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Author Topic: Li-Ion Battery Setup HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (Please Read Me)  (Read 330040 times)
Racona Nova
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« Reply #225 on: March 05, 2016, 09:09:22 PM »

Hey Deep, I've just ordered a Dark Iniate V4.  I'd prefer a lithium-ion battery set-up, but one wasn't offered. (?)

Can that be amended?
Shoot him an e-mail at info@ultrasabers.com, I don't think he will notice that on the forum.
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Sig by Master Nero
Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald

Racona Nova
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There is no good or evil....there's only power!


« Reply #226 on: March 05, 2016, 09:20:15 PM »

Hello everyone, I wanted to ask a quick question regarding batteries. I just recently purchased my first saber from Ultrasabers, and I have to say I'm very satisfied. I got the archon v2.1 with the emerald driver and sound and its amazing. My question is related to the different milliamp outputs on batteries. I recently purchased some extra X2 Power 14500 batteries for my saber from my local batteries plus store and they are 14500 3.7V 850 milliamp batteries. I noticed that the ones that came with my saber are trustfire 14500 3.7V 800 milliamp batteries. Then I noticed that the Ultrasabers website is selling Trustfire 14500 3.7V 900 milliamp batteries. Does the Milliamp output make a difference at all? Can it overload my saber with the more milliamps I have?

The mAh rating just tells you how long the batteries will last until they're empty, I think. So if you got a battery with a lower rating, your battery will last shorter than one with a higher rating. Overloading should not happen - however, if the voltage and current is too high for a specific device, this might cause damage on that device.

I'm a total noob in these things, so please correct me if I'm wrong Wink
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Sig by Master Nero
Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald

Prettyfly4ajedi
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« Reply #227 on: March 05, 2016, 11:00:15 PM »

The mAh rating just tells you how long the batteries will last until they're empty, I think. So if you got a battery with a lower rating, your battery will last shorter than one with a higher rating. Overloading should not happen - however, if the voltage and current is too high for a specific device, this might cause damage on that device.

I'm a total noob in these things, so please correct me if I'm wrong Wink
Alright! I didn't think it was a big deal. As long as the battery type and voltage were the same. I have a mod that I vape with and I have 2 sets of 18650's for it and the ones with the higher milliamp rating produce a faster and hotter vape. My basic set is only 1500 milliamps. My hotter batteries are in the 3000 milliamp rating. So It had me curious as to what difference it would make with the saber's 14500 milliamp rating. Thanks for your reply! ^_^
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ithekro
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« Reply #228 on: March 06, 2016, 06:26:33 PM »

Hey Deep, I've just ordered a Dark Iniate V4.  I'd prefer a lithium-ion battery set-up, but one wasn't offered. (?)

Can that be amended?

Did you order it with an Obsidian LITE (Basic sound option)?  One cannot choose the Li-Ion setup with Basic Sound.  All other options seem to be able to have or require Li-Ion setup, but Basic Sound requires AAA Standard Setup, likely due to a voltage issue with the LITE sound boards.  (or as an incentive to get a better board and battery setup, because sometimes it is marketing).
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UltraSabers Owned:
Archon v3.1 (RGBW v4)
Apprentice v4 (RGBA v4)
Archon v2 (RGBW D)
Dark Apprentice LE v4 (AS)
Sentinel LE v4 (FO)
Dominix LE v4 (unknown)

UltraSaber's Gifted:
Initiate LE v4 (CG) - Upgraded to Obsidian v4
Dark Apprentice LE v4 (BR) - Upgraded to Obsidian v4
Initiate v2 (AB)
Renegade (RGBW v4)
Graflex SE (RGBW v4)
The Dominix v2 (BR)
Dark Prophecy v3 (BR LITE)
Lost Grey (RBGW v4)
Fulcrum (RGBW v4)

Rapine
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« Reply #229 on: March 06, 2016, 06:40:31 PM »

Did you order it with an Obsidian LITE (Basic sound option)?  One cannot choose the Li-Ion setup with Basic Sound.  All other options seem to be able to have or require Li-Ion setup, but Basic Sound requires AAA Standard Setup, likely due to a voltage issue with the LITE sound boards.  (or as an incentive to get a better board and battery setup, because sometimes it is marketing).
Ya, I realized that afterwards, and dropped it.  My first saber is an Emerald with V3 sound.  This time I had to cut it down...raffle...lol

It's okay.  My GF just ordered a lite set-up as well.  I'll just get rechargeable NiMHs.
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Darth Redlok
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« Reply #230 on: March 07, 2016, 02:04:26 AM »

QUESTION:

I have a standard AAA battery set up for my saber.

Can it be upgraded to Li-Ion?
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #231 on: March 07, 2016, 06:55:08 PM »

Yes, it can be upgraded, but only when you don't have the Obsidian Lite sound board. This isn't compatible with the Li-Ion setup.

Also, be so kind and take a look at the forum rules. When you've read through them, post an acknowledgement before making other posts Smiley
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Sig by Master Nero
Phantasm v3 LE (Obs v3) - AB w/ FoC AS---Manticore (Obs v3) - BR w/ FoC AS (QD)---Archon v2.1 (Obs v3) - RGBW Emerald

Gilbert
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« Reply #232 on: March 14, 2016, 03:39:17 AM »

Why are they still offering resistors if the buckpuck is superior?
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Calculon
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« Reply #233 on: March 14, 2016, 04:34:34 AM »

Why are they still offering resistors if the buckpuck is superior?

