Thinking of Machining My Own Saber.. Electronics Check List

[PeDDeR27]

Hello, all!

Recently I have been thinking about making my own custom saber. My father has access to a milling machine and a cnc machine at his work, and he said that he would teach me to use them (or at least do it for me, all I have to do is give him the plans and dimensions). I was planning on making it pretty simple, with no sound or anything. I am pretty new to the technical side of sabers, so I only barely have an idea of what I would need for the electronics.

So far I have:

-4 AAA Battery Holder (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/parts%20-%204aaa%20battery%20holder.htm) From what I heard, use 2AAA Pack for red and orange colored LED's, 4AAA for the others. What's the difference between using a 4AAA battery pack and a 3AA battery pack? I plan on either doing SRD, GB, or AB.
-1000mA Wired BuckPuck (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-buckpuck1000.htm) I heard this is much easier to deal with; basically hook it up and you're done.
-Guarded Latching Switch (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-guardedlatching.htm)

For the LED, I have no idea which one to pick.

-LED Module (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/led%20module.htm)
-Modular LED System (MLS) unit (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/mls.htm)

All I know is that with the MLS unit you can easily switch out the LED's for different colors easily. Is that the only difference? Is one better than the other? Different sizes? I would like to know the differences between the two, please.

Once I get the electronics, I plan on getting their measurements so I can think of something up for the internal side of the saber.

Other than that, is there anything I am missing?

Thanks!

EDIT: Question not related to this, but which LED does the Initiate V3 take? The LED Module or the MLS LED Unit?

[Hake Felflame]

The MLS LED units are designed for the MHS-compatable emitters only (notice the lip around the bottom of the LED shroud, that is locked in place by the emitter when threaded in). The standard LED units are used in the v3 sabers. Changing out LED units is more dependent on the quick disconnects than the LED unit itself. If you plan on going with any red LED (as either a single die or part of an RGB unit), I believe you will have to wire in a resistor after the 1000mAh puck or use a 700mAh puck instead (which are available through ultrasabers, along with lots of other parts US does not carry).

[PeDDeR27]

Alright, thanks for clearing that up!

I plan on either using Guardian Blue, Arctic Blue, or Dark Violet Amethyst. I know I would use the 4AAA and 1000mA BuckPuck for the GB and AB, but what battery pack and BuckPuck would I need for DVA?

And whats the difference between using a 4AAA battery pack and a 3AA battery pack, since they are both apparently used for blue/green LED's?

[Hake Felflame]

For a darker purple color, you can still use the 1000mAh puck, buy you will still have to resistor the red die on the LED past the puck. The higher the resistance before the red die, the less red light is mixed into the blade color. This is the critical part, both so you get the color you want, and also because you don't want to blow out your LED by putting too much power into it.

As for the battery packs, the difference is mostly in the combined voltage. Typically a 4xAAA pack will yield 6V, while a 3xAA pack is likely to be 4.5V if you use alkaline batteries. The voltage will factor into what kind of resistance you need, if any. The difference between AAA and AA is mostly capacity and size.

[PeDDeR27]

Thank you so much! I think I am set.

[PeDDeR27]

Does anyone know the size of the non-MHS LED Module (http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/led%20module.htm)? I know the OD is 1", but what about it's height?

[Hake Felflame]

Just pulled one out and measured it, 1-3/8" long.

[PeDDeR27]

Thank you! Really Appreciate it.