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Author Topic: Obsidian 1.0 Wiring Diagram  (Read 9296 times)
The_Night
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« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2011, 07:22:59 AM »

like i get wiring it in parrallel, but i just don't get how that keeps the AV light on when the main LED is off. if it's run parrallel to the main LED then wouldn't the feed be cut to the light in the switch when it is cut to the main LED? or was it run off the battery leads with a resistor and something to make it blink?...
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Ultra
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« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2011, 08:51:43 AM »

Ever thought of running the accent led directly from the power source?
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The_Night
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« Reply #17 on: June 16, 2011, 11:49:14 AM »

...now that you mention it  Wink
it seems i have more research to do. to wikipedia it is!
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tiger salamander
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« Reply #18 on: June 16, 2011, 05:32:37 PM »

LED's still need to be current limited by a resistor. By the looks of the diagram there is no power transistor to control constant current so no constant current driver on board.  Not sure why the resistor is omitted unless Vin = Vf of LED.
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Novastar
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« Reply #19 on: June 16, 2011, 08:06:32 PM »

@Darth Turel... precisely, if you run Obsidian with a single Li-Ion cell, you have the option / ability to:

* Run the "main" LED with no resistor if the Vf is ~3.6v or ~3.8v
* Run an indicator LED in similar fashion, directly off of the power source

Matching forward voltages IS obviously pretty important, but that also begs the question that... if someone is ordering the DIY Obsidian setup (so... it's obviously not installed into any kind of saber hilt with no LED included and no battery solution)... they'd better DARN WELL BETTER know what they are doing!

I've "directly driven" Luxeon III, Seoul P4, Luxeon V, indicator LEDs and other similar LEDs in many sabers for 5+ years now.  I can verify--it works just fine.  If there are repercussions for not using resistors because I am aware of the Vf + battery solution, I have not yet ONCE seen them.

Again, this being said... for those who do NOT know what they're doing to play the "matching game" with batteries and LEDs... yes, always, always use a resistor, or some sort of current-controlling driver.

And the BOTTOM LINE is: if you're doing a DIY Obsidian project... EDUCATE YOURSELF on wiring, soldering, LEDs, current/voltage, "forward" voltage and everything else regarding the board PRIOR to wiring things up.
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TheOaf
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« Reply #20 on: June 22, 2011, 02:58:40 AM »

Is there any chance we can get a wiring diagram that shows how to wire a charge port?
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Novastar
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« Reply #21 on: June 22, 2011, 01:30:15 PM »

Ooo, good one!  I forgot about that, d'oh.

Either way, a charge port is essentially "feeding" the batteries with current from your charger.  In other words, think of it like the charger "acting" as the batteries.  In MORE other words... you wire your charge port into the positive and negative lines of the battery.

To have a kill + charge... you'll need to use the third pin of your choice of charge port so that when a plug is inserted... it cuts power to the board.  Depending on your own wiring, you can cut either the + or - line (or both if you have a 4-pin solution!)... but thus far, I think we've traditionally cut the positive [[EDIT]] NEGATIVE line.  I may have DID forget ... lol

So, the short answer is... connect your port to the + and - lines of the battery lines.

EDIT / UPDATE:  I had Ultra add in my own "more simplistic"(?) wiring guide with a pin configuration into the first post... but here it is on its own:

http://www.saberforum.com/Obsidian Wiring2 (Novastar).jpg

Eventually, color-coordinating the wired would be smart too... but--we'll see how it goes.  The pin configuration should make it pretty easy to get it right--even if you're new to wiring.  Smiley
« Last Edit: June 23, 2011, 02:01:24 PM by Master Novastar » Logged

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Machinimax
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« Reply #22 on: June 22, 2011, 04:51:22 PM »

Ooo, good one!  I forgot about that, d'oh.

Either way, a charge port is essentially "feeding" the batteries with current from your charger.  In other words, think of it like the charger "acting" as the batteries.  In MORE other words... you wire your charge port into the positive and negative lines of the battery.

To have a kill + charge... you'll need to use the third pin of your choice of charge port so that when a plug is inserted... it cuts power to the board.  Depending on your own wiring, you can cut either the + or - line (or both if you have a 4-pin solution!)... but thus far, I think we've traditionally positive [[EDIT]] NEGATIVE line.  I may have DID forget ... lol  [[EDITED by Nova to lessen confusion--cut the negative line with your ports, it's more consistent + safer for everyone]]

So, the short answer is... connect your port to the + and - lines of the battery lines.

EDIT / UPDATE:  I had Ultra add in my own "more simplistic"(?) wiring guide with a pin configuration into the first post... but here it is on its own:

http://www.saberforum.com/Obsidian Wiring2 (Novastar).jpg

Eventually, color-coordinating the wired would be smart too... but--we'll see how it goes.  The pin configuration should make it pretty easy to get it right--even if you're new to wiring.  Smiley



Excuse me Novastar but don't you also have to wire the the positive and negative leads of the board to the recharge port as well? I'm getting this from the wiring diagram for recharge ports that Erv' made. Just checking. Thanks!

