Saber Forum

Greetings to all. I figured I'd start this thread in the customization section as eventually it will be a customization thread. I will post most of my questions in this thread as well.

 Before I start I want to create a sort of bibliography section to share what I've learned, where I learned it and to give credit to those who have helped me weather they know it or not. I'll update it as it grows.

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Links and Posts
 A good start but not necessary is my introduction where I share what led me to be here today.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=25693.0

The information at Reply 76 of this post breaks down the common formula used when describing FoC and Emrald Driver settings in the software.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=17602.0

Thanks to Racona Nova for a lot of things but for pointing me to this thread about recharge ports. Plus it has some wiring diagrams ;)
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=20367.0

This post is basically the post that the one you're reading now has become. Once again Racona Nova is there to share his knowledge.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=26118.0

I did a search for the word chamber as I'd like to make, even if it's the cheapest most generic crystal chamber. When I revisit that again I'll place those links.

 And there's a guy on youtube who makes very informative videos. I learned a lot from watching those a few times.
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I thank all of the OPs and contributors to those posts for sharing their knowledge. Think of the bibliography as a list of functional shout outs. ;)

I've discussed this in a few places so there may be some deja vu when reading but I wanted to organize everything into one thread.

The Story So Far
I have a Dark Initiate LE V4 and I bought it because I was more interested in the electronics. The ultimate goal of any Jedi is to craft your own saber so I was trying to be "cheap" and stay with the cheapest hilt with a windowed emitter.  I also was trying to stay under $500.  But, I really wanted that windowed emitter. And I did want to be able to mix and mach pieces later so I should have made sure the emitter was MHS. So I got that set up knowing it was going to be moved at some point. It was my entry and electronics acquisition.  I tend to lean towards smaller swords but the hilt is a little shorter than I'd like. Definitely a one hander for me.

 But, even though the Initiate is a little smaller and it doesn't have an MHS emitter, I got a feel for the quality of the product and it is amazing. But my plan was to get a saber I could swap parts out with and "make my own" saber. The saber is just so awesome I ended up ordering a stunt Archon V3.

 So my project plan is in steps or phases and in order of importance to me.
1. Get an MHS saber to put the Emerald into. (Shipped)
2. I'm going to have to do some drilling or soldering. I choose soldering as while I have a drill and the bits I really feel that should done with a drill press. I also have a variable watt soldering iron and some small electronics experience. Purely at a hobbyists level.
So I'm going to order a 12mm AV white illuminated switch. I have a 16mm black one now so switching the switch out shouldn't be a hassle. I didn't want a black one on my Archon anyway and someone pointed out that there were 12mm AV switches so I figured I'd go that route. I'm still looking for a decent black 16mm latching switch to go into the DIV4LE.
3. I want to modularize (I don't think that is a word) my wiring as much as possible and get connectors where I can to make the next transplant more plug and play. Another reason I figured I'd skip drilling. I have seen that I may have to drill it out just a tiny bit but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
4. Add a recharge port. It really doesn't seem that hard. Well, that's not fair. Once a fellow member did all of the hard work and figured out where to run the grounds it doesn't seem that hard. The link is in the bibliography and you should go to it and give them points.

I had a nice detailed expansion and some edits all typed out and it's gone. I Didn't realize there was a time limit on editing posts. Sort of make my whole bibliography idea a big waste of time too. Oh well. Live and learn.  I'll just have to post as it goes.

Anyway.

5. Make a Crystal Chamber. A simple one seems simple enough. It's more of the "I made it" aspect that inspires me to do this. It doesn't have to be the greatest. I'll probably should have made this 4 as I'll most likely do it before the port. I have a hard time doing what I call, invasive tings to my more expensive stuff. So I'm not in a big hurry to doing any drilling into the hilt. I'm really hoping I don't have to when I change switches.

6. Obsidian and Emerald ports. Anyone got any info on this or seen this done? I'd appreciate links. I have a crude idea involving some extensions, a dremel and maybe a thinner activation box. I'll probably do this and the recharge at the same time provided I can find the proper extensions. 

Input welcome and encouraged. Tips, tricks and advise appreciated. MTFBWYA

Sorry I can't be much help with info on the emerald/ obsidian installs- but look forward to watching the thread :).   

One thing I can say tho is no need to be nervous about the invasive projects- always
should prepare with research and practice but I found if you jump right in before have chance to doubt/ second guess, then you'll have no choice but to proceed- you'll succeed because you'll have to, will be too late to quit once touched the dremel to the hilt lol!  Sounds crazy I know but it works- its surprising how much you can accomplish when you're locked in.  It's challenging stuff but so rewarding.  Good luck- MTFBWY :). 

I would DEF recommend drill press for drilling whenever possible, combined with some kind of clamps and blocking to hold your hilt- it's tricky working on cylinder as hard as aluminum. 

Oh also- that bibliography still cool-very handy collection of links to good posts- totally deserving of point :).

Thanks for the encouragement Revan.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Thanks again RevanReborn. When I was at The ManLowe Depot last weekend I saw a nifty device for under $50 that turns most Dremels int a small drill press. Looks like it will be great for ports and smaller holes. No sure how it will work out with switch holes though.

 I made sure my Dremel 4000 is compatible and that contraption is on the Christmas list. As well as a cheap drill press. Saw a real nice one with work LED and laser sight for around $125 at one of those places. I felt it was a great deal but I have some feelers out for a cheap used one.

 I may even have access to one and not aware of it. My GFs nephew has TONS of tools and doesn't even know what he has between his baseman, garage, and 3 storage units. He has other stuff as well but its mostly tools. So I have him checking his inventory for me as well. Best part is if he has one, he'll probably just let me use it and store it at my place. I already have his power washer and leaf blower. I've tried to give them back but he's just like, "keep it here. I'll come get it if I need it." I got a 3 tiered suitcase full of drill bits from him for installing Windows on a PC for him once. I'm the tech guy and he's the tool guy so we help each other on things a quite a bit.

A couple of questions/clarifications for those who can answer,
 I'm under the impression that the AV switches US uses are the same 16mm ones that I see everywhere else. Am I correct in this assumption? 
How many pins are on the US AV plug? How many pins are on the guarded latching switch?
I'm under the impression that the guarded switch is 12mm. Is that correct?

I haven't ordered any of my switches yet because I want to know how many pins I will need on the switches. I also want to be prepared for any drilling I may have to do.

I suppose I could just start taking my DILEV4 apart and look but I'm not ready yet. I looked down the tube a few times and see that some things look hot glued in so I'm not going to take it apart until I'm prepared to move the electronics to the Archon V3. A simple transplant and switch switch will probably take me an hour as I try not to rush things. I'm going to figure out what I can set up with connectors and get those ordered so when I do the transplant I can convert as much to be modular as I can.

I tend to research and use references so when I go to do any of that I'll include my reference links.

The AV3 should be here on Thursday. I have Friday off so I'll be up drooling on my new saber pretty late Thursday night. I almost wish, almost, wish it didn't show up till Friday. Mail comes like clockwork at my place and I typically start my day 20-30 minutes before the mail arrives.

Anyway, any info anyone can share about switch sizes and pin counts would be appreciated. I couldn't find concrete info myself.

Hi Antron007 . . . here's some info on switches you may find helpful :
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=24480.msg369046#msg369046

The standard plastic guarded switch in US hilts is approx 11.2mm and has 2 pins, if you want to replace those with a 12mm av you will need to drill out the switch hole with a 12mm bit . . . The 16mm illuminated momentary av switches that US install have 4 pins and are mostly glued in, the 16mm non-illuminated momentary av switches have 2 screw type connectors . . . cheers :)

Thank you JEDIXIX. I really appreciate the info. I'll check that link out later tonight I get more time to read it.  I'll also give you a point then ;)

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The Archon V3 came in a day early just as I was about to leave for work. I took some quick images that I'll share here. I didn't get much time with it at all. Maybe 10 minutes. I was sure to grad it up 2 hand style and give it a quick feel.  Much better 2 handed feel for me that the DILEV4. The DI is a great one hander and light weight. My hands just feel a little "crowded" on it when holding 2 handed.  I only got to hold The AV3 for a second but it felt nice in my hands and did not have that "crowded" feeling.

