AV momentary switches in a stunt saber.

[ricochettinman]

If you drilled a slightly larger hole, is it pretty simple to install?

[Genkaku Sho`shyk]

yes... its just a press fit set up.. make the hole just barely big enough. then push that sucker in ... use a 2x4 or, a bench top to push on....

on the other hand.. if the stunts dont have sound boards... they will not stay on when you leg god of the momentary buttons... thus, IF you can find Latching AV switches, .. do they have to light up?

[ricochettinman]

Wait. I thought the stunt sabers had momentary. The other guys sell momentary AV switches that don't have to illuminate such as the gold and silver plated ones. The posts on the bottom are basicly just holes with screws on the bottom. The holes being on the side of course. I'm just wondering if it'd be just as simple as popping the switch on a stunt saber out and wiring two wires to the AV switch. Or is it more complicated than that if I want a illuminated switch?

[ricochettinman]

Sorry for the double post, but I did find some latching AV illuminated switches. The reason I ask this question is because I want my rgb stunt Overlord to have the appeal of a sexier sound capable saber, but not have sound. I really want to do this, I know the extreme basics of wiring electronics. I really don't know much though. If someone could like, walk me through the process step-by-step, it would be very appreciated.

[Schtuperman]

Then you need to get 16mm SHORT LATCHING illuminated switches, as most LATCHING switches are too long to fit in the hilt.   The other guys sell ones that look just like the silver momentary AVs US uses, but they are latching switches and have black bezels with red, blue, or green illuminated rings.  You will have to calculate the proper resistance for the LEDs depending on your battery configuration, and wire them into your saber properly.

[ricochettinman]

Ok, so I should get the short latching switch even if I'm going to get 2 activation boxes? Or will the long ones be alright if I put them in an activation box first? And I am going to have lithium ion set up. How would I wire them all up to illuminate? And if I'm not good at wiring, should I go to radio shack and ask if they can help me wire it all up?

[Schtuperman]

Sorry I did not realize you were using an activation box(es).  If you are using an activation box then you can use the longer latching switches.  You'll have more color options that way too, plus you can stick with silver bezels and make everything match.

If you are going with a two-cell, 7.4 volt Li-ion setup like US uses, you may have enough voltage to wire the RGB switch LEDs in series (not the main switch LED - 4 in series would require more than 7.4 volts).  You will have to add up the forward voltage of the switch LEDs to determine if 7.4 volts is sufficient to fire all three.  You want to have a little bit of overhead to play with.  If its right at 7.4 volts, the LEDs will go out as the batteries discharge because there won't be enough forward voltage.  In this case, you could wire the main switch and one of the others in series, and the remaining two in series.  You will need resistors in this case for which you will have to calculate the appropriate value.  Alternatively, you could wire the LEDs in parallel, but each switch will require its own resistor (you will need to calculate the value based on the source and forward voltage of the specific LED).  This of course means even more wiring & components to fit in your hilt.

[ricochettinman]

Yeah, its the bezeled activation boxes, more or less flush with the saber body. I would just love it if I could have a AV rgb overlord! Does the rgb stunt overlord have 3 or 4 latching switches?

[Schtuperman]

If it is a stunt saber without sound, ALL of the switches are latching.  If you have Obsidian sound, the main switch is momentary, and the RGBs are all latching.

[ricochettinman]

Ok, so what I'll be getting is 2 activation boxes, 4 AV illuminated switches. (Red, Green, Blue, And White), drill and tap set for the activation box mounting. (Since the activation boxes have the proper threading for an AV switch, I'll just install the switches there first) and then after wiring it all together, mount the fully equipped activation boxes to the saber, and I'll be good to go, right?

I will of course need help in wiring the illuminated part of the illuminated switch to my lithium ion setup. Thank you all for your assistance