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Author Topic: The Econo Obi-Wan Dissection  (Read 9059 times)
Darth Eyece
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« on: April 01, 2011, 11:04:10 AM »

This is just my hack & slash way through the Obi-Wan sound card extraction process.  There is probably easier ways.  It was my second dissection, my first being the Vader equivalent of this.  I used my Dremel and my Gerber multi-tool for 90% of this process, and a small screwdriver for smaller screws.  I want a contrast battlestaff with an Aeon/Ultraedge heavy grade/arctic blue opposing my Dominix V2 LE (w/black coupler) Guardian Blue/Ultraedge heavy grade.  I want my Dominix to have the Sith sound, and my Aeon to have the Jedi sound.  I will be doing other mods to my sabers, but I'm waiting for parts, and for my warranty to expire, this also gives me time to flesh out my mods.

Moving on, here we go, this is step 1 for all projects, obtain said Obi-Wan cheap-o toy from Target for a clearance price of $6.99 if you are dumb lucky (like I was the other day), or just get them anywhere that sells star wars toys for around $20.



Then acquire yourself some dissection tools, I went with my Wal-Mart special Dremel, and a pocket knife, small screwdriver, and my Gerber multi-tool.



Next, I used my Dremel to trace the seam of the saber once every single screw on the outside was removed.  I think they put those screws there for show, because they didn't seem to hold anything together.  Once the seem was cut down the side, I cut around the pommel behind the speaker a bit.





This was tough, I needed to go in deep enough to crack this ridiculously resistant seal, but not too deep to damage the electronics components any.  I kind of felt the disc cutter ease up when I made it through the plastic, and just used that as a gauge to go by.  Once that was done, I did the same deep cutting around the pommel lines I made, and then forced my cut side apart with my Gerber, and put my pocket knife into the opposite seem I hadn't cut yet, and the whole thing split in two like a log.




Another look...



The soundcard was also screwed down, so I took that screw out, and started freeing up the wires from anything holding them down.  There is an interesting comb-like cage for the wires near the on/off button, but they were easily snapped aside, and the wires freed up. I apologize for the fuzziness, my camera doesn't like extreme closeups, sorry Wayne, and Garth...



...and here's the speaker/swing sensor unit...



Once the speaker was cracked off, I finished pulling all of the small components wired to the soundcard away...



...closeup of the actual soundcard...



...interesting cage still around the speaker...



swing sensor and LED array thing...





everything gutted



...and finally, the moment we have all been waiting for, the fruits of my 'labor:'



The left unit with the green electrical tape is obviously the Jedi soundcard we just yanked outta my cheapy toy, and the one on the right with the red electrical tape is predictably my Sith soundcard junk.

Now, I need to figure out how many batteries I need to run my Dominix with the soundcard, how to remove the LED's from the Vader soundcard, what resistors I need, and then to put it all together...  I'll be needing all your help in the future guys, but I know this question gets asked a bit, so I figured I'd put up a visual, for those of us who like to see...

Take care all, hope this helps!!  Feedback is appreciated!!
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ShadowKatt
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2011, 02:52:38 PM »

I dismantled my Mace Windu in much the same fashion, except I took out the screws first and then pulled it apart rather than gut the thing like a kipper Tongue

Now the real question is, what are you going to do with the guts now that you have then?
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Darth Eyece
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2011, 08:11:08 PM »

I did remove all of the screws first, there were like 6!  Now that I have the soundcards, I mentioned I had some homework to figure out before I can put it in the sabers.  Like, i'm not sure where I would add it, but I'm guessing it goes somewhere after the switch... I just bought a soldering iron, solder, desoldering braid, and my immediate goal is to figure out how to remove the LED from the 'Vader board, since that's the first one i'm going to use.

My problem is that I'm new to electronics and I need to read up on resistors, and maybe get a few, and I want to wait for my Dominix warranty to expire before I tinker with it!

Any help from anyone is appreciated, I am but a lowly initiate!

Thanks to all for looking!   Smiley
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Manroon
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2011, 10:52:18 PM »

When I started working on this, I was pointed to the custom saber shop forums by Natalia. There's a LOAD of good wiring diagrams over there for just these soundboards. Poke around, you should be able to find them pretty easy. There's diagrams for all sorts of different ways of doing it, just adding sound, adding sound and accent LEDs, etc, etc, etc... Great load of information there.
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Caine
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2011, 10:56:03 PM »

There is a whole thread over there dedicated to these boards. Seek and ye shall find.  Wink

Hint: You will NEED a PNP transistor when wiring it up. These boards cannot power the main LED on their own.
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ShadowKatt
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« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2011, 03:17:41 AM »

There is a whole thread over there dedicated to these boards. Seek and ye shall find.  Wink

Hint: You will NEED a PNP transistor when wiring it up. These boards cannot power the main LED on their own.

PNP Transistor. Great, now you broke my brain again. I was just getting the hang of REsistors and now we have TRANsistors.

Actually, not sure why anything would need to be required if you're <I>just</I> transplanting the guts.
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One Winged Angel
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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2011, 03:55:29 AM »

Actually, not sure why anything would need to be required if you're just transplanting the guts.