Pics:
Out of box front of hilt
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cpCTpPqRxsI/Vky4zQ4raQI/AAAAAAAAK90/OR5I8ncCU20/w1173-h660-no/20151118_111050.jpg)

Out of box back of hilt
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--Gsw17WNxew/Vky4zdF62XI/AAAAAAAAK90/0SqA2_5fP-s/w1173-h660-no/20151118_111106.jpg)

Whole saber front. Unlit. Ignore my feet.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ViRZ6IvayxE/Vky4zQoas5I/AAAAAAAAK90/jH4A4e0Fmew/w1173-h660-no/20151118_111129.jpg)

Whole saber lit up in lighted room.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lNib9-Cr96c/Vky4zQLz_fI/AAAAAAAAK90/8q3-wZWZIfU/w1173-h660-no/20151118_111142.jpg)

Whole saber lit up in darkened (TV was still on) room.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Pd52wjBPnI8/Vky4za4mWII/AAAAAAAAK90/Wc0_YMlq1xQ/w1173-h660-no/20151118_111153.jpg)

Only flaw, kind of, maybe. Thing ring at end of blade. Not sure if you can see it in in this picture. (Not to be confused with the ring caused by the emitter.)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WDbqPHYVs4k/Vky4ze5SfjI/AAAAAAAAK90/yDJ3b_uoVLk/w1173-h660-no/20151118_111550.jpg)

Picture of flaw with lighted blade. About 1/4 to 1/2 inch up from the emitter. Not a big deal as most other emitters will swallow it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EA8-Z-EY0Ww/Vky4zQD3uAI/AAAAAAAAK90/plDqcd4unyw/w473-h841-no/20151118_111559.jpg)

And I normally don't do glamour shots but he's one of me half dressed for work. Forewarning. I suck at selfies.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VgsZJNjpaFM/Vky4zXnQt_I/AAAAAAAAK90/P7lAfTXDIhY/w631-h841-no/20151118_111446.jpg)


Busy day at work. I'll give more feedback as soon as I can. I also want to compare the Reg Heavy to the UE Heavy blades and show those pics.

MTFBWYA

Very nice  color choice just seems like a great fit for the hilt. i have to stop looking at peoples new saber's  it's gonna make me want them all  ::)

-Bulvoy. That is a very valid concern.  I didn't go tri green just 1 led and it's still amazing looking. I have to swap blades with my EU heavy and do some color comparisons. Plan on doing that later tonight.

I took a couple of pics of my 2 sabers together. I'll get them posted as well.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

That's awesome, Antron, thanks for posting!  Always good to be able to see how everyone's sabers arrive, and even just for the excitement factor, nothing beats unboxing pics/ vid :).  That's also really good idea about the blade comparison pics- a lot of people, myself included, like seeing them.  They can be super helpful, and also it's just cool/ interesting to be able to see the variations side by side on a particular saber.  Point for you. 

The archon looks sweet- good call on saber! 

Thanks Revan. I though I did this last night but must have forgotten to. I did a fuller review of the Archon V3 that can be found here.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=26182.0

Not a must read in regards to the electronics swap I plan but there are a couple of  side by side images as well very handy info if you want to know more about the Archon V3. It's pic heavy so I figured I'd just post a link as opposed to reposting a bunch of info and images here. I do get into the finer points of the V3 Emitter in relation to blades.

Anyway, The AV3 feels amazing to hold and I won't go on about it because I did elaborate pretty well in my review.

Hope you all enjoy it. MTFBWYA

Hey Gang,
 I received some parts in the mail over the past week or so and I think I'm all set to swap the electronics on my sabers and get my Emerald w/ V4 sound installed into my Archon hilt.

I'll get pictures later but I have some connectors and wire so I can mod the wiring. I'm waiting for a couple of 4 pic connectors that I'm not sure I'll need yet but I may hold off until I get those in. I'll have to take a real good look at wiring now that I actually have the parts.
- 12 mm illuminated AV switch for the Archon
- 16mm Latching switch for the Initiate
- recharge port to be added later. I still need to get the power supply anyway so not a big rush yet.
- heat shrink
- I still need to find some extenders to make an emerald and obsidian ports. I also am not sure where I want to put the ports. Do I want to put the recharge and other ports all in the same area or the recharge in one spot and the E/O ports in another.

I have a dremel that I can use to widen the guarded switch hole out to 12mm but rumor is I'm getting a drill press for Christmas so I'm stalling out on the ports for that.

I also received a different emitter for dueling purposes.  Now that I can put both blade I own in both sabers I'll do some comparison photos as well. I'm interested to see the difference between my Regular CG and the Emerald CG in the different blades. I'll post some pics in the next day or so.

MTFBWYA

Great.  Will look forward to your newest photos and upcoming customizations.   :)

Yeah that's great news that things are starting to arrive/ come together.  Very cool work you've got going on!  I'm going to be getting into the electronics on my next project so I'm looking forward to checking this out :).  I think that's a good call about waiting till after Christmas for drilling, will be infinitely less difficult with a press.  Keep up the good work, MTFBWY. 

Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to getting the Emerald setup into the Archon and working on the additions.

So, I went to get some comparison pictures last night and had an issue.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the EU Heavy and Regular Heavy blades are supposed to have a 1 inch outer diameter. Well, the Reg Heavy I received with my Archon V3 didn't fit into my new emitter. It's just a tiny tad bit too big.

Now I was in the basement and it's colder down there so I'm going to bring them upstairs tonight and try the blade again. Maybe the emitter was just contracted a little due to the cold.

 So, while not really noticeable, my 2 blades are not the same. I know they do some customization to the blades for the Archon V3 emitter so I'm wondering if it's because it's a custom blade so it may be slightly wider? Or is my emitter just too tight?

Has anyone else had any issues with using the blade that came with their AV3 in other emitters. It fits fine in my V4 Initiate.

Anyway I'll try again with the emitter in a warmer climate to see if that may have been the issue.

I did take a bunch of pictures of the wiring inside my DIV4 just so I can examine the setup without stressing the wires too much.

I'll see what happens  tonight, try to get some pics and do an update in the next day or two.

Well, I tried to let things warm up a and see if the blades fit and still no luck. I could probably get it into the emitter but I don't want to force it. I measured the blades and the Reg Heavy I got with my Archon V3 is a little thicker than the EU Heavy I got with my Initiate V4.

The EU is on the left and the Reg is on the right. You'll have to forgive my micrometer. the digital portion seems to be messed up. Probably just needs a new battery. You can see there's just a little difference in diameter.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OagLc6PaQlc/VmIF56U0YKI/AAAAAAAALQM/WV8kgoFUOm0/w305-h542-no/20151202_234923.jpg)  (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PD66bfk_oVg/VmIF5zWxdqI/AAAAAAAALQM/PyqDKy5yW0M/w305-h542-no/20151202_234826.jpg)

Here is a picture of the MHS emitter I got with the current set screw I'm using. (I have a couple of screws I've been experimenting with)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7rJeoxn7VCnFvNrCU1GiCrOty-tKTF3N7_JzQJHcbxY=w1016-h240-no)

Here's a picture of the current setup with the EU Heavy (Since it's the only one that fits right now)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/PaiHkJNNAzvcGyGo5oBQDV0TsTfBgxNfpkqp02rlE4c=w876-h543-no)

So the advice I seek now is, do I sand down the base of the blade a little or sand out the inside of the emitter? I'm still not sure if it has something to do with the blade being special because of the AV3 Emitter which also make me not want to sand it down any. I know the film is custom cut in it so the blade sits on that spire and not catch it. And I don't want to widen the inside of the emitter and make it loose with other blades.  I also am considering buying a new Reg Heavy and hoping it fits but I'm trying to not spend anymore this year.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks. MTFBWYA

Hi.  Unless there is a little aluminum burr inside the emitter do not sand down the inside.  That you can't take back.  I have a blade that is a little thicker than the others.  As I have many sabers it's not a problem to find a fit.  You could try lightly sanding down the blade outside wall.  Just make sure that you don't sand above the emitter rim line.  Let us know how it goes.   :)

EDIT:  On second thought don't do anything to the blade that fits the Archon v3 emitter if it is fitting securely.  I would not use that blade for any other saber.  Dedicate it only for the thin neck since it has a special foil length.  Getting a couple of grab bag blades is a cheaper alternative.  You can request a 32 " if wanted and if there are some in stock.  Usually come in the 36 ".   I have received more HG in either foil than the MG blades, but you do take your chances.

You should hear from other v3 owners and their suggestions.  :)

Thanks for the input D7. Since you mentioned it that I've read a few people mention a blade wiggle in the V3 emitter. I'm wondering if it's a "bad" batch of blades that's just a little too thick.

I am thinking of getting a Gbag blade or 2. I have like $34 worth of   rewards points.

My RH blade is 36" and my UEH is 32". I neglected to select a 32" blade with the AV3 or it wasn't an option. I don't remember.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Hey Antron :).  That emitter is sweet! 

I agree with Dauntless7, if it were me personally I wouldn't sand the inside of emitter out- not only for sake of avoiding loose blades in future but also because it would be needlessly difficult to pull it off all even and nice.  WAY easier/ more practical to get hands on another Reg heavy blade, dedicate it to this emitter, mark the exact depth it sits down inside with tape, and lightly sand that base of blade till fits snugly.  You would probably still even be able to use that blade with other emitters, I doubt that the amount you will end up removing will even be enough to notice looseness in other set ups. 

I've used other guys blades (which are slightly smaller OD) in my ultra sabers and I can't notice any looseness at all, yet they must be significantly smaller because my US blades won't even fit in the other guys sabers.  So I bet you can still use a blade you've sanded for that emitter in others- but I wouldn't sand THAT blade down, just in case fitted for archon, I'd leave that one dedicated for archon and use diff reg heavy.  MTFBWY :). 