If youre using less power than the buckpuck actually requires to work, resistors are the only option for protecting LEDs from drawing too much power and fit in tighter spaces where a buckpuck will not. If you get the emerald driver; the board takes care of just about all of that. Learning the ways of the sabersmith so please correct me if im mistaken.
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Racona Nova
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« Reply #234 on: March 14, 2016, 05:40:09 PM »

This and it's just cheaper than the BuckPuck setup - less wires needed, and a resistor is a lot cheaper than a BuckPuck (or any other LED Driver).
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JediApprenticeChris37
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« Reply #235 on: April 07, 2016, 12:27:04 PM »

li-ion battery setup make the colors of the blade brighter
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sabers I own:
Prophecy v3  <---Guardian Blue w/V4 sound
Bellicose <--- Sentinel Yellow V3 sound
Dark Menace <---Guardian Blue  V4 sound
Manticore CE <---Emerald Driver and V4 sound
Consular <--- Adegan silver with Quick disconnects
Electrum Wind <---DVA with V4 sound

wishlist: Dark Prophecy V3

GaleForceEight
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« Reply #236 on: June 22, 2016, 02:53:28 PM »

Alright! I didn't think it was a big deal. As long as the battery type and voltage were the same. I have a mod that I vape with and I have 2 sets of 18650's for it and the ones with the higher milliamp rating produce a faster and hotter vape. My basic set is only 1500 milliamps. My hotter batteries are in the 3000 milliamp rating. So It had me curious as to what difference it would make with the saber's 14500 milliamp rating. Thanks for your reply! ^_^

This is kind of true; but as with all these things they are rarely all cut and dried and there are a few variables at play such as internal resistance and the technology within the battery itself. 14500 or 18650 is more of a physical design parameter than a chemical construct specification, so there are a number of different Li-Ion battery variants around that all conform to the '14500' or '18650' size but have different internal characteristics. Your 'hotter' batteries may have either a different internal chemistry or different internal resistance than your 'cooler' ones. LiFe are a lithium battery that has a lower operating capacity and operating voltage range, but are currently the 'safest' lithium based cell out there in terms of thermal runaway during charging - and 1500mAH seems low for a cell of 18650 specs - so it may well be that the chemistry in your cells is different and the performance difference is down to the operating voltage of the cell.

There are in fact different types of Li-Ion batteries; what most people see as a 'Li-Ion' battery is a Lithium-Cobalt matrix. This is relatively sensitive to over-charging and over-discharging, and therefore is often equipped with an in built circuit to protect it from both conditions.

Other common types of li-ion cells are the types made with Manganese or with Iron which demonstrate slightly different properties.

For example the Manganese compound will cope with higher discharge rates than the ones we mostly use, and have a less dense power storage matrix (so you are trading increased load bearing and safety margins for longevity). As they are more robust (less likely to go into thermal runaway) they often lack the protection the regular cells most often have and it is still worth saying that they are not explosion proof and need the same caution when charging as regular Lithium Cobalt cells.

A hybrid Manganese Cobalt cell offers the best of both worlds described above but it is not mainstream at this time due to expense, but as it is more broadly adopted, it will probably supercede them unless something far better comes along first and steals the market share... Watch this space!

The Lithium-Iron based cells hold less charge capacity, and operate at a slightly lower voltage but are far safer in terms of overcharging. So be careful with compatibility as all things in Lithium batteries are most certainly not equal!

There are more types out there, but those are the most common ones currently 'in play' today.

One Note to finish with: If you are looking to get spare Lithium Ion batteries for your sabre BEWARE. Get reputable batteries from a reputable source. The maximum energy density for the common Li-Ion batteries does not allow for the mAH numbers quoted on most of the 14500 cells advertised for sale on eBay and you will be lucky to get 1/4 of the quoted amount of power storage than the "2500 mAH" or suchlike cells advertised on many of eBay's offerings. What they are suggesting is impossible to fit in the size of cell with the materials technology, so treat them with a bucket of salt; and in my opinion false advertising is an indication of dishonesty - what else are they not being honest with? They are advertised with a protection circuit? They lied about one thing, what about the other? Can you trust them not to set your house on fire?

On a far better note.... the XTAR cells that arrived in my Manticore cycle at just over 850mAH in a cell quoted as 800mAH - which is a believable amount of power where the reality exceeds the advertising.




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Lord Sidious
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« Reply #237 on: June 25, 2016, 11:40:22 PM »

I have two different brands of 14500 that came in my Ultrasabers: one is XStar and the other is Trustfire. Can we use either brands interchangeably for any Ultrasaber running on Lithium-ion? Just wanted to know as I am thinking of getting spares.
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GaleForceEight
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« Reply #238 on: June 25, 2016, 11:53:54 PM »

I have two different brands of 14500 that came in my Ultrasabers: one is XStar and the other is Trustfire. Can we use either brands interchangeably for any Ultrasaber running on Lithium-ion? Just wanted to know as I am thinking of getting spares.

Generally for equipment that uses batteries in pairs  I keep the same pair of cells together - use them together, charge them together, etc etc. because they DO degrade over time and with use, so at the end of their useful life they are disposed of together!

Ultrasabers used to use trustfires, but it looks as though they have switched to the xtar brand (which given that they sell xtar chargers is probably a good thing). I read a fair number of reviews that were less than complimentary about the consistency and reliability of trustfire cells, so that may have been the nudge that moved Ultrasabers to a more reliable battery provider. What I would tend to shy away from is using mismatched pairs (say 1 trustfire and 1 xtar in a saber). Although it is possible for the cells to be matched it is unlikely, and it is generally good working practice to never mix battery types or even ages! So use the trustfires or Xtars - they are both protected LiCo cells - but avoid using one of each in a saber!
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Lord Sidious
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« Reply #239 on: June 26, 2016, 12:43:13 AM »

Thanks, it was always my intention to use the same brand in pairs. I think my Trustfire pair in my Mantis need to be replaced. I erroneously assumed something was wrong with its illuminated AV switch but am now certain its the Lithium-ion pair that needs replacement.
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