LED Custom Build Questions

[shelly800m]

Hello all! I'm working on my first custom saber and it's a combination of UltraSaber parts and TCSS MHS parts for the hilt. I have the Manticore emitter and I want to make sure I order an LED module that is sized properly for it. Ideally I'd like to do as much of the soldering and construction myself so I'd like to avoid a modular unit. If I order the LED module under the build your own saber electronics tab would I put it together myself like shown in the youtube video or does it come preassembled? I'm looking at the one that has the 1" outer diameter not the MLS which clearly says it works with the Manticore.

Second question, what is the actual LED used in order Adgean silver so I can make sure I have the proper buckpuck? Is it the Soeul P4 in white?

Thanks!!!

[chicago.jedi]

If you are using MHS parts, you want the MLS unit, not the other one. The 1" one will have nothing holding it in place and will flop around inside (unless you do some major supporting work). Both unit types come pre-made so you will not have any soldering to do to the LED pad. You still need to solder the wires to the rest of the guts.

Be careful mixing US and TCSS parts, especially on the emitter end. I have gotten myself ina bind a few times trying to use this ones MLS and that one's emitter since the methods for locking the LED's in place is totally different. If you use an Ultra Sabers emitter, I would use an Ultra Sabers MLS unit, too. The TCSS LEDs slide into a countersink pocket in the back of the Blade Holder and will be difficult to use with an Ultra Sabers emitter.

I understand wanting to do all of the soldering yourself as a point of pride. But if you are using an Ultra Saber emitter, you kind of need an Ultra Saber MLS. There is plenty of other soldering you will get to/ need to do and saying you built the saber yourself will impress anyone.


Have fun with the build. It is a great and fulfilling experience. You will not regret it.

[shelly800m]

Awesome, thanks! I do plan to purchase an US LED.....although I didn't realize i would need to until last night. Luckily I figured it out before ordering something that wouldn't fit!

[chicago.jedi]

Awesome, thanks! I do plan to purchase an US LED.....although I didn't realize i would need to until last night. Luckily I figured it out before ordering something that wouldn't fit!

I have a few sabers that were build around oops parts (parts that I bought and then realized they were not going to work). I think I am down to one rouge part in my bin, but I might find a use for that one too.

[marquis_devaux]

Well I too am building my first saber and just happen to have a Manticore emitter, TCSS MLS unit, War Glaive body, and blank TCSS body so I tried it.  "No Joy".  The emitter screws into either body no problem but the MLS unit does not fit at all.  I might be able to force it in if I spend all day grinding down the heat sink, but I am not even going to try it.  When I put the MLS unit in either body their is just no room to screw the emitter on, the heat sink is just too thick and only leaves about an 1/8th between it and the threads which is no where near enough for a manticore emitter.

NOTE: Makes me wonder how this would work even with a TCSS emitter?

[shelly800m]

Good info! Hopefully an ultrasaber MLS will fit into the manticore and then attach to one of the TCSS extension pieces properly. So far I've only ordered the emitter bc the manticore is by far the best looking one out there but I keep changing my mind about the rest of the hilt so I haven't made any purchases yet :-)

Touching on another topic, how well would a rotary tool work to cut away and shape a shroud from one of the pre-fabricated sleeves on the market?

[chicago.jedi]

Good info! Hopefully an ultrasaber MLS will fit into the manticore and then attach to one of the TCSS extension pieces properly. So far I've only ordered the emitter bc the manticore is by far the best looking one out there but I keep changing my mind about the rest of the hilt so I haven't made any purchases yet :-)

Touching on another topic, how well would a rotary tool work to cut away and shape a shroud from one of the pre-fabricated sleeves on the market?

What you describe should work. Extensions are usually fine, the choke pieces can be another story. Again, it depends on the combination of parts but a US MLS is needed with a US emitter.

Well I too am building my first saber and just happen to have a Manticore emitter, TCSS MLS unit, War Glaive body, and blank TCSS body so I tried it.  "No Joy".  The emitter screws into either body no problem but the MLS unit does not fit at all.  I might be able to force it in if I spend all day grinding down the heat sink, but I am not even going to try it.  When I put the MLS unit in either body their is just no room to screw the emitter on, the heat sink is just too thick and only leaves about an 1/8th between it and the threads which is no where near enough for a manticore emitter.

NOTE: Makes me wonder how this would work even with a TCSS emitter?

If you have a TCSS LED module, you must use a TCSS emitter. They are made to work together. There is probably some way to make what you have work but it might involve some extensive work.

In general, extension pieces and pommels are safe to swap around. Emitters and MLS units are sort of brand specific.

Good luck. Feel free to PM if you need to.  Believe me, I have made all of these mistakes myself, that is how I know.

[shelly800m]

Thanks Chicago Jedi! Follow on build question, in your opinion is a 40W soldering iron going to work for saber construction or would I need something less?

[chicago.jedi]

Thanks Chicago Jedi! Follow on build question, in your opinion is a 40W soldering iron going to work for saber construction or would I need something less?

The iron I have is a 40w. It is a cheap one from Menards and it works fine. I am no expert on the subject. I pretty much taught myself how to solder wires with you-tube videos and a little advice from a co-worker. There might be better irons for what we are doing but this one has always worked for me.

I plug it in, let it get good and hot, and then go to work. If I get in a hurry, it is no good. I only do this when I have the time and can be undisturbed (in a house with two little kids, that is not easy). The only issue I have had is from time to time I will burn the jacketing on the wires. I am not sure if this is due to the iron being too powerful for what we are doing or if it is just my technique (probably my technique). It is not a major problem, I just cover the area up with a little more shrink wrap and it is fine.

Again, I am not an expert but this has worked for me. I have never had a joint come apart nor have I ever damaged any components while soldering (though I must admit, I have never done any board soldering either, only wire to wire).

Best advise, practice. Get a spool of 26 gauge wire and just make joints until you have it down pat. I got the wire I use from a hobby shop that sells model train stuff. I made about a dozen joints before trying to work on a saber.

Good luck. I am always happy to let others learn from my mistakes  . 

[James Casey]

For what it's worth, I found a 20W iron fine for doing my own work. If anything, a little hotter would have been useful but too hot and I'd have been setting off the heat shrink more than I did already

[chicago.jedi]

For what it's worth, I found a 20W iron fine for doing my own work. If anything, a little hotter would have been useful but too hot and I'd have been setting off the heat shrink more than I did already

I like your iron, James. The tip is much smaller than mine. Sometimes my tip is so big it gets cumbersome in small places, like the switch prongs.

Do you find that is provides enough heat to make good joints with no "cold lap"? If so, I might need to look for a similar one, or at least a thinner tip for the one I have.

[marquis_devaux]

I feel like such a sissy, mine is only 15w.  Just something I picked up at radio shack but it does have a nice small tip.  Have not had any issue yet with it not being hot enough.

[chicago.jedi]

I feel like such a sissy, mine is only 15w.  Just something I picked up at radio shack but it does have a nice small tip.  Have not had any issue yet with it not being hot enough.

If it works, it works. I did not know there were different sizes of soldering irons when I was shopping. I just saw one at the hardware store, the price was reasonable, I bought it, it worked, so that is the one I use.

There may very well be a "best" one to use for this hobby but I have no idea. I just use what I have and it works.

If yours works for you, that is all that matters, my friend.