Thanks RR. I'm not going to sand that blade and definitely not the emitter. I'm just going to wait a bit and see how Christmas shakes out. I have 2 sabers and 2 blades so I'm happy. It'd be nice to be able to do some side by sides with both blades just to compare the Basic CG with the Emerald CG but I guess that can do that later.

I'll get a grab bag blade or 2 and see what happens. I really don't want to sand the blade and scuff the clear finish as the emitter is windowed. It is one of the other guys emitters so maybe that has something to do with it. If I snag a couple other blades and they don't fit, I won't feel bad about sanding one of them.

The other guys don't seem to offer complete blades and I know I'll mess up the film so until I have spare money and time to practice I'm stuck buying pre-made blades from US. My logic is 1" = 1". I just find it odd that the EU fits fine and the Reggie is about .5mm-1mm thicker. I'm still hoping that it's just a fluke and that maybe the others I end up getting fit.

My main goal is getting my Emerald setup out of my Initiate and into the Archon. These little details aren't that big of a deal I was just under the impression that these things are all supposed to be MHS and yet I keep running into little set backs.

It's good to know that I'm not the only one to have issues with 1" OD US blades in other MHS emitters. It makes me feel a little better on one hand and SUPER angry on the other. The devil is in the details as they say. I'm just sick of him visiting me. ;)

OK It's update time. I dissembled my Archon and removed the electronics. This was just s stunt setup with BuckPuck. I'm going to be putting my Emerald w/ Obsidian V4 into it so I got a 12mm silver AV switch. Removing the guarded switch was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I just put electrical tape around the hole and gently pried it up with a flat head screwdriver. While the switch was never loose by any means, it did come up and out with minimal effort.

The hole for the guarded was just barely too small for my 12mm switch so I had to use my new drill press I received as a Christmas present to widen it about .5mm more. I used a 15/32 bit which is about 11.5mm and the switch fits perfect. It's too wide to thread the switch in but it fits snug in the hole.

I took some pictures and I'll do my best to document them.

Archon hilt with 15/32 hole drilled. That snag at the bottom of the hole was there from the original press fitting.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8AKU8WnU5Z8ZCzEubC0rEij1HkaeufifHfIzU1vvI-jObm9YKtTg7scoY-dxHSatpVCm6sQ76Zr2jxuSLrTkcbFfDSIEWLnUu5YV-g-oN8ggj7QdbSceDiPhXSBqVg-1VNhDKKTKHXBAymbFStdMc1uk2sjQomMQXfoDKYGnUjNLV_aEqysDtYyOeKJDOpfrwyMESeTy7JtUryEjbrM2BI7OQVnviUJ5nL-OV_o6lq-mE3mwiWq0wUbwmcZ9ULCP0V2eO-ARAQIHXAuVZ8esrcBaMnHyUd38glzkxLJsiSBPOh5kzeOSPZekpg9VtMUcahEbGakN1bX681YR5S7ky7VJhTfXdcr8TUcjb4powk3jxVaCaXko_XiuYJP8BtVX88Tp-cIXpbJpXWqyhgttjbr_7nG8mM-3FCa4RlF75eAkiZSUQXlEzYFPEAqWJdAi8Ou9VrcKpAZ9yfYtlboiuGPBtYdj36QjNny3a__Mo20dnElWjCyaudF8VAIrZ_DugpXxmMI3BVlpHOwnqM1vg_ptqE-NZ1qMSC9fBeR-jfQLzDNDJAcfRExbVRt83HG8DBkO=w524-h931-no)

Archon hilt with 12mm AV switch, it will be illuminated white once the wiring's all done. It's not screwed down or anything yet but I put it in to check the fit and see how it looks. It fits nice and flush with the saber. I really like the way it feels. You can see a little bit of the snag at the bottom but it doesn't catch or cut anything. Besides, scars build character.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NeNA7oFle8h9zrokq85pvBtKdxiuDexzlY77l9ArS0XaUq7Hnb6PhFXAfOwH-LrpOydxSMyQO4xaFoVxGzwH2OZE2Wc28CjFcpbTNamatFvEgNGPO8AOG_BipOE-iNeSW0WRPAl-AqD8Ok62s5ILms4uHa-R3bMSHi8APjPs1sUirJfXq3XigYV49r_CWGVQvs0HaQvlWvFhR5CTYf9NgHSj8zsNPh0dmh_7w3dekW3n52jXSuRXPRYf7ggC2lsjTCt7PyR4-4qg3JV5JtsGI58s4xN8r0HcTHQd3QMAfEj4DjmAmSKOsn1wus3T-HFk59xBfeOszSbi9eAvz4gPWcIqvjBViANS6nhOYbcSSOGZxsRmxljOyYh-rnGlK1CIC_iHDlD_5hdZ5rBpkfSjkJkMGT1jAFezl-t0BVAPxMh-527dUrz4hjuvb4LpXoxOA35bruPF31d8gUBMXiZuJAchLfy7RurLDgsJk10JIZoLOMwNU_GwwFf_6nm_Op4VRf0Fta-GMgZC6mUDCKmJHzAfJ9Ugy8LufCagxJ8TZu2lQRwLgFL2GGfjafz3p3Qg7XcC=w524-h931-no)

Here's how it looks with the V3.1 emitter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sG1mVIjsKiEtSUw3qlzEksQiQ16-li0X2VgKU1wguY4KFNAH1bOpSKs1sQw6G_CS-rob6R2eHdKsckMrxZPnvrsGpv5YJl4FtY0rDjl5W3KJxgAHCVpIbZf7EpUjlGt3GBtwE0GPCTk6VxAOagoMMaa9_VDn4bcg3YzahS3flfHxgGgDMCKWSeq3A6jKD8CGWkC2qdqLMT9kMwUqtIman9yh0eS_o2gBGQR67TJw5WrEX97OdrUv3gg77RwHP7zZOr-soD4ly1D1HkM3e8i-8niRf4yNz3O4weioAbVRxXioH7sYN-oQi3yUOPwYlnVhpZ-iD51X6WYvp2zB8Op-L4WOo6BVfYmE6MKpMFqiiDXxbodohtOnBBs6JoPGIp7KK1jxXiz1sK2eqX_R3-0ndaVlaE0FuDdpAE2hz_3xM04fFtQfly0MidumjSmDkbhPjX0m2ixjFgnYPSsE_XLcOSoGOS9i5uIm-p7-2eGxTVii0uxEuW7KgSdID6ubviImDMVqQ_Md4DJcsUJ_lIMcwRcTPi9U6GuLrD0426vWIj_iSPNXjXMOQ9oLm2eWOvgHoCtz=w524-h931-no)

And my Other Guys emitter.
 (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tvGUqGTxY4rZH3A5GPhtFi0VIHbsTK2z8o_txmMvLYnmgF8BRXRIhKfIBjkfk_i7pspoQXeMJst2oQ_ha8bzm9gax5rOw_-Azi99G3P8V442OtIUkR1R_fNuUsx4lnkgJWlE1F6eKo1OtRG_pudXN59WqYR7GyBwHfzEiOVhZl2_sDeC2PPe6n3p7ukPLZZE-dVzick3ulOEmm6kdpBPMPEuYW6YWAx5MZ0V6gG_HBb5vIdGHoGkFrFxW03rHLeo-AwoplcRJ80rrNGM5vrb5dDzR7pWoqRUDrtauxLdDKtoEWF_rC-sXgERgrnETq_rv8xq8J2G7htKtnAv1gDUNf7WnMuoEiOiBOW9dfp2weaL-w6RMVs70sTe5ZCdLYm-_CWyYQ7VQKeyXe_vqrV2BRlOpQhqYrlTeT7W4PRdTI-52jdQ5nP5Mgs9-X_qwKfHGvreTDsTxmuh6181diDI4U9HzFjeZMRgMYqNxWLXN3UJorxxo90JfVg83i83i74FYtXf8pKV91cZXWEReoDyo8qJ_4UMIixXkA7_5cdtzTywWZxxpXV1GZv8DYMzceTAjhtM=w524-h931-no)

I also don't feel there are a lot of good pictures of wiring for the novice and noobies so I'm posting some pics of the wiring setup outside of the saber. It's pretty obvious where things connect in these pictures. Note that I do have Quick Disconnects on the LED. I'll be more than happy to explain the details if anyone should need to ask.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EcCo8KuczIQ-eXfLwEP-MUm1B8tTzgnEAZQb79jj1Q8L0uDAknrNdrjiLQe6fCIHUh3DtDJePdz3VyPXSUP29_UO14zdEnT96o3ScTgD6KQaZ67rcHB7YAeohcxTEvLz8DO7LPmtUEhJn8Ap4pu96JCH5Bb5PouMSqqSwU2k2VFlEfub5mquARYIZlat8jHg6U7I4SPcXh23T0nceM3LIWutJyAuOktIipWi8Z0bIS8tzv5N75cwkk6IbUpsS3kkx-7C8RJkzopnRwi8MEnVs2EdafM5bAjvKYgQmtjJY91a8bw-DQJ6fi50deM-yy3-eo4YrjXXE2Shm4qwQK4XDEz5qY3-TUTeOjk6suLHFJk2VLNTsN4w4seFRz8vrG2_OYvnhh2sh_uXbzLu-xoTk1phJ5M_V0eDZVy_4oc9vQOIyaH3lwFVaq153Pj4tT0wfk7615mhkMx67awgrAZUgcXhCFbiZKzrhnRskPGovWdbxdUR9voJQnptQDZLrEAhzaGPyIUsRRP9tyz2-ScjkZ34OkO5l2F3b1hXxmGg9XTxmBVXlhYpeDuXSyuhyMxTc2lS=w1171-h659-no)