It'd be like trying to run a F-250 (or other similarly massive truck) on a little inline 4. It can't handle the power needed.
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ShadowKatt
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2011, 05:27:21 AM »

It'd be like trying to run a F-250 (or other similarly massive truck) on a little inline 4. It can't handle the power needed.

I think you misunderstand. Already have the LED, the board, the switch, and the battery pack. Unless the LED just isn't bright enough to light up a hollow saber blade, just take the whole set up and shove it into a new hilt. No soldering required(Unless you break something, of course). The real trick is just getting it all to sit right.
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Darth Eyece
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« Reply #8 on: April 03, 2011, 09:13:11 AM »

@ShadowKatt -- the LED's for the vader/obi-wan 2010 toy are weak salsa... three of them did nothing for the toy, I'll have to test for personal amusement on my ultraedge heavy grade blade later...  The card fits into the handle of the Dominix with little room for error, but some electrical tape "buffers" between the card and the hilt will probably be a good idea...

I now have to wire my ultra saber to this card, and i'll need these transistors, and to figure out my math for it all.  Since I'm a noob with no electrical experience, I'll need to learn fast!  It'd be great if I could get it sorted out before I work tomorrow (Sunday, today, whatever), then I could pick them up at Radio Shack before I work, and put it together Sunday night... but alas, learning can't be rushed.

@Caine -- I appreciate your contribution, I have indeed been pouring over the forums there, but am so overwhelmed by the lingo of these electronics-savvy people that it takes some translation sometimes... but with those forums, this is where i've landed:



and



now I also read that the left three terminals are negative, and only the far right is positive. 



I read they put out 7 somethings, (ma? fogive me, not sure...) and you only need to connect one, but someone else said do them all, I think doing them all sounds more powerful, and I do want my lightsaber to be as bright as I can get it, but, I connect that to a transistor, and then to the LED (not sure what I have honestly, haven't taken it all apart yet) and then the other LED cable to the other transistor, and then to a battery pack? 


**image borrowed from TCSS forums in a public tutorial***

even this (seemingly nice) diagram is fairly cryptic to me, but I guess I get the jist of it...

I dont understand a lot of this stuff, but I am rapidly learning, and I have a few books coming from amazon that were recommended for learning electronics stuff, so hopefully I can pick this up... I have a some basic tools, that should help...  please any pointers anyone has would be appreciated, i've spent several hours in the TCSS forums reading, a lot of the pictures require you to be a forum member, but I'm a bit intimidated, and my time is short, so I need to keep to the forums i'm already a part of...

You all rock, thanks for your time!!
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"Sith Apprentice, 'Darth Eyece' sir." 
"Never 'eard of 'im."
"...this'll be the last time... I assure you..."
Due to the nature of my character, I would appreciate Dark Side points please...

ShadowKatt
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« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2011, 05:04:02 AM »

I knew that the LEDs from the toys would be nothing special, but if they'd light a blade...

It wouldn't be anything special but it would be a quick and easy conversion to a new hil- *sees wiring diagram and starts braindead drooling*
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Darth Eyece
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« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2011, 11:25:53 AM »

@Caine:  I scoured some more at tcss forums, and you are right sir, someone else has done this before, and they said the light looked to be at 25% battery capacity when it was wired up without the pnp transistor.  I only need one, huh?  I'll be picking up that guy at Radio Shack tomorrow!  I dont think my Dominix has a momentary switch though, so I'll need to pick up one of those pretty LED momentary switches from tcss as well...  such an addicting hobby, and this is only my first...

this is more for me than anyone else, I just want to see it typed out...  I have my Dominix V2 LE with Guardian Blue (a Seoul LED I noticed today when re-wiring the battery pack, which is done now btw), and I'll be sanding the "emitter" area to give it a nice angled tip, then two more holes will be drilled into the front left, and front right of the emitter to put two of those smaller 8/32" set screws.  Then, the back two holes will have those black anodized thumbscrews, which will allow for a "quicker" release blade, for comic cons, and such.  Then, install the vader soundcard, and voila, done.

Then we move to the next saber, the Aeon, in arctic blue, same mods, Dominix coupler (the black one) to minimize the silver.  Glorious. 

Thanks again Caine!
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"Sith Apprentice, 'Darth Eyece' sir." 
"Never 'eard of 'im."
"...this'll be the last time... I assure you..."
Due to the nature of my character, I would appreciate Dark Side points please...

Caine
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« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2011, 05:26:54 AM »

Glad I could direct you properly. Do lots of reading (yes it IS overwhelming) be patient and you'll be fine.

FYI: When you wire in your lighted Anti-Vandal switch, run the led parallel with the main LED of the econo board. I have run 3 accent LED's off of it no problem)
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Darth Eyece
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« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2011, 07:51:48 PM »

I was thinking maybe just one accent LED, that's great info!  Back to the books...  t/y again!!
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"...this'll be the last time... I assure you..."
Due to the nature of my character, I would appreciate Dark Side points please...

Darth Dau Kho
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« Reply #13 on: April 16, 2011, 03:05:30 AM »

*blank stare* ...ugh... im so lost... is this even possible with an initiate v2?
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« Reply #14 on: April 16, 2011, 03:25:18 AM »

In the words of Ozzy Osbourne: "Sharon! Sharon! Oh I'm so confused."
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