Some Cool Sith Pictures

[Zren Tobas]

As I said before. The shutter speed is set at 30 seconds for this one and the aperture at like 1.3 I believe. That's how I got these results. So let me know what you think or if I should try something different. Oh the ISO is at 800. My shutter speed only does 400 and 800 ISO. So here they are. Like I said my camera isn't THAT fancy so I can't do crystal clear pictures and such like with the higher end cameras. But I'm happy with the results. If anyone else has any ideas then shoot them at me.

[Zren Tobas]

@Vent. Yeah it says 1/30 on the pictures info. So that's 1/30th of a second then?

[Master Venturous]

Yeah, you're actually shooting at 1/30th of a second and not 30 seconds. If you were shooting at 30 seconds, the picture would be MUCH brighter and a lot blurrier because a 30 second Shutter Speed would pick up a LOT of movement from the saber. I like the color you are getting from the saber in these pics. The only thing I would suggest is shooting these pics again with slightly different settings. You said you shot these at 1/30 seconds, 1.3 Aperture and 800 ISO. The 800 ISO is giving you a lot of noise in these pics (which is the graininess of them), so I would suggest lowering your ISO to 400 (which will darken the picture but produce less noise) and then lengthen your Shutter Speed to around 1/10 seconds to compensate for the loss of light from the decreased ISO. Those settings should give you roughly the same shot, but with less noise. Granted the lengthened Shutter Speed will pick up more movement than the 1/30 seconds you were using, so you'll have to do your best to keep still during the shots. If the shots end up coming out a bit too bright, you might try dropping your Aperture down a step or two, maybe to something like f/2 or f/3.5. See if any of those settings help give you a clearer image and be sure to post them if they do.

[Zren Tobas]

I'll give it a shot. =] Already got the camera set. The f part does it automatically though. Lol.

[Zren Tobas]

Still having the core effect. The aperture for me is little lines on the right. Which line and which side should it be set on? x.x But here are the newe results. The blade is less grainy now with the ISO at 400 like you said.

[Zren Tobas]

My aperture setting thing looks like this on the right. Sorry if the link is ubber long though. Like for you which line did you set yours on?

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoKtQVr1RBW8ArkeJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBlMTQ4cGxyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1n?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Ddigital%2Bcamera%2Baperture%2Bsymbol%26ei%3DUTF-8%26fr%3Dfp-yie9%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D2&w=500&h=383&imgurl=www.mkdigitaldirect.com%2Fimages%2Ftips%2FcameraSetup%2FscreenAperture-L.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mkdigitaldirect.com%2Ftips%2F10-steps-setup-digital-camera.html&size=25.3KB&name=%3Cb%3EDigital+Camera+%3C%2Fb%3Esetup+in+10+easy+steps&p=digital+camera+aperture+symbol&oid=bf4ba6fa6aa26d7c1d128e91bcfd70b6&fr2=&fr=fp-yie9&tt=%3Cb%3EDigital+Camera+%3C%2Fb%3Esetup+in+10+easy+steps&b=0&ni=128&no=2&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=1267802v3&sigb=13i1p3vbp&sigi=124lbrbsl&.crumb=onSHTPDgUDN&fr=fp-yie9

[Zren Tobas]

I need to know ASAP. Lol. Me and my brother are planning on doing some Sith pictures later. We will do some with just the color if possible and with the core and such.

[Zren Tobas]

Finally got it! I was like, I wonder what would happen if I lowered the ISO to 64. After a few minutes of thinking this is the final result. Unless its still not close enough? Shutter speed is still at 10 and I used manual this time. Let me know what you think. =]

[Master Venturous]

Yeah that definitely shows the real color of the blade without that core effect. The lines you mentioned earlier is actually exposure compensation. You Aperture is a different settings. I don't know if the picture you posted above is of your camera or not, but the Aperture is the thing that says f 8.0 and the lines on the right are exposure compensation. Exposure compensation is basically a way to brighten or darken a shot quickly without messing with the other settings and is useful for dealing with awkward or unusual lighting situations where the camera meter can be fooled. The lines you see are called "stops", which are increments of light that is either being added or reduced from the shot. The middle line is the 0 setting for exposure compensation and neither lightens nor darkens the shot. The smaller lines are fractions of one full stop of light, while the slightly larger lines are full stops of light. So in that picture, the third line up from the middle line would be 1 full stop of light being added to the shot to make it brighter. The same line below the middle line would be 1 full stop of light being deducted from the shot to make it darker. In that picture however, it looks like the exposure compensation is set to the line just above the middle line, which would increase the brightness of the shot slightly.

Hopefully that all makes sense and I didn't just confuse the hell out of you. Exposure compensation is just there if you aren't using Manual mode and if you want a slightly brighter or darker image without messing with your settings. I would say for the most part just leave it at 0, which would be the middle line.

[Zren Tobas]

Oh okay I get it. But yeah I can't manually set my aperture in manual mode. It sucks. x.x But I finally found a good setting I like. ISO at 400 and shutter speed at 30 seconds. I'll get some pictures up later tonight. (Ohio time). This one had no core effect at all but you could still see my face and such. I have my exposure all the way down. Like that very first line so hardly any light gets in. Try ISO at 400 and 30 second shutter speed sometime. Its a cool effect.

[Zren Tobas]

@Venturous. How's this for a pint? Shutter speed at 100, exposure on the second line on the left. Aperture at 1.3. I did it just right to where there is no core effect but you can still somewhat see me and the hilt too. =] I think this one is pretty close. Should be more epic looking during the night.

[Master Venturous]

Looking good. Those settings really bring out the sith red of that saber.

[Zren Tobas]

Then I think I will keep the ISO 64 and shutter speed at 100. =] What about for blues and greens though?

[Master Venturous]

From what I've seen, blues and greens tend to give off more of that white core effect on cameras than colors like red and orange. Therefore, you might have to drop your Shutter Speed down even more to get rid of that extra white core effect. I would say drop it incrementally though until you achieve the desired look.




Below are four shots from my UEHG vs UE blade comparison thread that show how the white core creeps into a blue blade much faster than a red one.

Shutter Speed: 1/30 seconds


Shutter Speed: 1/10 seconds


Shutter Speed: 1/3 seconds


Shutter Speed: 0.6 seconds



As you can see, the white core comes in much faster in the blue blades than it does in the red ones. This means that you might have to drop your Shutter Speed even more to get rid of that core from a blue or a green blade. On the flip side, if you want that white core effect in your images, you won't have to increase your Shutter Speed as much as you would to get it to show up in a red or an orange blade.

[Zren Tobas]

Already tried the 30 seconds and it worked. I'll have to try the 3 seconds. My camera don't do say 0.6 seconds. Lol. I want a higher end camera so bad.