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Author Topic: In-Universe styled protective gear.  (Read 24100 times)
Darth Vrenen
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« Reply #15 on: March 11, 2012, 08:59:37 PM »

This sounds like an awesome idea! I would definitely be looking for something like this for both costume and dueling purposes in the future. Smiley
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Master Lucien Kane
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« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2012, 03:43:15 AM »

I recommend HDPE over ABS plastic.  ABS can have toxic outgassing at temperatures used for softening and manipulating; HDPE doesn't.

This is really good information to know. My workshop is will ventelated, so I'm not worried about it for me... but this is good so I don't try and do any of the small parts at home around my child... That would be bad.

HDPE... I'll have to look into it, Thanks Jenny, this is the type of information I'm looking for... Eliminating as much of the guesswork as possible.
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Jenny
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« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2012, 03:28:56 PM »

What can I say?  Hang around with the SCA armor crowd for a while, and you pick up information whether you want it or not. Wink

Seriously, check out Armor Archive.  Even if you're not doing historically styled armor, you'll pick up good info.
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Master Lucien Kane
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« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2012, 03:47:51 PM »

What can I say?  Hang around with the SCA armor crowd for a while, and you pick up information whether you want it or not. Wink

Seriously, check out Armor Archive.  Even if you're not doing historically styled armor, you'll pick up good info.

Definitely... armor is armor... some of the historically accurate armor is really good for reference because some of them had really articulate armor I.E. They could still get on and off a horse, and it still covered their entire body. So I will definitely be taking your advice and checking this out.
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Master Rel
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« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2012, 04:11:49 PM »

Most of your impact damage is going to come from a tight slap...so malleable plastic is great but will do little to belay the energy...it other words it is still going to hurt, maybe not bruise but still hurt.

An absorbing element is what I would look to.

Traditional martial arts tends to direct soft vs hard and hard vs soft...meaning that if you block a hard strike with bone you are more likely to be injured.

The sabers are a hard element with the focused slap...so I would consider something like these floor tiles



Inexpensive, easy to manipulate, and lightweight.

If you still wanted to add plastic elements then then energy would be refracted and absorbed by the combination of foam and plastic.  Plus you would only need smaller pieces of plastic.

Good luck and success with your project!
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Master Lucien Kane
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« Reply #20 on: March 12, 2012, 05:16:46 PM »

Most of your impact damage is going to come from a tight slap...so malleable plastic is great but will do little to belay the energy...it other words it is still going to hurt, maybe not bruise but still hurt.

An absorbing element is what I would look to.

Traditional martial arts tends to direct soft vs hard and hard vs soft...meaning that if you block a hard strike with bone you are more likely to be injured.

The sabers are a hard element with the focused slap...so I would consider something like these floor tiles



Inexpensive, easy to manipulate, and lightweight.

If you still wanted to add plastic elements then then energy would be refracted and absorbed by the combination of foam and plastic.  Plus you would only need smaller pieces of plastic.

Good luck and success with your project!


Why you gotta spoil the surprise...

Funny you should mention that because it's in the design. The cool thing about it is if you do things right you will only need minimal foam padding... the important part is to put the foam in the right places. The helmet will definitely have internal padding... That's how helmets work, but the rest of the armor will likely have padding as well.

Thanks for ruining my fun lol  Grin seriously though good call. I already have the foam ready to go.
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Master Rel
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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2012, 05:24:40 PM »

I like to think of it as less ruining your plans and more of common inspiration  Smiley

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Master Lucien Kane
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« Reply #22 on: March 12, 2012, 06:11:46 PM »

I like to think of it as less ruining your plans and more of common inspiration  Smiley



Lol great minds and what not.
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Master Lucien Kane
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« Reply #23 on: March 13, 2012, 03:38:42 PM »

Starting to really rethink the use of ABS for this... I was talking to my father-in-law last night, he is a contractor, and highly knowledgeable about such things, and he was saying that ABS won't hold up to the stress we'd be putting it through, he actually said PVC would be better to work with, not to mention cheaper. So this is another option we're looking into, the next time I make it out to our plastics provider I'll ask for some samples of different materials to test. We'll cover our bases so we aren't making like 12 prototype sets of armor and destroying everyone of them. I gotta say though PVC is looking like the best bet... I was looking at a bicycle helmet made from PVC... and I've tried to break that thing, it didn't happen... So I'm thinking that foam reinforced PVC is probably going to be our best bet, and it won't become brittle once we heat form it so that's a huge plus.