Just a closer view of the same picture. The LED is on the Left and the Battery pack is on the right.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WtQsAtp1OduPQKJ-paUdYIAkrMa1KSz9-qqF0XaZSnjSmST8487TEnY9d_craGZbLr1tENBgErvxB2ju2z7WIbzhcB91O1GcwJvRy9DrYvlPgUYiuNU4Zok6agbzjQ3V6nJbnln3RxFJf0P0LAfKPgkzhyWx3yxsYkc2mIuGgLSB4wtHlM_iU34Q6vGXHQU8XZ6xLvrE8ygPWs2bOwj7NhfIIG3X8c-w4-QV9NXsCDsGKKxEa3oJm-X1TP0YczAFEwjf3DrcZL4DJQzBnmStF65HAiC8VDHbjJ2QOEGoOrNykjiRATN3eP-wT_8pTnUKAQ7DWQPFZVH0hszfzLEhnB91n1du164SBpVVdJCthI3OOlbc-5s6IcNl-gAwGQG5gjaMXqSHy5YY9OciA-wUv0rd6zhkpD1V7kdNl-cD2G6sJ2M8hxuw8fczFmowbW5sXZ3g19wbCZSKw7Eu6kv-LBhqV3Bhhbuf6HktVPWGBnXEnRtdPKNZ4rN7BDrES9OSmfx6YZArjkwB1GUXBv60jclupcX-XOoSz_ak-gX8zbATeFniIJcUdx7n7pfdVKeM0SkS=w1171-h659-no)

I didn't want to unwrap the BuckPuck but if I come across having to, I will post the picture of that. I don't think it will need to be messed with.

The next step will be getting the Emerald w/ V4 sound out on my Dark Initiate LE and into the Archon hilt.
I will definitely be taking detailed photos of that set-up. Especially since I can't seem to find a good one now and it would be a big help so at least the next person who tries to do a swap will have some good pics of the electronics even if they aren't able to read the wiring diagrams.

I'm also selling some of my unopened transformers collection to raise some funds for another saber. Not sure what I want yet but I'm going to try to get something with V4 sound. I'm thinking Guardian or Counselor just because I want to get the "Movie" sabers. My GF has a pretty well established Ebay store so I'm having her list them tomorrow.

Well, thanks for reading. More to come in the next couple of weeks. MTFBWYA.

Nice clean av switch out Antron.  Thanks for the update, info and photos.  This will be helpful for others.   +1   :D

Nicely done Antron, the new switch looks great!  Will be really sharp with white illum.  That's sweet that you got the drill press for Xmas!  Will be SO handy.  And dude, this post is SO helpful to people like me- thanks for taking the time to put this together, will def be referencing it on the projects I'm preping for now.  Point awarded.  Keep up the good work- MTFBWY :). 

Another maybe not so small update.

I have this thread open and I didn't want to repost all of the information in it so I figured I'd link to it and then come back here if you're using this as some sort of guide.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=28099.0

It discusses the wiring on the Emerald w/sound wiring. There's a couple of picks of the wiring there as well. and although it's not resolved at the time of this posting I'm pretty sure it will be as soon as Mr awesomeness JediXIX finishes schooling me in the arts of the wire. I think I'm ready to go but I'm just waiting for one last confirmation from the master.

But, it seems I'll at least have the electronics switch done soon. I'll take pics of both installs as I'm going to put the stunt electronics into the DIV4.

I don't think I posted a link to it in the other thread so here's a link to the thread I found on how to remove the AV switch.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=24897.msg373657#msg373657

Thanks again to all of you for your knowledge, support and kind words.
MTFBWYA

Sweet- that post asking Jed will be helpful to many, especially as it contains that diagram (from a post I must have missed).  Very cool.  Look forward to seeing :). 

Thanks again for the encouraging words. More progress today.

Thanks to JediXIX I have acquired the knowledge I needed to move forward with my project.

                                                          EPISODE IV
                                                          A NEW PLAN
When we last saw our hero he was trying to figure the wiring out before doing anything evasive.
     With the help of wise JediXIX he was able to obtain the knowledge he required to transplant
          and upgrade the electronics from one light saber to another. Although our hero has
              endured several setbacks he is merely days away from obtaining his ultimate
                 goal and join the ranks of those who have assembled the parts to
                    constructed their own custom light saber. Our hero wishes to
                       invite you to read on and  benefit from the knowledge he
                         has acquired as well as maybe learn from his mistakes.

OK. So next we get into the wiring a little bit. If you've read the thread that I linked to in the last post you'll be up to date. But if you haven't the short version is, I've started switching the electronics. I've had a small set back, totally my fault, but we'll get into that as we progress.

First off I gotta say, once I had all of the information confirmed, this really is pretty simple and I'm going to try and lay it out simple for anyone who may want to do this as well.

So my current state is that I have taken the electronics out of hilts. I now have the stunt setup installed into my Dark Initiate LE V4 hilt.
I would have my emerald setup installed into my Archon hilt but, wait for it, I messed up my 12mm switch. The good news is that it affords me the opportunity to point out the value of good practices.

I've mild experience soldering and one habit I never got into was heat shrinking things. However with saber electronics being in metal hilts it's a necessity. So, I had already installed connectors where I wanted on my stunt setup and installed it into my DIV4 hilt, for the most part, more on that later. I had 1 of 2 sets of connectors wired to the switch and I soldered the first connection of the 2nd pair and noticed I had forgot the heat shrink. I had the wire wrapped around the post on the switch good plus everything was tinned. I was heating it back up to remove the wire and add the shrink but I ended up over heating and pulling the post out of the switch.

Picture of the fallen soldier.  You can see the post I pulled out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7ftIZqBCk8gBY1aWkWRdpU0NhHCsnRdatpM789wXK7QDVnDXxh70NzQDosX1kDMymMrmmnrgHnzAbcklOdgHoyOwSUHmZzliK_2OxAEPMeqCVNOcXUpzlAJTgaY69B-wMLpmSoEl7OFenl3mOXRXMb1MLOhfG89fbivV34-s9C3NZzxeTbRvg5H2Cevq16IRLYdpO4moLFLNQOig9eB1g0Fy09xK4yjt9lkOjTSqqVpvBZe-aJ3vdwb2tRn9yDrR3kvgq_297lyLyCTHJ1ReFcQzeORRTxT-wbSptv-PjH__UvYnlDxbQTcGcGzPDJOyCJ0NFHMXb61W3QCZn1wMLpmhw_GFa90myliaUjQ5o9O8mbEQ2l8tjqJyg00q-dHLfu77fpEnG-VBtwsy3ajXiP62uV8653NTRTDKc4XulmK8m8RWYWjvE1NnGZHCuN2LbXKlX36cenjWYZQ0Wvq55sd1ieQfPibRkrq5I-w6wpH4RaFLghPKGHVn1CIZhRyTQgnUqOt-Sqr1-cT-rFoiz6dtvJVOpO8mquqRyANUpGeud1CYO92T0HrNNfoXIwYna6Gf=w1138-h640-no)

Here are the connectors I use. They are just the basic 2 wire JST connectors common among RC hobbyists. I colored one set black with a sharpie.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NLXqfKOi8Kpiw0T55wU2aaRxTj-j_vxh5dXXZAwkI7tx65f028kwJNWojRVPpCa763omFYsycc4pGlhi0FiSjnLmRGKtRphIMPsmHYFUIK9AyI-msrVVQR_CSTuFgo4j_WFjfJvOR_c5Me9m3UtsolMp_O0fI86OAbbvoMBov1ArlsKocb9BzCXFvyY9AFaWb1v2LgPcV2y16u8I6UpKdIENdqCh4fNPSua6oQa3v-xRKQ53BgQc9N0sWS3VHKDnXpbgzi9Eg4z5pFpiNuMguAHs7d6Sg0sYdIapuT6d0BjQ8fxVTHaozh4Q3Bc97xPrafAmIjk-gRNMz8CWnyymhoqKx2Rfrmva59gkbJ8ifgcTjwnVytQw3lelqUm96eVrNm5RoOEbFAQjG0WyDV_mXSA95wkYLz0Agc_JJp3v19PFQQV0eVVgXoBab50-9dvSsypEjvMGvadG0-iAc0fjR7H9Dwe_GeFdL2dl8A2gV18RuXNgPnihVaC0CyOipdAwMotcp3gyIiBsG32g7eevhFkoOAlqw12K16MNm1HWzy8mr2e3TF3VrmoV-CniT0vE-PUT=w1109-h640-no)

