ilpostino
Knight Lance Corporal
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« Reply #60 on: April 28, 2014, 09:32:11 PM » |
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it looks like I should use this diagram when connecting my first light saber. Here is the setup: *snip* Today I finally started to do the wiring and I have some questions for the diagram above: - Whats the "foc led con" on the diagram? I cant figure out which part that is.
- On the diagram above several wires are to be connecten, ie Main led conn -, LED- (on switch) and LED- on Buck puck. It it ok to connect all of these and solder they togehter?
- How do I know which is C1 and NO1 on the AV switch?
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #61 on: April 29, 2014, 02:08:42 PM » |
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I can only answer questions 2 and 3 so far. 2) Yes, you can solder them together. Just don't forget the resistor on the wire leading to the switch LED+ terminal (best choice are 20mA DynaOhm) to prevent it from burning. 3) Only the switch LED+ and LED- terminals, so it doesn't matter which one of the non-marked sides you use for C1 and NO1. As for question 1), I think you have a + and - on the LED unit that is labelled "FoC" or similar and a + and - for the main LED, but I have neither looked at raw unsoldered LED units nor built these circuits myself by now. Maybe Bluespike has some more information about this. EDIT: This pic indicates that there must be two different terminals for the main LED and the FoC feature
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« Last Edit: April 29, 2014, 02:19:05 PM by Racona Nova »
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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eerockk
Knight of the Obsidian Order
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« Reply #62 on: April 29, 2014, 02:37:53 PM » |
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Today I finally started to do the wiring and I have some questions for the diagram above: - Whats the "foc led con" on the diagram? I cant figure out which part that is.
The FoC LED connection is the second color, or flash color. This shows that one red wire is divided near the MLS and powers both colors, but for FoC to function, the black wires are separate. The main color's returns to the buckpuck while the FoC color's (usually a brown wire in an Ultrasaber) goes to the FoC lead on the Obsidian board. When a flash is activated, the Obsidian tells the FoC circuit to connect instead of the main, and that's why the secondary color shines instead of the main. The lockup just switches the circuit from FoC to main at the speed you set it at in the board settings.
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Bellicose - Prophecy V3 - Overlord - Archon 2.1 - Guardian
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #63 on: April 29, 2014, 02:58:00 PM » |
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Talking about wire colours - do you have a short description on the wire colours in an Ultrasaber? I think this could be interesting for other Ultrasabers DIY projects
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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Vex
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« Reply #64 on: April 29, 2014, 03:12:24 PM » |
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Eerockk and Racona are correct. I should have clarified my diagram, sorry. The FoC Conn. Is the Flash on clash connector for the MLS unit. The NO1 is the normally open terminal and the C1 the the Closed terminal. Basically with with the switch not pressed there should be no continuity between the NO1 and C1. When the switch is pressed or latched there should be continuity between NO1 and C1. The switch you use should be a momentary style for and Obsidian sound saber. You can use a meter to determine the NO1 and C1. For any more answers feel free to post it here or Pm me. I'll be on more frequently now.
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dark side points please
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eerockk
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« Reply #65 on: April 29, 2014, 03:21:41 PM » |
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Eerockk and Racona are correct. I should have clarified my diagram, sorry. The FoC Conn. Is the Flash on clash connector for the MLS unit. The NO1 is the normally open terminal and the C1 the the Closed terminal. Basically with with the switch not pressed there should be no continuity between the NO1 and C1. When the switch is pressed or latched there should be continuity between NO1 and C1. The switch you use should be a momentary style for and Obsidian sound saber. You can use a meter to determine the NO1 and C1. For any more answers feel free to post it here or Pm me. I'll be on more frequently now.
Your diagram is the sole reason why I'm confident answering these questions (and disassembling my Overlord to wait for parts to repair it). Speaking of the switch, there is always a dot marked near the 4 pins. All the switches are the same. I flagged my wires with tape so I know what's what, but I wonder if there's a diagram out there that shows which pin is which in relation to that dot? I scoured but to no avail.
