Archon V2.1 Stunt Quesions

[Antron007]

Hey gang,
 I'm considering getting an Archon 2.1 stunt saber and I have a couple of questions.

Where is the retention screw on that emitter? Is it all the way up at the top thinnest ring or somewhere lower below that upper flange?

Also I want a stunt for costs sake. I'm under the impression that since it can be ordered as an Emerald with Sound, I can take my Emerald with sound I already own and put it into this unit. Am I correct in this assumption? There aren't multiple versions of the hilts for stunt/obsidian/emerald/the works is there? I know there were RGB hilts at one point that required longer hilts but the Emerald uses just the one button.

Which brings me to my final question(s). Does the Archon 2.1 come with a 16mm switch by default? I didn't see an option to even add a 16mm Non-Illuminated or latching or any switch options when putting the saber together on the website. If it doesn't come with an AV style switch by default how would I go about getting one. It's really just for the hole because I want to put my EwS setup into it and I don't want to do any drilling if I don't have to. So, having it come with the correct hole would be nice. Plus I'll have a switch that will fit my other saber when I swap the guts.

Thanks in advance.

[Racona Nova]

1. The retention screw sits below the big ring surrounding the emitter hole, maybe 1 or 2" from the very top.

2. Yes, that would be possible, but you would need to switch everything - the LED module, the switch, the battery pack! Only switching the board doesn't work!

3. For stunt sabers without an activation box (Chosen One, Graflex, Malice), US only offers black plastic guarded latching switches. Latching AV switches are too long for the sabers if not using an activation box. The guarded switches are slightly smaller (about 12mm) than the AV switches, so without drilling you won't be able to fit your current 16mm AV switch. However, there are 3rd-party momentary AV switches with 12mm, yo you could get one of these instead.

[Antron007]

Thanks Racona,
 1. I read your replay and wondered if it would show up in the 360 view and it does. That's none question I should never have to ask about a saber again.
 2. I was aware that it is an entire transplant but thanks for the fair warning and looking out for a fellow member.
 3. I do suppose a 12mm AV would work just the same. Mine is a white illuminated black AV. I like the techie look of the illuminated AV switches but I do respect and appreciate the guarded switch as well. It just looks OG Star Wars so I might even go with a momentary guarded. While I do like the look of the illuminated AV switch, TO ME it isn't as impressive as I thought it'd be and as I'm typing this, the old school button would look pretty good on the Archon.

 I'm torn between the Archon 2.1 and piecing something together from MHS parts. I like the look of the Archon but I'm even more interested in the parts them selves. I'd like to get a MHS handle I really like and swap parts out as I like. Just to keep things different. I have my V4 Dark Initiate and I can only hold 2 sabers at once (theoretically at least) so I figure my next saber should be able to be multiple sabers.


Anyway I see you cleared some things up for me in someone else's recharge port thread and I have a few more detailed questions.
 4. What's the difference in the ports other that the way they are wired? Are they different ports or is it just the way it's wired?
 5. Depending on the answer to 4 this might not even be a relevant question but, if it is just a wiring thing what would happen if you put a kill key into a port that wasn't wired that way?
 6. Do you happen to have some links that demonstrate/illustrate differences in the wiring?

I saw a video of what I believe was the non kill key set up and it seemed pretty strait forward. It was wired Wire the port between the battery and the positive and negative pads on the board. But the Emerald/Obsidian is 2 cards and I haven't looked good at the wiring at all yet, I've only looked down the hilt a few times to see what was going on in there. It appears there may be got glue around my AV switch. Not sure if there's a fastening nut under the glue yet. I'm also not sure at what point the power leads split to feed the 2 boards.

I also plan on adding some connectors to things to make the wiring as modular as possible. Not sure when I'm going to start but I want to plan things out right. I'm no expert but no stranger to soldering small boards and components

Has any one done any Emerald/Obsidian transplant yet?

Anyway, Thanks again for your help Racona. Points to you.

[Racona Nova]

Yes, the 12mm AV switches work the same like the 16mm versions, there's no difference.

Now, your Recharge Port questions:

4. I don't own a saber with a kill key setup, but since US doesn't offer special chargers for a kill key setup, I assume the ports are the same. It's just the wiring that is different. Which leads to answer
5. I'm really no expert, but my guess is that nothing would happen.
6. Unfortunately not. I only saw a wiring diagram with the normal Recharge Port setup once, but not with the kill key setup. I don't think that it's requested very often, so getting an answer on this might become a bit difficult...

There was a diagram somewhere showing the wiring of an Emerald/Obsidian setup, maybe I can find that for you.

EDIT: Here it is (even with a Recharge Port in kill key setup according to DarthDaddy) - http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=20367.msg318821#msg318821
If you go through the topic, there is also a post regarding the ground connections which can be simplified.

[Antron007]

Thanks for the link. Can't wait to give it a look. I pulled the trigger and ordered a stunt archon v3 last night.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Racona Nova]

Very nice, hope you enjoy it - and good luck with your project!