Here is a picture of the AV switch on my emerald setup before I cut it out. From left to right the wires are, Purple, Gray (with sharpie again), gray, white. The purple is - and the white is +. Those are the LED wires if I'm not mistaken. I'm told that the gray ones are for the switch functions and it doesn't matter which of the 2 remaining posts on the switch you use but I have not tested this yet. That's for a future update. These are the wires you'll cut to remove the switch which will allow you to get the rest of the electronics out. You'll also probably need to unscrew the LED/heatsink from the LED module and I'll get into that later. Also pretty simple.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BuCf-QYc2GdILzmp9PHtpEUTv1aT1T2pjfaVZyKqTFXxWruwD8eJ8ZhufQKWlYrlU9NKGM6vEq2rT4J2tpYvMgam_yw8P72AxQeogWTwV-CMxCnMIEg2_ynv3qMoRjT-nKzbEH1ihW68CBe04wUMIcdeEGvywq7JrY_nIe_8UntwfjDziVTRLZoRZUG62PVj4ghWT07pIJjle_27JzIirKVqQmgSjitbrNav-CZy5GdIu8YARGh00mBBeFMkFBaaZfvHHeJxoat6xoxOVq5qYfWi3rUytcX8QhPV-NVvhRz6UkRswFZZS0sM9XNYe0toaTSXsJjUz7HgGhiWYI1ffWVRg4E3i5G0jX-b_6t0zozseET5yVP-q4qkMx1gLORRuPdvoZBghXwWF8DemtgxL67i1YkBO59fJGAUMzoRpEIF0mCCLcJjoNygKQHI3LBy9EeZu2Fd0X6HrHTbZ7zQOtV9ACzGgl5ZTZWj-GQBzW_qWtLMzhDRENilRMfMiXehOVsKgECJmvz0yA4OnWd8QBsjVwUyJMxGikfbxkSnuk5GZWw64h-7FygV3LsCH5JJnIaw=w1138-h640-no)

As I mentioned I got the stunt set up into my DIV4. I added quick disconnects to the just to make the transition easier.
Here is a picture of the set up with the connectors added but not put together. The red JST connector at the bottom center is the connector to the switch that I added. The black connector on the bottom right is the quick disconnect for the LED module. The center of the image is the 16mm latching switch I got from ebay. More on that later. And the top is the LED module.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I08GkM92DSTT9ABualotRdwrH0gP6QWzABFL3g56mrEUEXcln0gMvTIEUIlnzT_DWSlaBxT7_eJtyyoxagKdZ-NY7tExT-kFa3taHbnewki9nQwNdV-AHSH0G4IGjnX_35wWLBS1fYoOBqbrLZBdWVkd3zu6MguD3kqMofthMyocyrvIsPwdGOLw1uHuTeyV7jUkjylB6CrujP9dAhf0TlSj4SVwd8I-Wd-KuHvUvG3XQkFEf2RSesc8WmzgR2H0Q3vS0pm0crsktvb3BOw6uA7dAkepVPvanT_c67y4poZp3zYlDGDhbcBiRaU_Q46d0ON_W81_Rq3g4eaiOeaqpfa1EKRjoVjAxfkXddhfq_xtb1FD_EdfXHMAIYQcMUPFfFaDyv-poTB4eHKaeT5aQ24Q9oO0T79ANBZGVz542LNnTc81XS4wbIPYMWeyIh3GcG8iAdzn3LS95ZqVgfy95ItjnG8PKNsrvZ0asjst8Tyncclp5FAU0vn2vMgKQZcz9VmB3CXu4nCP66KWCfokaAPuQm1aIsGSztycUqLk0zb3YoTJlbQHktszCn4Cvz1lICHC=s640-no)

A picture of it together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0VYeRd_wamt2tm1_SlRSSGlmVNj8VMFpKfMAvhUwm9aJ0FnNJ1hElXM8lueNWDBHVGvXqxxL30jaHuoYe0J_Y4yXCpNnsRah7-zGfe6xphtBMT7PmvbWjtiKPhEJ1GiQII7hev_nQsjmhVuKShW6_fjy57eS85C4M6QU8bt4FUjpbV6y1ObaCf4XmebAWnqLuSX1wzgIhendeFcWaol_XdFQf5itRiqyzOE37LZ2RSW6mPqwrL-qO12OrPylX_-jeXQAs988HB8H23cK2RUlYwuiBzhDxs4brT3_xxFSFKx68wyzbIbofpEFJaMOXNKpzrcmWMkQGIdnhD5bqYpJvEI7t3ovi6LivWZlgsFH3MAQAXyYr57KMTD5yB_vPt6BMRNyCd_1D5T37cxllSQGl68ezHwzGXeU3zr7J2XIR8uDHtLCX0ehMFJYeyI_vtzUIfmjK-CLMbqpdOQrOvygEazYeaKj2tGbk84nDf1dkvxP6v44S7HZ1fyF-MtwdWy3oUUR4_QrQVOeySe6x5XTB-4uVToXtt4W97yYCP1GdMKJEpanoCEQNPLgHLG7w0GqgYD5=w1138-h640-no)

I actually have a bit more to post but I'm spent so I will have to make this a 2 parter. I may even wait until I finish up tomorrow evening and just post it all. In either event I will be wrapping up the electronics swap soon. I've had a few snags but nothing major. Then I can decide on another saber w/ v4 sound and start plotting towards the rest of the upgrades/mods I'd like to do while I wait for it as everything I want is out of stock.

Until next we meet, MTFBWYA.

Another helpful post- thanks Antron :).  Point awarded.  I'm mentally gobbling this all up for sure, will be studying this progress. 

OK. I'm going to try to pick up where I left off.

I guess we'll cover the LED modules real quick since it's super simple.

Here is a link to where I found the info.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=24897.msg374383#msg374383

You can unscrew the LEDs and Heat Sinks from the module(s). It's best to lay them with the wires facing up and then us  an allen wrench in the center hole. I'm sorry I don't know the size off of the top of my head but I will post it later in a future update.

Here is a picture of the MHS LED module. You can see the center hole where the allen wrench goes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Maf2fOlqWjNYyTmsPYOOYwXPBJz26Nqpzsr_pH2f2UVsM68lFyJk2CmCB224BYIqkmMVnt56OE9TNBbkKgT-4IEm0pGzCJldQfvkr9IpRiKoa0544LBscEaQPOAlFilg5QjJ0Np-L3wNlwm1TSlDZoPK6W-Ab73kkdajWNeZEUsGz-Cttpm-Pp4ghjIYriXtwl4QO_ssEUbJHGLkRispRnzpFHhj32uA-xWTHuxnPbQLelGU3D9ykBiJ2LVqtSkr8lcf3uftyQ2OncNFnXiLZW6Vy7VMZdPae6N707sxW4VfXPpC2vCNEGP-2rOuD9jxg-cwBr0Xmo7wPxxt9c4upJpC-Rh2SNG-IBaxGVBMXDRGVh_VaQ1CYDsAzHbDxK8rIDhh77q42xmENZRAKC1H6EPqwQbEHwDT6b2B15uThyIOB1NgM6FYvffdqjevLnjjOxVPEyAmv5XdTRLzGp1pF64z4VEASltnr0SfSN9Ef8ZDBSSGRl_Trev0T12oiMNvyEg20mCIzoo4IahsFHAvVlGyGxZ-rkM69qHtvkL1b5R4HBgkn72wcN0kd6OkQt_3-W_j=w1177-h630-no)

And an image of the Emerald RGBW LED removed and ready to be installed into the MHS module.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vVZd0NP7QmM5QrIyf8i5jvaqoy6EQwjJHxBLzh4gr87HSnbG64dq78-dlCxjTXejCnYLrkhRJpiQoMu9fECw27WkT8LhI9DZ89FazT8GoOhPZt43tumdf-KcbQlyHWESDwRpF1wzfDNA1qZht9R_kTdTlcAg3XAW52_gRzvx-u0wQwF3yzp4-EM-5B7mk8xWXcVaBS3g7YZxAW5OLHHALBMxVXUvKFrEIe3FKiK3wJP9UUrYGvbl9ISA--0nfTcD10t037vPNjsWmll5nu62nFA4KSA9dT7Uva3bw-cqHO-VGyp3_BrpwmOnIiZAysjTp6xl6E7MG_dpPRaCEbsXht3B5EuE_wBgooRVV5F8kHxzgplC86p5Dbj3QomQWtveyX1GEfTyvDOT8m1-5o95z3eT5SmVBObBMcQrl4mkjmCmC5jMoR-vrEBtjL0z9lbjGBa7c1RPB5R4lKmrDFN9DW0PRNJht9loDj6Uq1q-C4JZaQpRI5p8Cs03mvwiK78X8-o-ifo8sJKCBbX400JIbIuen5ZivHM8fF81A2hfmgq7OHX_RNkPK1F_TyQS4MdagbSw=w1177-h778-no)

I'll be taking better picture of the Emerald LED wiring as well as of the board wires for my next update.