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Bellicose - Prophecy V3 - Overlord - Archon 2.1 - Guardian
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #66 on: April 29, 2014, 03:33:10 PM » |
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I only found some kind of scheme at "the other guys" website...I could send you a PM, if you want. But it doesn't name the C1 and NO1 terminals either
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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eerockk
Knight of the Obsidian Order
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« Reply #67 on: April 29, 2014, 03:38:44 PM » |
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I only found some kind of scheme at "the other guys" website...I could send you a PM, if you want. But it doesn't name the C1 and NO1 terminals either I would just need to know which terminals are the LED terminals in relation to that dot. I think it's #2 (resistored) and #4 counting clockwise from the dot, but I'm not 100% sure.
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Bellicose - Prophecy V3 - Overlord - Archon 2.1 - Guardian
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #68 on: April 29, 2014, 04:08:29 PM » |
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Don't know if that's in line with the forum rules, but here's the image: If it's not allowed, feel free to edit my post or tell me. It's a general scheme, so it should be fine with the rules, but I'm not sure EDIT: Okay, doesn't work...but the LED + terminal is the one on the right and the LED - is on the left when turning the switch so that the dot is at the top right corner.
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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ilpostino
Knight Lance Corporal
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« Reply #69 on: April 29, 2014, 05:27:53 PM » |
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Don't know if that's in line with the forum rules, but here's the image: If it's not allowed, feel free to edit my post or tell me. It's a general scheme, so it should be fine with the rules, but I'm not sure EDIT: Okay, doesn't work...but the LED + terminal is the one on the right and the LED - is on the left when turning the switch so that the dot is at the top right corner. It works. The forum changes the link if you make a link to "the other guys" but if you copy & paste and replaces it you can see the picture. But if I don't have any FoC enabled on my LED (that came preassembled with only + and - wire connected) what do I do with the two wires that where supposed to be connected to the FoC? Do you guys trim all the wires and use quick connectors on everything when you assemble the electronics?
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scraver
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« Reply #70 on: April 29, 2014, 05:50:12 PM » |
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I would solder everything and not use quick disconnects as their 'bulk' would make it harder to fit things together. Just my opinion.
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Guardian with Sound (Emerald) and nickel plated shroud Wish list: Bunch of DIY bits.
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #71 on: April 29, 2014, 05:58:28 PM » |
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Thanks for the hint If your LED doesn't have FoC (I assume you didn't order it intially), then the wires for FoC shown in the diagram simply need not be included in your built. Connectors make sense if you want to swap parts or disassemble your saber without cutting/desoldering/resoldering wires. There are some who have done that, but it's difficult to do in small hilts - the connectors need a bit more space, especially when you want more than one. That's actually the reason why Quick Disconnects for the LED unit aren't offered with all hilts.
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Sig by Master Nero Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald
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eerockk
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« Reply #72 on: April 29, 2014, 06:01:03 PM » |
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It works. The forum changes the link if you make a link to "the other guys" but if you copy & paste and replaces it you can see the picture.
But if I don't have any FoC enabled on my LED (that came preassembled with only + and - wire connected) what do I do with the two wires that where supposed to be connected to the FoC?
Do you guys trim all the wires and use quick connectors on everything when you assemble the electronics?
If you don't have the 2nd color wired in to the LED, just ignore the FoC side of the diagram. The LED won't flash, but the saber still makes the clashes and lockup sounds. I love QDs! I would use the red JSTs as they do fit nicely even in the smaller hilts like the Archon or the Prophecy. That said, I did use the black QDs in both hilts and there was more than enough room in both.
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Bellicose - Prophecy V3 - Overlord - Archon 2.1 - Guardian
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ilpostino
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« Reply #73 on: May 02, 2014, 07:30:49 AM » |
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Last night I took the time to do all the wiring and it works. wooohoooo. I had to connect the two unmarked connectors to soundboard as well.
I should problaby check the LED-wiring on the switch because it doesnt illuninate when the lightsaber is "on".
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eerockk
Knight of the Obsidian Order
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Posts: 3540
TPLA Lx Apprentice - Nova 7
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« Reply #74 on: May 02, 2014, 01:39:13 PM » |
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Last night I took the time to do all the wiring and it works. wooohoooo. I had to connect the two unmarked connectors to soundboard as well.
I should problaby check the LED-wiring on the switch because it doesnt illuninate when the lightsaber is "on".
Excellent!! Question though. Do you have a resistor on the switch LED?
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Bellicose - Prophecy V3 - Overlord - Archon 2.1 - Guardian
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