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Author Topic: What's the difference between the Blade types? What's the best blade type?  (Read 941266 times)
Ricos
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« Reply #180 on: February 09, 2013, 10:06:48 PM »

As far as structural integrity, is there any difference between HG and UEHG?

Thanks in advanced!

As far as thickness no difference that I'm aware of. UEHG blades are white and the Standard HG are clear with the silver finish look from the blade film inside.
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Luna
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« Reply #181 on: February 09, 2013, 11:52:26 PM »

As far as thickness no difference that I'm aware of. UEHG blades are white and the Standard HG are clear with the silver finish look from the blade film inside.

Correct. The only difference is the color Smiley
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Akos_Amun
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« Reply #182 on: February 12, 2013, 08:25:47 PM »

I have never had a blade break from normal dueling, but I had a cousin who was a little rambunctious with his swings. His lack of control led to him slamming the tip into the pavement and the tip came off.
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Kenobi Rush
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« Reply #183 on: February 14, 2013, 02:22:48 AM »

i wanted 2 buy a HG and UEHG 24in blade. why r they not available
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Luna
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« Reply #184 on: February 14, 2013, 02:56:20 AM »

i wanted 2 buy a HG and UEHG 24in blade. why r they not available

I can't remember a time when 24" UEHGs were available, although I never really paid much attention. I don't know why they aren't available, though... perhaps there isn't much demand for them.
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Noriko
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« Reply #185 on: February 14, 2013, 09:53:21 PM »

i wanted 2 buy a HG and UEHG 24in blade. why r they not available


In the discription of the midgrade initiate blade (http://www.ultrasabers.com/INIT-Blade-p/blades-init.htm) it says:

"Request Midgrade or Heavy Grade blade thickness in the comments field of the order (default is Midgrade)."

So the heavy grades seem to be available after all.
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Lord Raven
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« Reply #186 on: March 20, 2013, 09:12:22 PM »

I've only gotten mid-grade but i have heard they get scratches on them so I'm going to try an ultra edge next time.
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loosekannonn
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« Reply #187 on: April 24, 2013, 02:56:20 AM »

I have searched but have not found the answer I'm looking for so.................
Has anyone actually measured the wall thickness of the different blades?
To say that Blade A's wall thickness is double that of Blade B is only helpful if you know the wall thickness of Blade B.
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #188 on: April 24, 2013, 01:40:58 PM »

The external diameter of all blades is 1".  The internal diameter of the MG and UE is 7/8" so that make the wall thickness 1/8".  The internal diameter of HG and UEHG is 3/4" so that makes the wall thickness 1/4" or 2/8".  Hope that helps answer your question.

Blue
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loosekannonn
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« Reply #189 on: April 24, 2013, 02:28:45 PM »

The external diameter of all blades is 1".  The internal diameter of the MG and UE is 7/8" so that make the wall thickness 1/8".  The internal diameter of HG and UEHG is 3/4" so that makes the wall thickness 1/4" or 2/8".  Hope that helps answer your question.

Blue


Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.
Now I cast and mold replicas and other things and I can get a "Water Clear" silicone rubber that I was actually considering filling the blade with...
Much like a Japanese blade this would yield a blade with a hard exterior with a soft but transparent core... this particular rubber is used for making the uh... "High End" life size sex dolls lol... so it's very resilient and bounces back very well.
I realize that this would add considerable weight to the blade but it just might add that extra level of toughness for dueling at Full Contact.

Any thoughts?

As the Blades are cheap enough, I might just give this a test, if it works out as I think it will, I might just send a sample to Ultrasabers so they can consider adding this as an option.
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Master Bluespike74
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« Reply #190 on: April 24, 2013, 02:37:36 PM »

Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.
Now I cast and mold replicas and other things and I can get a "Water Clear" silicone rubber that I was actually considering filling the blade with...
Much like a Japanese blade this would yield a blade with a hard exterior with a soft but transparent core... this particular rubber is used for making the uh... "High End" life size sex dolls lol... so it's very resilient and bounces back very well.
I realize that this would add considerable weight to the blade but it just might add that extra level of toughness for dueling at Full Contact.

Any thoughts?

As the Blades are cheap enough, I might just give this a test, if it works out as I think it will, I might just send a sample to Ultrasabers so they can consider adding this as an option.

I have gone full contact with the heavy grade blades and they stand up to bokkens quite well.  By willing the blade, you will might lose some of the light diffusing properties that make your saber very bright.  Unless you are wanting to break necks with the blade, I doubt you'll much more toughness than the current heavy grades give. 

It will be interesting to see what you develop though.  Keep us informed.

Blue
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eerockk
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« Reply #191 on: April 24, 2013, 02:38:24 PM »

Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.
Now I cast and mold replicas and other things and I can get a "Water Clear" silicone rubber that I was actually considering filling the blade with...
Much like a Japanese blade this would yield a blade with a hard exterior with a soft but transparent core... this particular rubber is used for making the uh... "High End" life size sex dolls lol... so it's very resilient and bounces back very well.
I realize that this would add considerable weight to the blade but it just might add that extra level of toughness for dueling at Full Contact.

Any thoughts?

As the Blades are cheap enough, I might just give this a test, if it works out as I think it will, I might just send a sample to Ultrasabers so they can consider adding this as an option.

If the light is able to pass unhindered through the silicone, you'll get added strength, weight, and durability (in theory). The silicone won't melt at the LED either, and if you leave the diffuser film in, it should be the same effect as a non-silicone-filled blade, only stronger. This sounds like a neat idea, and I for one would love to see the results.
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Aurentis
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« Reply #192 on: April 24, 2013, 03:41:55 PM »

My UEHG has seen some intense action, and it holds up wonderfully.  You really shouldn't need to fill the blade with anything, it's pretty solid as it is.
Also, it may add more weight than rigidity.  As a LARPer, I've seen a lot of players show up for their first events with PVC boffers that have injection foam or other substances filling the pipe; these weapons are INSANELY heavy for a boffer, and I've never seen the additional material contribute anything to weapon stiffness.  They also crack and break much more easily when they aren't allowed any "give" on impact.

That last part probably won't be an issue, should you pursue this.  My only concerns would be the additional weight, how much rigidity it adds (if it's too little, it may not offset the weight increase) and the possibility of dimming the light.  There's a reason underwater bright lights don't blind you.
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Schtuperman
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« Reply #193 on: April 24, 2013, 07:15:21 PM »

My prediction:  I think its going to be REALLY heavy, way to blade heavy for spinning, and very dim & unevenly lit...
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Darth Brayis
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« Reply #194 on: April 29, 2013, 12:33:32 PM »

Thanks for the post. This is really helpful information.
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