So I mentioned getting the electrons for the stunt basically done and here is a pick of it wired and lit up.  I also learned a lesson in wire placement. I made the connectors wires on the switch long and the connectors wires in the saber short. So when I do the Emerald I will be doing this the other way and have a longer lead that will pull out of the saber for the switch switch/install.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wDM10WpGbi7EDNidqXxCCNTijDh1xPXiFM23e_wwI1DpDV5hwyQwFqfKRfByihim9pWq1ubTJ66XZRZXbvepJxnEyPP3UYFagsQnT2CVPBhZJy_hUeOVnrCM4TWQFvcyM6TWNxPE5W6V64rV7mBooUMYQjRGWYcST8f1dNa_4VqxhtYROvXu0HJESrjdy72WkoIWn6vV__krqAyHMjIcfJAw0WMrBfOGn5ivD7iTXsqtYYNb_GqCcjqp1-oC3uOm7ck77fY8MeUPIgBHz_zTeCBx7A8BmxMmqCVHodHTn4x8u6PZGbWy74kigQ7SZEy5eiKy0ThuNhaEAPbRJHOVTbISvdyhLd82LApuItn7t4HvRH2TK4A9-qUmRWMgTJrN96IIPGDJHfe2QbVeTW_DEh-FDgVj_pZcjr5nVQ_cBMtRIzd-HhbPcxVGwXSCVaZCpVcAIeJ1HB1c3nSehMp3jLMYHnfS71SBTNp5x0k2xq7-y9f2HXGn10tlYdTrkFFlT8VcX9-IqDfjfZeTc_V3x-5GKMtFmFBt3xNMk90RPdo_ECSSX-7swlK6u5b4CeYiofjk=w1177-h663-no)

And a pick of it installed and lit up into my DEV4.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KG-BkLBbJ7m03Brm9oafxeIa8JYaR1U0iGwf4xSILR39Oj18_UW46SJYU5leJyFH53CvvAcm3dAyeciqXTcnFs8l2NqHtgtzSNvSOPIup3hzYOu-NqjTZvAlJjxM27ZLnl_e2tztpIl_9NWxNYGu6uiW0haZFOcCOBO9o6_wNyH-lsjfzpyFZC3SZNiXItTr5pl4vvUFH0NPZX6RA8wye5lJss-NIN2YS6ywitJ8Kzir06z-T9es2xCxavjN2OdTjJ9GWvBRLXTuo9MhLfdtn8_R9nKDRAWpeCsPP1yO6ebCoyRJFaHCnYPqIrtpqzYqKPwUA0gKz1F7MNvCKVy9m7BW38VjJdBa47Rhc_ejgpsHdE5HsRVC21Jq788FHObFOneIjVfkJ9Grc1mrskTfiqhpr0Kv-kWE9VCw-vu_33cYonNt8DH0F9oVwnMqMyIBiPGFVhvL5ZIZDyTOeuAj_HHol7nb3pH9bCx_YvA28We9geEGUHLuha__ulDfRZQ5NTYAMCgt_BxZlR0kiHQCarTCGb6xSKuNZDN56tekPixzZJ-VyloRc8LJ26-3-HrtBY6r=w1177-h259-no)

Now you may notice the switch looks a little funky and that's because it's too long. I can press it down and it will fit properly with the bezzle on it but there's not enough thread to start the nut on the inside even with the bezzle removed.. Here's 2 more images of it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E61kg1LUM9olhocdnOksm_cqBjzMaVm-3Ew1BXKgqKTKhBJiTDltx_0ZH_sJtIhTQaJHf2iXveWmptjzV9g3AXtLHBTMnPQr4c5598QZQFJJq-o0DimFaF_bhVQb9lhVLbAgd7TgG1HKdgPzFc1Hpaffr8i_C_a9hkqsNx4l4t4WT9DF4N74WBq_aI1LumUfuNHkTJeut_MPH7x5JhfO1XB9sJLkUM7CZqMfsZK4_r3ZMEOtM8_TiUCU4R4msNQYej3RpOlBgpLfikhrAp0QWY46VRxSMyOxneYodTlfR86GRSGnawoWBBeFZI8sTD9PQk3B3Qaj1YpBmlUIsbQJGyezjX_wLPlhzy-hDaZHD2g-TVKyI87CpYm_T7VorEhXuBD6hiZVQMTDJ0Syd0c7VYr6AmwyqSpHdXCtqp_r_JNhN9ZLuBy4npewvzQJPDsdI2EYuo56a7aXSEIbd7SQ4wTU0MrQeR5wrttU6KgDPITcnjQzw1188PJCktN0dE6F-tSgxwpXYYaMRGjqITAdJsqVH4DVFs_zJAMbQRAbd-KaQNaEomz7MzD1BDRzWYJ9E8VN=w1177-h264-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tcErLQpL-xthFelJ2Yx7ppWnhj9TNrtramgM60HwX5hj4fE25veD_UoAGYJA28ChwFc1KfJ86tpYIrrSyxbpMsVnXIQRU2fhlj-wV4Y9K-zTpp7pAPetOvQHO3Z8WnRBRhnO9Frg4omVJPrHp57HW-stp_ACmTtXdUc3KqWoEKPftC9veA5njfAE4pJ3W-8Z1Y8Ax1xlPI76VwsYWkgTWvbry2s_rf6gklolTbvwJYPGyl0VdMpaR_eFchCE8QAnuzkdHxVCfy0eSEnu1aB-oF6IkIfIxzXuzHy_8XqAEujXLajU278ofCKifN5MCrT1We58d1vSlW9mgd_mBzyn5QXqAZ90jobXzW6X6Nph_SCKGo-PpogBnP_j51eFW8xqcm5MBDyyOx98HiD7GZeoEI5hyUWgjC3SpDL2fcYBlBj1tqaLK_DFXmfQykNTdMoPNK6Xks1GBfuJzPYnI0X5C7-asGBHqYXoIinKugAwZXQhe6WyE2FiEfSlp1oqGpm5D3WL7WdpsPLGQl4B7F6YzX3Xi8PEefe9B41FXg_3xbufU3QaaTA8YJO97O25bZh7AbAy=w1177-h348-no)

So it all works and since I added connectors, adding a new switch won't be a hassle. Finding the switch is another story.

So That's what I got done last night and I'm buying a 5/8 bit on my way home for work and I'm going to drill the hole out on the Archon and just use the Black AV switch that was in the DIV4. I eyed it out last night and it doesn't look bad since the grooves alternate from chrome to black in that area anyway. I also can get this done tonight as opposed to ordering another switch.

I will take pictures and post another update tonight or tomorrow once I've completed the switch into the emerald.

And just for the extra techie, here's a picture of my drill press.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MMBCYmH9XN58UFIk6qlwOYJiC8H1CEw-DAepmouuFmCV7m8pk_AoHsKI0rjH4FhyfY0IX8QhRJPXLAAhb1mT7nPdc95xAUbgPWudKsWJRq6XXEjgs9LNRRRuBCRYYQH-MpiMDZv7Rak6bvhHbe0lSrVZ5ckRsxLyDrEIF69tqLJqAPlT4Gbb4SZ8x6Lw6cCpB9FOvms33xNBuRWFiCVmVTi1f3WvKtiAS3_2lJn1vlGVh__ATubg2nrKrpOlUQzWpHOHcWbLE9eMmfovWjvejSA7HdfwcLz5EtRPMlC1jchYgP9kP2iZtEcGxaZry0YBUWxMA9ah8Ls-JaeFPoQdBKeRNrpyh2SAe0mVbC7h_YhtPpoKNKD8GTeXeTguLiYiQP9WcjYexquDTNI7jRSIfsCHmJ5soesa_72vFxsyRdAHIsjTPFZ6SUdI5Ng0uAxkMAyMt0_Bs8gdZhPKEmm6rTKinXiTyeHjMvnyCsFxBwKmgIx8QTgonOexv1YkLq9rDhPTKT_vvCjEEF5swzeArbjSJYp9lr6gSV8AhwM7BvOBUWrwmasT-6ykpIjDekHEpevA=w1170-h860-no)

MTFBWYA

haha "Mr awesomeness" . . . you're getting an extra point for that +1  ;)


Its great you're documenting everything here for others to follow, including mixups (all part of learning my friend, lol) . . . pls go nice and slow with drilling out for the 16mm av . . . a 5/8" bit will work but its a very tight fit in my experience, and its better to use a 16mm drill bit instead . . . there are ways to install these switches, with hot glue, or using a wrap of electrical tape around the threading and press fitting, I find 1 1/4 of tape around the threading works with 16mm, but you may need to try a few times to get it tight . . . that may even work on your other switch in the stunt? . . .

