This is my method for removing the soundboard from a
Hasbro Clone Wars Obi Wan Kenobi Electronic Lightsaber this is the one that comes with a DVD. After removing the sounboard and sensors you will still have a toy lightsaber that lights up. I don't know if this method will work with the Anakin or Yoda model.
First off I have to say thanks and acknowledge
Darth Eyece. His Obi Wan dissection post was what I was following when I stumbled onto this method. His post is here:
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=1012.0If you take a close look at the the hilt you will notice that the seams do not go all the way to each end, they stop at the emitter and the pommel. The emitter and pommel act as caps to keep the two halves together. Unfortunately Hasbro uses copious amounts of glue to hold these parts in place. I tried cutting the glue by inserting a thin blade between the parts but it will not budge. This is why you have to "break" these toys to get at the innards.
I was following Darth Eyeces guide and had already removed the screws and started cutting the pommel when I noticed that the hilt was flexing. I realized that the seams are not glued together! The pommel and emitter are glued in place but its the screws that keep the rest of the hilt together. So this got me thinking. What if I could cut only half the hilt body away from the glued pommel and emitter? Well thats what i did. I looked closely at the photos Darth Eyece posted and cut just below the emitter and along the pommel seam. I made a cut across half the circumference of the hilt from one seam to the other on both ends. After the ends were free I simply pried off the loose half (it was sticking along the seam opposite that activation box i used a flat head screwdriver to pry).
Just undo one screw holding the sound board it and you have it!
Note that aside from the wall of the hilt there is an internal structure to the plastic. See the 3 "walls" in the picture you have to cut a bit deep at the emitter end. The wiring bundle for the LED PCB is floating at that point so the cutting wheel of my Dremel just pushed it back without severing it. But you want to be careful. If you cut it it will be really hard to splice such short wires.
On the pommel end there is no other support structure but the plastic is thicker.
Simply cut the wires and the board is free, no need to cut out the swing sensor. I left the LEDs (3 LEDs on a PCB) switch and speaker. I left the speaker since it didn't sound good in the first place but you can easily cut out the pommel to remove the speaker and glue the pommel back on.
Now to make the LEDs light up again.
I wasn't sure how the LEDs would like running off the 3 X AAAs that power the Hasbro so I decided to wire it up for 2 X AAA. Hopefully the current form the AAAs won't burn them out. Fortunately the battery compartment of the saber is easily modified to work with just two batteries. The batteries go in with one cell in a lower slot then two cells side by side above the first one. What you need to do is use only the upper two slots. All you need to do is jam some paper or whatever into the lower slot to keep the battery from falling in. Now at the back (inside of the hilt) of the battery compartment you will see a black wire connecting a soldering point from the lower slot to the upper slot, cut it. Now the lower slot is isolated and doesn't do anything. The top two slots already have the + and - on one end (pommel end) in series, So you just have to solder wires to the + and - soldering points on the other end (emitter end). It sounds complicated but once you open it up you can easily figure out what i mean.
To wire up the LEDs:
+ from battery compartment to one of the switch wires
Other switch wire to the Red wire of the LEDs (you will need to add more wire as it is probably too short)
- from battery compartment to Blue, White and Yellow wires from LEDs (just bundle them all together)
Yes I know the switch is momentary so you have to hold it down.
I wasn't planning on trying to salvage the saber so I didn't have a latching switch handy.
You should now have a saber that lights up.
Simply close it up and put the screws back. I put a bead of hot glue over the cuts to make sure that there are no sharp edges that can hurt kids. I also painted the pommel since I scratched and cut it up before I figure out this alternative.
A piece of cardboard is holding down the switch for the picture
It may not have sound but trust me, when a 6 year old hits you with this you will hear a
THWACK! 
As of the sounbaord. I still need some parts before I try putting it onto another saber. See how weak the LED is? (thats a Luxeon Rebel) The board doesn't have enough current to power a proper LED. The speaker is from an old pair of headphones. The sound is much clearer than the original (not distorted) but the volume is low so I will have to find a better one too.
See how tiny it is? Thats a 14500 Li-ion cell its the same size as a AA battery. The white capped cylinder is the clash sensor, the black one is the swing sensor.
ignore the two black cylinders those are bits of shrink tube.
Well thats it. I hope this is of help to someone. I paid full price for the saber so I'm pleased to still have a playable toy after getting the board and sensors.
MTFBWY!
