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Author Topic: Looking for some technical guidance on my Jedi journey!  (Read 1878 times)
rjkepes1
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« on: May 15, 2020, 05:03:47 PM »

Hey all! Hope this post finds everyone safe and healthy!

  For a little background here I am new to US and sabering in general.  I received a Dominix V4 w/ sound from my first mystery box purchased at C2E2 this past February.  I immediately started researching how to make changes to make it more my own personal saber, and came to the conclusion that I should start on something else instead of possibly ruining my first saber.  So I purchased an Apprentice LE V5 stunt from marketplace for $50 bucks and I plan to complete my Jedi training by assembling my own saber.  I plan to reuse the arctic blue LED it came with, and have purchased the following from US; obsidian V4 Soundboard, grand master pommel, speaker/battery pack combo, blue illuminated momentary switch, covertech wheel, and buckpuck.  I have searched high and low and come to the conclusion that although there are videos detailing different sound boards and the like, I have yet to find a single video that fully describes conversion of a US stunt with the obsidian soundboard and items.  So here are the questions I am hoping you all will be able to answer as I start my journey here;  I know the buckpuck is wired into the LED circuit in place of the resistor, does this have any effect on the illuminated switch?  Does the switch integrate into the buckpuck circuit or is a separate resistor still required?  If so does anyone know which resistor the blue illuminated switch requires?  Does the obsidian sound board come prewired or do I have to tin and solder directly to the board?  Thank you in advance for any help offered!  I am contemplating videoing my journey so others can benefit if all goes well!  Additionally possibly going to add a buckpuck and illuminated switch to my Dominix if all goes well here and if I can find a black switch with orange illumination!
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Rapine
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2020, 05:18:06 PM »

Hey there rjkepes1,

Here's a wring diagram:


As you can see, the wires from the LED go to the buckpuck, which in turn goes to the board.  The wires for the switch LED splice into the ones coming off the LED, so will in fact be regulated by the buckpuck (that's how I do it, at least.  You'll see how it fits in there).  

HOWEVER, the switch LED runs at a much lower amperage/voltage than your main LED, so does need to be stepped-down even more.  I personally use DYNAOHM resistors (TCSS has them).

I ordered an Obsidian that came with wring harness already, but it might not.

Here's a video I made awhile ago:
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtbwsFlUabg" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtbwsFlUabg</a>


It's a stunt install, so there's no board, but I did use an illuminated switch and puck. Wink  Hopefully it helps demonstrate my point...lol
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rjkepes1
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2020, 06:21:54 PM »

You are my hero!  Thank you!!  Just now have to practice patience on the arrival of my parts
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Rapine
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« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2020, 06:27:21 PM »

Practice your soldering too - never hurts. Smiley

Best of luck. Smiley
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"The thing that always drives me hazy, is wondering whether it's them or me who's crazy." ~ A. Einstein

rjkepes1
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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2020, 11:05:20 PM »

OK so all parts are in, switch is wired up and prepped.  I test fit all connections and hit the switch and; sound activates, switch LED lights, but no light from the main LED.  I disconnect everything and directly attach power and ground from the battery holder/speaker to the main LED, It Lights.  Now I connect the power and ground from the main led back to the blue and white LED wires from the buck puck and directly attach power and ground from the battery holder to the red and black VIN on the buck puck, no response from the LED.  Is it safe to say that US sent me a bad buckpuck?   
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rjkepes1
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« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2020, 12:36:49 AM »

Also I have an extra Dynaohm resister, could this be used in the main LED circuit in replacement for the buckpuck? If so how would that work wiring wise? Is it better to be patient and use a buckpuck?
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firehand10k
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« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2020, 01:59:38 AM »

Also I have an extra Dynaohm resister, could this be used in the main LED circuit in replacement for the buckpuck? If so how would that work wiring wise? Is it better to be patient and use a buckpuck?


That wont work right. Dynaohm resistor outputs 20mA.   Main LED needs 750 to 1000 mA depending on  color and brand.
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rjkepes1
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« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2020, 02:32:50 AM »

Just to be clear. Looking at the diagram I had the LED power and ground wired straight to the blue and white on the buckpuck. That’s correct right?
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rjkepes1
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« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2020, 12:55:04 PM »

Just realized I may be not thinking here.  I was using normal AA batteries for my test configuration, could this be the problem?  I'm thinking I may have to use the Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries with the buckpuck.
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firehand10k
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« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2020, 02:35:45 PM »

Yes the AA batteries are the problem then. The buck puck uses about 2.2 volts itself the the main LEDs  then the LEDs still need the correct  forward voltage to light. Depending on colors that is 2.5 to 3.2 volts usually. With 2 AA cells you only have 3 volts total to work with. You can't get to that 4.7 minimum to light a basic red LED through a buck puck. Try it out with the lithium lions.
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Have:
Azure Reaper
Crimson Scorpion
Aeon LE  V4 pair
Monarch
Azure Omen
Mantis
Manticore CE
Guardian
Chosen One
Graflex
Menace staff
Sentinel V4 staff
Zweihander
Shark
Bane
Brood Guard

rjkepes1
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Force Alignment: 0
Posts: 13



« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2020, 02:45:41 PM »

You are the best!  I just ordered a set.
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