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Author Topic: Broke the battery/speaker pack - not a bad thing.  (Read 2564 times)
Gawlron
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« on: February 19, 2012, 02:59:16 PM »

So, I've been tinkering with changing up my saber a bit. While trying to get all the components inside... I broke the speaker lead... and I was like  Shocked but then... I decided, if I can get the speaker right in the pummel I'd have more room (after I shorten some of those wires) to be able to put all the components in.

My problem is the speaker (which is awesome IMO) is too large to slide into the pummel. I was hoping that someone here could provide me the specs to the speaker and/or point me to an online store where I can get a speak that is 1" in diameter. But I need to make sure that the specs are less than or equal. I know that this will affect the sound performance of the saber, but I'll test it out and see first.
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J-saber33
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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2012, 05:42:57 PM »

Unfortunately, the 1.1"/28mm speaker that is widely used in saber building is about as small as it gets. You may be able to find one out there, but I'm afraid that any smaller speaker would be ill-equipped to deal with the amp output of any sound board nicer than an econo board.
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Friendly Neighborhood Machinist
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DarthCooper88
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« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2012, 10:50:18 PM »

Actually I have ran into a similar issue on my prophecy that I added an MR Anakin board to. The speaker & mount wouldnt slide into the new vented pommel piece. I ended up grinding/sanding down the outside of the speaker mount & used a drum sander on a rechargable drill to open up the pommel a bit & it worked great. Also I have used a couple of .91" 2 watt 8 ohm speakers that look just like the ones from TCSS (chrome center ) & have been sourcing them from the model train hobby ( I always get the extra high bass models) & been using them in a couple of projects & dont really notice a difference ( a sound frequency meter would be the only way to check I think) so .... 2 choices, sand & grind what you have, or spend some $$$ & get a smaller speaker from the hobby shop.
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Gawlron
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« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2012, 02:37:05 AM »

Well, I think I may have found a solution - but have to replace the battery pack I broke. I've removed the speaker from battery pack and have wired it back into the Obsidian sound board. One of my LiIon 14500s is damaged and that's why i was getting flickering.

So, now I have that speaker I'll put that near the bottom and battery pack near the top by the LED. Obsidian SB will be sort of over lapping the new battery pack and kind of sitting under the new AV switch I got - but I might not use it... it's kind of a prototyping for me. Here's a pick, you'll have to use your imagination. Tongue

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p-v7zia__AJ120VKNJpkALR7onEEGTxAi-LmZcqhVkFYypisERdniG8DD9Me-EIDrFpDxObe_2KCchG14OMiVkA/WP_000036.jpg?psid=1

As you can see, it's an Archon v2.0 with the main body flipped and nifty little buzzer for my switch (desperatly looking for a switch that would resemble that of Obi-wan's FX Lightsaber from Hassbros).
NOTE: Yes... that is a VCR in the background... no I don't actually use it for video, yes it's in perfect working order, no it's not forsale - it's propping up my monitor.  Cool

I just hope I haven't damaged the soundboard in my excitment ... that's a pretty expensive accident to have. Sad But, I'm not worried. After all, the Force is with me. HA!
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Kaiden Shardsbane
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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2012, 03:02:10 AM »

Umm... I would hesitate to jam the speaker inside the pommel.  Here are a couple reasons.

1.  The twisting would mess up the wires.  Think about how many times you turn the pommel to get it off, and then think about how much give those wires have.  I've actually severed wires by doing something similar to the above motion (except it was the switch).

2.  Squeezing the speaker could cause internal problems with said speaker.  I'm not entirely sure about this, but they're fairly delicate on the inside.  I wouldn't want to accidentally damage it by cramming it into the pommel.

3.  There'd be less room for the echo chamber.  Pommels usually act as echo chambers for the speaker to give the sound that deep resonance we all love.  Putting it into the pommel would shorten that length and mess with sound quality.  Try listening to the difference between the saber with and without the pommel on, and you'll know what I mean.

Just trying to be helpful.
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Master Nero Attoru
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« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2012, 01:58:36 PM »

Umm... I would hesitate to jam the speaker inside the pommel.  Here are a couple reasons.

1.  The twisting would mess up the wires.  Think about how many times you turn the pommel to get it off, and then think about how much give those wires have.  I've actually severed wires by doing something similar to the above motion (except it was the switch).

2.  Squeezing the speaker could cause internal problems with said speaker.  I'm not entirely sure about this, but they're fairly delicate on the inside.  I wouldn't want to accidentally damage it by cramming it into the pommel.

3.  There'd be less room for the echo chamber.  Pommels usually act as echo chambers for the speaker to give the sound that deep resonance we all love.  Putting it into the pommel would shorten that length and mess with sound quality.  Try listening to the difference between the saber with and without the pommel on, and you'll know what I mean.

Just trying to be helpful.

^
This.  All good advice.
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Gawlron
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« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2012, 09:00:33 PM »

Umm... I would hesitate to jam the speaker inside the pommel.  Here are a couple reasons.

1.  The twisting would mess up the wires.  Think about how many times you turn the pommel to get it off, and then think about how much give those wires have.  I've actually severed wires by doing something similar to the above motion (except it was the switch).

2.  Squeezing the speaker could cause internal problems with said speaker.  I'm not entirely sure about this, but they're fairly delicate on the inside.  I wouldn't want to accidentally damage it by cramming it into the pommel.

3.  There'd be less room for the echo chamber.  Pommels usually act as echo chambers for the speaker to give the sound that deep resonance we all love.  Putting it into the pommel would shorten that length and mess with sound quality.  Try listening to the difference between the saber with and without the pommel on, and you'll know what I mean.

Just trying to be helpful.

Agreed, agreed, agreed, and further more - agreed. Tongue

Yeah, I haven't done anything drastic and that's why I like to check with people with more experience. This is still all new to me ... but I just have to customize my saber. And eventually build another. I would love to have a collection of sabers that I built - nuts, I know.
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Master Nero Attoru
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« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2012, 09:02:09 PM »

Agreed, agreed, agreed, and further more - agreed. Tongue

Yeah, I haven't done anything drastic and that's why I like to check with people with more experience. This is still all new to me ... but I just have to customize my saber. And eventually build another. I would love to have a collection of sabers that I built - nuts, I know.

Customization is good!  Really lets you make the saber your own.  Building your saber is also cool, provided you take your time to learn the ins and outs of electronics before giving it a try.
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Mitth_Fisto
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2012, 12:53:45 AM »

I am by no means an electronics guru so take this with a grain of rice, for example I once installed an electric motor backwards and it took me over two weeks to figure out what I had done wrong on a build Roll Eyes

Would it be possible though to pre-twist the disk in the opposite direction that the pomel will twist in putting it on? Of course I realize with this a single time forgetting about the pre-twisting needed would result in it breaking, but just an idea. The second would be are there any rotational linkages that you could use with a speaker? I don't know if a speaker would accept current from either direction but if one can then it is an idea from some electronic models/stuff I've worked on a few years back.
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