaaay too obsessive with all these color mixes lol. I can never seem to be happy with whatever color I pick and am constantly shifting.

That said, I do really like the RGBA vs RGBW... the amber diode is much more additive in color and warmth, whereas the white diode simply produced an easier to make white for flash on clash, and a lot of easter egg pastels (which I personally don't like in a saber).

Also, as the above posts mentioned, I really wanted an illuminated switch so I decided to just go with always on (since you can't seem to order with the "in series" option anymore). Because of that, I also splurged for a recharge port which quite honestly makes it really easy to keep things charged.