Just a small update.
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Master Rel
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« Reply #24 on: March 13, 2012, 04:07:01 PM »

My friend you have overlooked one of the easiest to fabricate with, most durable, and least expensive (considering tools, equipment, supplies) materials out there...fiberglass.

Short learning curve to match your areas' humidity with a touch of wax and balance of catalyst.

For piece armor you can layer as much or little glass mat as you like.

It will take quite a beating...you can sand, drill, paint, etc...

Super easy to repair if ever the need came up.

Just a thought.
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kj132
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« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2012, 10:28:44 PM »

i love those robes the jedi wear so if you could make  robes with armor under it i would buy it right away.
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« Reply #26 on: March 13, 2012, 11:57:26 PM »

i love those robes the jedi wear so if you could make  robes with armor under it i would buy it right away.

I'm working on learning how to sew... but honestly it's on the back burner... Maybe I'll talk with one of the costume designers I know to help me out... That will raise the price by at least another 200 bucks though... At least I'd imagine it would.
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Master Rel
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« Reply #27 on: March 14, 2012, 12:58:12 AM »

Get a basic model sewing machine, $100-125...here is a basic from Mal-Wart $80


http://www.walmart.com/ip/Brother-2600I-Free-Sewing-Machine/4764723

Follow directions for loading thread...it is all pictures...start sewing.

When you start or stop reverse an inch or so to lock the thread lines.

And invest in a decent pair of scissors, a seam ripper, and if you want to take the plunge a pair of pinking shears





A decent pair of scissors...mid range when you go to store...cheap scissors stay sharp until you take them out of the package.

Seam rippers are a few bucks...take a sewn seam and hold it tight, place point in between and slowing run along seam, it is easy to use and once you use it you will find you can not do without one.

Pinking shears cut a pinking edge or a partial saw tooth which prevents fraying, unraveling, or other wise unusual cloth from doing what it wants to do.

*****'

Grab some remnants of cloth for a couple bucks, a cheap pillow for a couple bucks, and make some decorative pillows.

Cut a shape, say a square, with an extra 4-5" more than you want the pillow to end up (this allows for filling and width), so you want an 18" pillow then cut the squares (x2) 20-22" depending on how thick you want it to be, place outside facing sides together, sew along one edge (leave needle down so you can turn it without loosing your position), sew next edge (same needle trick), sew third edge (same needle trick), then sew half way along fourth edge, stop and cut threads, put hand in hole, grab far edge, pull through, now it is right side out, stuff with pillow fluff, fold cut edge of fourth remaining half, start sewing one inch before thread cut, sew it closed, reverse at end back one inch to seal the threads.

Once you make a successful pillow your confidence will be boundless.

Enjoy.

That is the break down from the basic sewing pillow project I teach...$25 + materials  Smiley


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Master Lucien Kane
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« Reply #28 on: March 14, 2012, 06:01:30 AM »

 Nice! My wife has a really nice sewing machine... provided her little sister hasn't wrecked it. Probably needs new needles. I have a couple of ladies around here who can teach me, I just haven't gotten around to it yet... I'm learning to build lightsabers and blasters and vibroaxes and all sorts of things. So I'm on overload right now lol
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kj132
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« Reply #29 on: March 14, 2012, 08:56:05 PM »

I'm working on learning how to sew... but honestly it's on the back burner... Maybe I'll talk with one of the costume designers I know to help me out... That will raise the price by at least another 200 bucks though... At least I'd imagine it would.
holy crap 200 dollars for just the robe. there would be no way i could get that. my mom wouldnt let me get 200 dollars worth of sewn fabric.

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