Stunt Saber Turned off

[Joshualee9871]

So yesterday, I clicked on the switch to turn my new (3 weeks old) Stunt Aeon V4 in Tri-Silver. It lit up, then kinda faded out. I assumed it was the batteries. I did a mod suggested in another thread about replacing the 4xAAA with a rechargeable phone power bank. It has worked great, and gives me much longer use. However, I charged the battery overnight, plugged it in, and... nothing. I've looked around inside it and nothing seems to be detached. I felt around my battery connection and everything is in working order. I've checked the battery pack I use and it is working fine.
I ordered a Phantasm V4 just 3 weeks ago. And the other side of it is already sent to Ultrasabers and I am paying for an out of warranty repair (a wire broke off the resistor). And now just a week later the other one goes out with no visible sign why? Anyone got any diagnosis? I can't help but be a little disappointed even though I knowingly voided the warranty with my mod.

[Joshualee9871]

So yesterday, I clicked on the switch to turn my new (3 weeks old) Stunt Aeon V4 in Tri-Silver. It lit up, then kinda faded out. I assumed it was the batteries. I did a mod suggested in another thread about replacing the 4xAAA with a rechargeable phone power bank. It has worked great, and gives me much longer use. However, I charged the battery overnight, plugged it in, and... nothing. I've looked around inside it and nothing seems to be detached. I felt around my battery connection and everything is in working order. I've checked the battery pack I use and it is working fine.
I ordered a Phantasm V4 just 3 weeks ago. And the other side of it is already sent to Ultrasabers and I am paying for an out of warranty repair (a wire broke off the resistor). And now just a week later the other one goes out with no visible sign why? Anyone got any diagnosis? I can't help but be a little disappointed even though I knowingly voided the warranty with my mod.

Never mind I found it. Another connection that wasn't beat shrinked over the connection. The heat shrink was on the wire further up than the connection and this connection worked itself free. I'm a little less than thrilled with the prospect of paying ANOTHER 45$ between shipping and repair costs to have this fixed again in 2/2 sabers i have bought. With all the hot glue in there it kinda takes away the viability of doing any fixing myself though 😡. Is my only option to send in another saber for an out of warranty repair?

[Racona Nova]

You did that mod on both sabers? The issue you described with your other saber doesn't sound like an out-of-warranty issue to me and you're still in the 1-year warranty period - unless you also replaced the battery pack on that other half. So I don't really understand why you would be charged with repair costs - if that saber was unmodded.

Do you have a picture where we can see the heat shrink issue? Maybe you can fix that yourself after all, with a little bit of help and instruction

[Joshualee9871]

Yes. I modded both sabers with the battery pack which puts them out of warranty.
Unfortunately it wasn't the battery pack that caused issues, it was the wiring.

Now that the wires completely snapped off it's hard to see but you can kinda see it in the last photo.

Basically

Wire is represent by -
Where they are connected will be represented as /
Heat shrink will be shown underneath with .

------///------
  .......

It didn't fully cover or protect the joint which led it to being able to bend to much and snap off.


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[Racona Nova]

I see. It's really difficult to get there. Your only option when not sending it to US is removing the switch (carefully heat the glue with a fan and pry it out with a screwdriver) and LED module and rewire it yourself. It's not difficult to repair it, but you would need to remove all the electronics.

[Joshualee9871]

I see. It's really difficult to get there. Your only option when not sending it to US is removing the switch (carefully heat the glue with a fan and pry it out with a screwdriver) and LED module and rewire it yourself. It's not difficult to repair it, but you would need to remove all the electronics.

How does one get the switch to stay back in or get things inside the hilt after that?

[Joshualee9871]

So.... I think I should be able to pry out the switch, and actually get to that wire by getting it through the switch hole without rewiring the led. So just heat the glue, pry out the switch and pull some wires through there


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[scifidude79]

How does one get the switch to stay back in or get things inside the hilt after that?

Heat up the switch area of the hilt with a hair dryer or heat gun.  (wear gloves, obviously)  No more than 20 seconds at a time, as you only want to soften the glue, not melt it.  Between heat applications, try pulling the switch out.  Once it comes out, put the hilt down with the switch hole facing down to keep the glue in place.  Do your electronics work.  Then heat the glue up again to put the switch back in.  Again, have it sit switch down until the glue cools and hardens.

Alternative: After you take the electronics out, heat up the glue until it runs out of the hilt.  To put the switch back in, wrap electrical tape around the threads so that it becomes a press fit switch.  I've read that it will hold up even in heavy dueling when you do this.

[Joshualee9871]

Thank you!! The first solution sounds the most viable and easy haha. I'll see how it goes


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[scifidude79]

Thank you!! The first solution sounds the most viable and easy haha. I'll see how it goes

 Indeed.  You may as well use the glue the fine folks at Ultra Sabers already put in there.  The second solution is better for DIY builds where you don't want to mess with hot glue.

[Joshualee9871]

In the process. Still not fully sure how to effectively reheat the hot glue inside though without melting the wires.