Ok, so this is for Ren Kobar. I finally got the extended blade done for my Flamberge. First off, no I didn't take pictures to compare the old blade to the new one, but the new blade is 6 inches longer. Second I learned something in making this blade, there is a reason for using polycarbonate. Its softer. I found this out when securing the blades because I cracked two of them because I used acrylic for these but I have some polycarbonate on the way, but the instructions are the same. I did not take pictures of the process because I am crushed for time right now between making three costumes and editing a film for a con in three weeks.
MATERIALS1. Polycarbonate tubing. This is pretty standard for all US blades and I found by comparing my 40" US midgrade ultraedge to the one I made. but you need the thick stuff because at the length I wanted, the blade would bend more if it were thinner. This obviously makes it heavier, but it's stronger and you can feel the power behind it. You can buy some here, and if amazon doesn't have it now, they might soon and you at least have the measurements you need.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMJ4VU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=12. Clear cellophane roll. It usually comes in 40" wide, but 25' long. You can buy it at Michaels or Hobby Lobby in their cards and gift wrapping section. It costs less than $5. DO NOT get the pearlescent kind. It doesn't reflect better and it cuts the brightness insanely. You can try getting some clear colored stuff, but I've had no luck with it.
3. Dowl rod. Get one as straight as possible, and about half the inner diameter of the tubing you're using. This will have multiple functions and you definitely want it. It will not be as long as your blade, but that won't matter.
4. 150 or 220 grit sand paper.
5. Blade plugs. However many you need. They come with the reflecting disc pre installed on them.
http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/parts-rtipheavy.htm6. Hot glue and gun.
7. CLEAR E-6000.
8. Scissors, and something to cut the polycarbonate with. I used a serrated blade on a leatherman.
9. Sharpie.
10. Tissue paper and a dry cloth.
11. Measuring tape.
12. Time, and lots and lots of patience.
INSTRUCTIONS1. Peel the sticker off your dowel rod and sand off the remnants. Then wipe it down to get the wood dust off.
2. Using the measuring tape, measure how long you want the blade from the emitter. Then find out how much of the blade sits in the hilt and add that to your measurement. Do this for all the blades you're making, in the case of the flamberge, 3.
3. With the sharpie, transfer this to your tube and then cut. It may be best to have someone help you cut if you're using a knife by keeping it against a steady perpendicular surface and rolling it against it.
4. Sand the tubes. First up and down the blade vertically, then around the blade horizontally. This gives the blade that frosted look because I couldn't find frosted polycarbonate, if you can find it more power to you. This takes up the most time and your arms will get tired beyond all belief because you need it to be as uniform as possible and cannot have any transparent areas. Change sand paper often because you'll put melted bits of dust on it and it's hard to get off. Also clean off and burrs from cutting the blade.
5. Wipe down the blade with a dry cloth. NOT WET. A wet cloth will leave water marks that will make the blade look weird when it's lit.
6. Put in the blade plugs, but DO NOT glue them in yet. This is a good point to test out the length of the blade in the hilt and to turn it on just to see how it looks.
7. Get as clear a surface as possible on carpet to lay down the cellophane. This is likely not possible so watch for hairs and dusts later.
8. Using the dowel rod in the tube of cellophane and holding the edge of the cellophane firm but not enough to crease it, roll the cellophane to the side to a length just a little longer than you're blade. When laying down it should look kind of like how the toilet paper roll goes over, not under. This keeps it from rolling back onto itself since the cellophane lays flat this way.
9. Cut the cellophane. You won't be able to see what you're doing because of how near invisible it is.
10. Using the dowel rod placed in the center of the edge of your cellophane roll the cellophane perpendicular to the way you unrolled it earlier. This is difficult since the edges hang off the ends of the dowl. DO NOT try and get it tight with the first wrap around, you will just frustrate yourself and get angry. To make the roll smaller than the inner diameter of your tube keep rolling it against the carpet to make it roll down kind of like rolling paper against a table to make it tight. REMEMBER to watch for hairs and dirt as you roll and clean them as you go.
11. Carefully slide the cellophane into the blade along the floor, then let the dowel fall out. Use your pinky to unroll the cellophane to the edges.
12. Go into a dark room and test the blade. I found that 2 layers of cellophane worked best, but this is to your preference so you may need to repeat steps 8-11.
13. When you have your cellophane to the preferred thickness use your pinky again to tighten the roll and pull it out just a little to cut it and push it back in so none of the cellophane pokes out of the end.
14. With the hot glue gun, secure the cellophane to the blade.
15. Using the edge of your scissors pop the blade plug out.
16. Draw a small bead of E-6000 around the inside edge of the blade.
17. Place the blade plug back in whilst trying to turn it. This will ensure a better seal and more contact for the glue.
18. In the case of the flamberge, mark on the new blade where the bottom of the emitter ring is supposed to be and place it there. If you're working with a normal saber, Just secure it and have fun.