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/RechargePort.jpg
« Last Edit: June 23, 2011, 02:02:13 PM by Master Novastar » Logged

Caine
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« Reply #23 on: June 22, 2011, 11:05:55 PM »

Yes, just follow that diagram and you will be fine. The wiring diagram posted is to a standard battery pack.
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Novastar
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« Reply #24 on: June 23, 2011, 01:59:55 PM »


Excuse me Novastar but don't you also have to wire the the positive and negative leads of the board to the recharge port as well? I'm getting this from the wiring diagram for recharge ports that Erv' made. Just checking. Thanks!

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/RechargePort.jpg
To clarify, I mention that you need to wire the recharge port into the battery lines.

When you think about it more specifically (sorry, I wasn't THIS specific)... THOSE lines lead right into the board.  The battery lines, that is.  Smiley  So, by default:

* If you wire your charge port's + into the battery's +...
* and you wire your charge port's - into the battery's -...
* GUILT BY ASSOCIATION!!!  Smiley  The charge port is now connected to the board.  Smiley

This is also why you really should / MUST "cut" one of the lines (via the 3-pin setup of a port) to essentially take the board out of the circuit loop when your saber is charging.  That is why you see that Erv shows that you "cut" the negative line when a plug is inserted.

And btw... yup, I got that wrong/reversed in my original post about which line to cut--we tend to cut the NEGATIVE line, not the positive.  Although--again, to be very specific--it really does not matter WHAT line you decide to cut to the board... as long as you DO it.  The reason we all try to do the same thing is... that way if you want to charge someone else's saber--you aren't offering them reverse polarity, etc.  Smiley  Just be consistent with your own wiring.
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Machinimax
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« Reply #25 on: June 23, 2011, 02:21:23 PM »

To clarify, I mention that you need to wire the recharge port into the battery lines.

When you think about it more specifically (sorry, I wasn't THIS specific)... THOSE lines lead right into the board.  The battery lines, that is.  Smiley  So, by default:

* If you wire your charge port's + into the battery's +...
* and you wire your charge port's - into the battery's -...
* GUILT BY ASSOCIATION!!!  Smiley  The charge port is now connected to the board.  Smiley

This is also why you really should / MUST "cut" one of the lines (via the 3-pin setup of a port) to essentially take the board out of the circuit loop when your saber is charging.  That is why you see that Erv shows that you "cut" the negative line when a plug is inserted.

And btw... yup, I got that wrong/reversed in my original post about which line to cut--we tend to cut the NEGATIVE line, not the positive.  Although--again, to be very specific--it really does not matter WHAT line you decide to cut to the board... as long as you DO it.  The reason we all try to do the same thing is... that way if you want to charge someone else's saber--you aren't offering them reverse polarity, etc.  Smiley  Just be consistent with your own wiring.

Ok gotcha. I actually took another look at your wiring diagram video and between this post and that, I see what you're saying. Thank you very much and if I may, I saw your Balance of Power shows and I have to say AWESOME!!!
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GdFuzz
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« Reply #26 on: June 25, 2011, 06:47:12 AM »

After "testing" out the board for the past few days, I'm really impressed...  I plan to order another for my personal saber, which is now running a mr vader board...  It'll be running a p4 white, 4.8 pack, with a 1.5 resistor...    I should be able to get this in the next few weeks, and I'll post a vid after the install...  Like Nova and Caine have said, the wiring diagram isn't hard to follow at all, as long as you've wired a saber before...  Grin    I'm looking forward to the install, and sharing the results afterwards.... 
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Novastar
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« Reply #27 on: June 25, 2011, 03:30:47 PM »

I actually don't want to de-rail this topic too much, but... hmm, you have a 4.8v pack and a P4 white (3.25 - 4v).  If I were you, by my calculations, I wouldn't go quite that strong with the resistor--I'd say you'd only need maybe a 1ohm resistor, or ok, possibly you'd try 1.2ohms in case you thought it might get too hot / etc.

1.5 will work... but, you might consider trying to get the maximum brightness out of the thing.  Smiley
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GdFuzz
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« Reply #28 on: June 25, 2011, 06:47:12 PM »

Thanks for the reply Nova...  I actually just ordered a white rebel from TCSS that is supposed to put out 320 lms.....   Grin  The voltage is just a bit lower than the p4, so I'm gonna go with the 1.5 just to be safe...    Looking forward to putting this diagram to good use next week..     
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darth tratus
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« Reply #29 on: June 28, 2011, 04:45:53 PM »

ultra mentioned it uses a wring harness. does any1 know what kind?
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