Looking forward to your finished results . . . cheers :)

Thanks. You've saved me from a ton of cursing.

And thanks for the switch tip about the tape. I'll try that tomorrow as..... dun dun dun... I have completed the transplant and everything works as it is supposed to. I am now officially more in tune with the force. I feel it coursing through my veins. It cold be rolling rock but I'm gonna go with the force. I'm beaming with pride right now.

I'll post the pics and finishing steps later but right now all I'm trying to do is drink these beers and marvel in the glory of my efforts.

Oh I am so happy right now!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

dude that's so awesome!  this log is exactly what i love about the forum :).  keep up the great work, and sharing with us- its hard to put in words, but I'm sitting here starting to research/ plan stuff like this, so being able to come along for the ride while you go about your work is just invaluable... not to mention just so cool/ fun!  point coming your way asap :)

As I mentioned I've finished the install of my Emerald setup into my Archon hilt. So guess I'll start from the beginning.

First I had to drill out my switch hole for my 16mm AV switch. I used a 5/8 bit. I forgot to take a picture before I installed everything but I pulled the switch out some to get a pick. It was easy enough. It matched the counter sink hole that was already there and turned out perfect.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JKZjqSobMOIoBboNrQHRAXnzUSuhyj07n2RBwVyZl50HsX8qdXSa2D6VsGRRvAUQtEk_2_cLDJ0oQYpf1hyxSM3hfL7AG3OXWn2ua6stwBHCiOwvumF8QOGH8hbF5t7FIuNCuvjSTuSeolfW-se8REcNJALtCJgspRGlC_aa_aSdm6sBFkvUmsbo5CV8eiGRVWZ8gV-7TM5ZkM7gh_VTgRse4DGfXLzMGRzs9iynvic4u6-lxU3U1eiojfemxza7w1tbihFYK5lr3G4NyJmrT9F_Xl7hIXHIj1rQExCtIok9QfWzUiQdRBp0xBG8fDmXBkasBh0HvZ5caOmWT_c4HM3eKl6lcvS9dS7uqD49YuhdGNWprGxOaF2Rxwd-oWMcxZwpDvlGJ24suKLn64faSb5l3XwwhUWTZbk2Eh5GzLcyEBhTR7tlt-KgLnlSdyMcsN-o0uJprUmzJQTF5VWCm_80umsnD-tYD-0bgo7knUTz7G4CBS1cV1iixGNYRzoGyxanZItF8Ug9XbE3mueAODJa3qWeGVM7MHLczD7wAWL4q-RP33P54xXw_Xr7Xbg-Puvi=w890-h640-no)

Here is a picture of the setup out of the hilt. I hadn't added the connectors for the switch wires yet. For the switch, they are the ones pointing downwards. From left to right is a gray wire I marked with a sharpie, another gray wire, a white (+) and purple (-). The grays go the the switch functions. The LED wires are running up and to the left. They are black, red, blue, brown, green with stripe and green. I'm not positive on what ones are what but I documented where they go on the LED. I'll cover that later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3jwKl3fqBaGtrk66TcykHHU4qF2JQEmVbaC6m_JG7Noias7APaqZKcN3Oyh78Yp2sEm6CmVLhYTXY_ApabwzHGE7qZUU3teTduE2IVEzy4yPG8jWUBv40fgMv92GF-HHerWKx8mjNUyza_J-1mRAlH4ydimfbLwgZl22r0NYfUdSltPlNY9QPXl0UYV6DDV7CTka6cZXYfe8VTmGcRhXxLT_YPavXenNkRz6gv_Ds58v3ltunMyUCSFu59fo6vBdDYUmv84XUeAI2fjbSe_Qu5hKLaCCAuuiiBgEhllbs7fxdCVO9JlZVWTr6CMXgg-LY7JSuyYMg3mletf5KRkRpTEWor7zEc0FprD7mnVYP9Ck14jVcjKW-9qk4yDx8WHf7UZwuWOuJ2I1zmb_SBt0mtoAcKCIvUbRnnj_UBdpmASYtCngXm6tmQSrwCuRlCv4n-gNuCGHOPPHr0SlEcVUWsqN8Ozreq8tn-gQ5iw_4FsSI7fhlD1qc0v_KofAdiaUMOoK0pp7uEED-_Moef7FCtuKrr-AGdVbR5wbffBRc8u7-b2BBGIZTGS5uJPTTJRuhcsz=w1138-h640-no)

Here is the 16mm Illuminated AV switch. The wires clockwise from top are white (LED +), gray (switch function), purple (LED -), Grey I marked (other function wire). Another advantage of using this switch is that it already has the resistor wired in. ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zdOuS1EdPzAsOP38KpeXITUM_CSAXSkYIpYwH16ASyA0skBJ0E_Opg9qh4OSPY023IpT5d7FbeGhil59pbBIBMnP4V-IBoFG1g6pFpwUIs2hBTztRp3KtjOJgdSTqnBHEMBA63N2iYBlZDblcERAhcdEjn-FavCkX35egNSPsT8YeH04z1JtaSZkgKbWGnP10_hW8k7J2I1BDr4NvsQP6nIdZ3izmOqBcq0w48WNzK5xje1wv1zWzBAsyBKDEPL5K0QQkGcPCFETKrOrHkVNJqTbgGvv_HxVuE_rM9cICmZr7_HPjZSG_M380yQetMZz8H_BKvTh8iE26TOyBxG4E_mbtJLro0nePOvOb2O7KEVoyWNOjPdYbEFApinJ_D_Wp982AZoUyPWMiELKCuI7bmnVYVtumGgri89-jPtE9lvF9EvWhf8Msop7CTFhUp9Q6wum_HsHq8rp7hfwS8iYLbOV2pdgwWXPndpPpSeruSRdjQxFIjXL8OeRYXEUyBH6gOsh5Wz1jGFn0AtNviOSiaEjBdf12M4kFY3DKUFKuMfTV9nGajOR8MLGZtXQ5TFnLiu2=w676-h640-no)

Here I have connectors added. For my connectors, where applicable, I naturally use red as positive and black as negative. That's what I did for the LED leads. I matched the gray I marked to the black wire on the switch function set and soldered their mates to the wires coming from the module. I also make my connectors so that I am plugging my removable parts them into a port as opposed to sliding the port over a post. Just my preference I guess. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/htFX-m2lLKhxigewnwy44wgQ_bKXrcrD4pTmaK9-JWOF2X5UZ01uYVjaTfdb1wLr5wcpXmkB5IBma7otdaDncsx6J2L4XJt6KeJ5xN9JXHLiyObmES40l1cNkOyzGjQDnArk_lSHs4j05q1X-iRXus0kNRZ-OhXH2K-HDxYX_SNCAnEKIu7BFfnW1JVuvS1aKtQOLTyLUSFu-bvRT5ysHZc2k7RD6fm4Fpps7XfsqgYCDGCx9HgAJuWsCqYYHmx8sI4mw1iqqjMbfn79ub2rnwDk1dnBqMohcqQSYGepG4lJ29UX50tfrce5yA_cjOnkibq_gSNowBwp9FijYihrUByoAT5SKpBU_HKXoNAOpDk-RRGhT5uEhQyI174xx6ABN9b8f65FpAxyVz1M73rUUnwrkZEoZDLMO3Ga4OwRgfM6UUKvbC2iR0WC-U6XZqt6e5yyBvWwU6a273uDWTplPxQnXuDiKmZDb2RKqeNr_lyEUs19CEnliGzsWsN37RswfhaqrSVkW1MA-EIX1Te08knQdaJBzGa06J2j-Uw0tXs38xkqMJGewO56GozQ029EO4jV=w1212-h428-no)

While we're talking wires I also took a picture of the Emerald RGBW LED. I'm sorry it's not better but you can make out enough to follow it. The LED pad is numbered so that's a bonus. In my image, starting at the top the wires go as follows.
7 red, 6 black, 5 green, 4 green w/ stripe, 3 blue, 2 brown, 1 green, 8 green w/ stripe. Now you might be saying to yourself, "I think he made a mistake, green and green w/ stripe is on there twice." I can explain this a little. As the wires run up to the LED there are resistors added to them before getting to the LED unit. It appears that they split the green and green w/ stripe at the resistors and that's why they appear twice.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9uRhejfmgmGI4BOP3shGOADhkZMiXH6eqVzl45rh0WoOV9oXhjnQzwP1nWKwe_op-TM_QVCaWobq7nkDn1cpIPT5kI71fN2MwFCIeDgigMPz02DO27ZcRxHLQUbYHswlFrIxshIcj8wMT-JSjqDh2Bfvf1Ui-a6Fma4mU5Uxo6mfhu7NDZ8DGqEkJkPCsWcmZhWz3Y2bEm9npKoAFPd791Pc0Pgarc-0x21klPHQ-xw0zGcLtp-j3ZCNB-uVdn8H5d5xVcgDlN5yOaZGnmtFMCm2LniAIN1wA8Bxv7yj6Zeqx_0w1TtYUFsPhUaudbXBLU8ummkkf5NDdGJEYLuPPyNLVhMdcK9mHRzx4xqF_1y3pOKw2bk0TGmXJB0m5_rY7eJHA8eRGY99-yLvqvwNh5GV5a9nD4m1dckzFqtx34clcD9uf7FYPGGL0hmEyOtja-Lv7d_cJb9uT3vEQkYaJT0BvFJl_cTyDcv0vpAibM2_bHO7_zRfacVfYwfmvzh-toR3FlzNfWNtOE1d3ex-bLO-FkRVCKmfYE_mzvFM8NWEkpHqEmJWvLYGzuiOs-ftGoiL=w696-h640-no)

And it powers up and works fine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KeEBcjtoDXy04MUPNAGNgcYjRDO12hsr22-Sai3vx16TCuxkfA1H5xt_7aW8WAFeORahog5zKL8roJehhaLBzItiPW82p8U9bz1fML5tdfI3_xppP1NmE0960VrIuw-FE-2pr_fS-rATo_yNkNvlC-Avij6hDaW-kc0pDNAmgjkH3okDe0kZjbelB2QyoEMciLMnuQ2NzcXPTRvx9HV1GL145L7G-QLIuxKpBgLNqpxx0WFlqozDhYqB99J-M2n-bABrTS3-uwSOANEk3CfLl-bWnpGAv7AnTCUCdOMpJwTa3G54mE_OtmSY11wljWvNr_MljHqvP2mtM_OMKfhvJ8-gl8IqUyCiHdrl4AyCwIdWPoFHf5BePYl-BB9ewstTgc-vZBdTXKyopiZCknJp3w7HFH_DazMGfpZ6frl3DcPYC_bibExFB6SgY2TOh9UbnJ6FV0Na9mkcCQguSGm5z6-rcbPKG9dyNzvq3egwRuShKSWAhq4z9vUGODRyi23JxiO1vvdQyQ-pVFyRPT0wTYmVZgMSbI-SWnHEiJJwUDhb_uTYdpDhk3IPTHbOFz7juTHy=w1168-h640-no)

I want to mention that this set up is really, very, very, tight. There is very little room between the LED and switch as well as very little room between the switch and electronics module. To get this all to fit involved sending LED through the hilt from the back to out of the front and screwing the LED into the module housing. Next I got the connections for the switch through the hole and connected my switch. I then pushed the switch in and push the led into the nose of the saber. I sort of fished the wires back toward the rear as I installed the LED. I then had enough wire to where I could grab the whole set and put a loop in the wires. I then pushed the loop up in with the Electronics module and pushed it in as far as I could go. I the pulled the LED out of the front and fished some of those wires forward. That gave me room to get the rest of the electronics module and pommel installed. Keep in mid that the unit goes in all the way past the threads in the hilt so that's some space you don't actually have inside the hilt. Anyway, I them fed and slowly, loosely twisted the LED back down the front. And this is the result.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J3rzPxcrpA5Dmugf7JHZJVFuAnY8lxmVZP37VU2W6dwE7J-6AgHwPOh7Rz7BiKkwp62aEq7yXnIlotw3mHWnosNAPp09rkkIfmrujbNmKIf5mKFeoolVnnVTZoTYV-8TRZtoXOxPwOwbwC3TCRYVtGaAp3p7bhRdmHzXcjA7uTQG9UkwoUmaK6rzCu-XnxX2-DDzMfDEZnubO5Gaqj5wnOCvoEwvSz1SHW-Oav56KNg3dIK07yLmnU8BKvmyCqBp5o5kKK3_AUJ0unePNAiMbOxeQFwd7qMj1XVw79cKBMgwSfcZsF31dyGgklBldy-E8-dQM4EeKUSjZW5O1EyXFEviVF8ECIaoi1pKNsskl9LeJns11-kJaGyd51MOcKaSYa0RQlfoWhTFWN-up1lHIGqPms__vEN23CudPjrvlCUR6PSR4opQ0ekxKe6KBu7RXlM6EC7XQNDSKt_rJR_66hY7t_uoAPREyQ_M_Gl3M0fusyofDSJozo-P_rx4C4iIw3wMyVbYu2RRh0Biem0vEcvtfOFM3TeZWO3juIAR6f_rnO-VM95agQ_RW-BuLFJCid_B=w1030-h640-no)

And in case you've never seen it before, here's what sense of accomplishment looks like in the dark.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nTyjE1xq44-hOaJYbkhOZJaNXmUBGZ0xqP21bGUxWk4QjlXm29Oh70L4P0lD_fg3Im-JT5AyCB7hBTxyPvMVFuiGurwPA3dTsXDh018x6UCGEdk4xitvayyidA6N36xGyaXzWveHpiVjowwdifdqjjXHtJEEyOU_FK3k25jz2COEwLPIakNwq3Duy-wwnj_8q29r5DYSbonCp5KCPtdXrt1Q7Q8WWNdN7wOyHGLuf1SjJ6FsihaVpPcUJyeCJ3Zcx1cahssFqD8KrNkiF3zSAOD7xtWeQcWy73AQWiW0TvxFiCkc8wnOCw8fSbJ9xqVMI7iyphubKT5tCfvRR577XLS-JflJ1xmdtRf193MNPmgyrRcXg0dFVjb5eUhRVChpdsViHavNcXGVmGqHkojCXA_x5E1imI4PCPnTZFu-GkKcUNfZoweYUATq0bcDWaVyD0KWaWGc4aO0oZgew3R1LivOByRwfEf6t96NtLrje_9_S0WAYZkmLl683XKsY7JjI3JEVjx6TeVY69fCAlWkEZq5pLBSFo2ECfKbMzfc_PiZ0QqiNv-8txrIMEXCJcYx29i5=w982-h640-no)

The batteries are about at 1/2 charge in these pics as I took them recently and have been playing with it last night and today.

Well, I think that's about it. If anyone has any questions that this doesn't answer, feel free to ask and I'll answer if I can.

On a side note. I believe I had mentioned the tip coming off of my EUH blade. I was looking at it and I think I found out why that had happened. (Aside from bashing it pretty darn hard.) As stated before this was a super hard hit and I feel it is a completely acceptable result for the hit it took. I'm guessing most folks when they duel, it's with some sense of style, technique and/or grace. My nephew and I were trying to bash the crap out of each other and I was honestly surprised this didn't happen the first time we had dueled together. This happened on the 4th encounter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oKi_GJMAgPWlFvEZOxNXyLWvHXH6xdF-lwmCqg3HkJWsvaJtd4VW-0jBgnDL37V2tCkMLi3XnLIdj8akXSAgF85Ti4hKCFpwZ2MVQqeFQPH79bXFcashsCBNICoE4YB5jh6H9ac8stiOTqDLcd3HBzLQzCGfb9fEUZoblxwBuSwKNR6Nm1JY3glCwMQ8eV_rxH7xm8oNGtMY8zdCHblf5kFDiP008EZSb6lY_fb9Ruk_SqXsKjkVbK81GoKPNmtovNzJUYOH3yQ6E7Oq4cLklEiCGHxbkxJZD8HQDmM5ngmOD7-OCZwVjKOXu3_iw5MQiwLFNKI6XRiw6BiVBO47HLTx9uQw2TcuZa67e0LDSoKRMqmA5eFg_oMbJqB6sREARF1P2hF3g33FIy4xVDvWPXcy1y_SBeKv48qDnx1JjtS0jB2Cc3G5kFFs173Zw4abyXePR3BaBVTvGW_lt0pcT7s2vYSIxaih5MhiCi_mpkX8h4pwuo35G8mcpuPEgMSPPxUyqOa6B4n0G30oRfBKSVuI8BCdT2-iiY7Tw3wvSNp72LihHjNOEnG4w_-Oabgx8eWB=w1212-h376-no)

This blade has been smacked against wood, metal, my walls (on accident, shh, don't tell the Mrs.) I just want folks to know that even though I'm posting a picture of a damaged blade, it is not intended to make anyone think they are of a poor quality. This blade was/is a beast and I just want to show off the achievement.

So now I'm on to contemplate the next saber purchase and upgrade to this one.

MTFBWYA

Man, great work Antron!! The saber turned out SWEET.  Really like the switch choice.  Thanks for posting all this helpful info :).  Point awarded.  MTFBWY

Thanks. After wrecking my 12mm switch my choice was to order and wait for a new switch or buy a new drill bit the next day so I went with the bit. That was the switch from my DILEV4 so, all I did in the end was really just remove the electronics from the Initiate, add connectors to the switch and squeeze it into the hilt.

Now it's all said and done it wasn't too difficult. I still need to add connectors to my LED though. Once the buzz of this achievement wears off I'll do that and maybe even add the recharge port. I may even already have a charger or 2 already. I'll post those questions when it become relevant.

I actually had another bit of luck today in the realm of accessories. I posted the thread here.
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=28323.0

Thanks again for the points.