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Author Topic: Anti Vandal Momentary Switch??  (Read 7475 times)
xMattcheeeeww
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« on: May 14, 2012, 06:28:46 PM »

I have a Blue Anodized Liberator, and the stock switch on it is starting to get worn out.  I looked into the Anti Vandal Momentary Switch and I was wondering if anyone knows if it will fit onto the handle?  Also, I am not that experienced with wiring.  To my knowledge though you would take the stock switch out, and the two red wires going to it, you would take off the pull back the casing on the wires yada yada i'm not that inexperienced.  But the red wires, do not have to go in any specific order correct?  So you take the two wires off, throw some heat shrink on, connect the two wires to the new Anti Vandal switch, soder them on and voila?
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Master Nero Attoru
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2012, 06:56:03 PM »

The momentary AV swith won't work with the stunt (no sound) setup you have.  You'll need a latching one.
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xMattcheeeeww
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2012, 07:16:46 PM »

Aw man. Do you know if there are any illumated latching switches?
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jmPlagueis
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2012, 08:41:07 PM »

Go to TCSS. they have wiring diagrams available for the latching AV switches. It is not as simple as it sounds, trust me I am in the process of the same thing right now. Also you will need to drill the switch hole out bigger to fit the 16 mm switches that TCSS sells.

Another thing - If you plan on being able to screw the AV switch in, you will need to know how to drill & tap the hole correctly, which is what I am having issues with right now.
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xMattcheeeeww
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2012, 08:57:08 PM »

I actually had to tap a new retention screw hole the other day and i'm familiar with it so that won't be an issue.  Sounds maybe more trouble than it's worth?
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jmPlagueis
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« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2012, 09:43:02 PM »

Well actually the wiring is pretty straight forward, Im just a little sour about the drilling part right now because apparently a 16 mm tap is non existent in hardware stores Tongue
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xMattcheeeeww
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« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2012, 09:46:35 PM »

hmm... can you send me a link where you found the switch as well?  I couldn't manage to find it.
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jmPlagueis
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« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2012, 11:04:28 PM »

TCSS links wont work on here for some reason Tongue

but just go to ultrasabers.com -> switches -> latching ->  and then there  will be short and long styles to choose from. be aware that the long ones require a tall bezel and the short ones require the normal bezel.
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xMattcheeeeww
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« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2012, 01:39:11 AM »

Well i was looking for a switch with a led around it!  Not just a normal switch  Tongue
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Ninja-Jedi
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2012, 02:35:36 AM »

u cant get a latching LED switch on this site u would need to go to another vendor like TCSS and it is against forum rules to link to
their site on here, they do make latching LED switches i used one on my ninja saber build it was a black latching with blue LED ring and looked freaking awesome but remeber to resistor the LED with the setup u are using also depending on the length of the swith u can make a bezel for insid of the hilt and attach with a nut if u have a long enough switch this method wont work with a short one also people have made snap rings out of pvc to hold switch in. If u thread it be careful solder the switch leads run through the switch hole and thread it in before u solder the other ends or u might break wire
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Kaiden Shardsbane
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« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2012, 03:05:23 AM »

A word of caution:  Illuminated switches require a bit more wiring than the simple in-out of a non-illuminated switch.  You have to have the in-out wires, as well as + and - wires to the LED in the switch itself.

@jmPlagueis:  I don't think you can actually screw switches in to a hilt.  I tried removing a switch that way once, and it turned the wires so far that they snapped.  You'd have to figure a way of screwing it in without twisting the wires.  An activator box with the provided nut underneath sounds like it would be the best option.  (Aside from glue or JB Weld, that is.)
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jmPlagueis
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2012, 09:29:01 AM »

Kaiden -

I was thinking that rotating the hilt around the switch wouldnt cause the wires to twist like they would if i were actually twisting the switch, i could be way wrong, i havent actually tested this.

« Last Edit: May 15, 2012, 09:32:39 AM by jmPlagueis » Logged

Kaiden Shardsbane
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2012, 02:46:37 PM »

Well, according to my calculations...  It still would twist the wires.  Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but turning the hilt around the switch isn't any different than turning the switch.  They're still moving the same way relative to each other.

If you can get the nut that is provided with the switch inside the hilt, with the wires going through it, you might be able to just press-fit the switch in, and then turn the nut with pliers through the emitter.  It won't be as solid to the hilt, but it'll hold it in.

Personally, when I put an AV switch in my Standard Issue, I just used some gorilla glue to hold it down.
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jmPlagueis
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2012, 06:34:29 PM »

What kind of tool do you recommend for getting the nut on? thats what Im having the most trouble with right now
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Kaiden Shardsbane
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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2012, 08:13:52 PM »

Long needle nose pliers might work.  you might have to just kinda push it around with a screwdriver.  When I tried this, I used the screwdriver approach, and was able to spin it enough so that it sat up against the inside of the hilt, but it wasn't very solid, due to lack of leverage.  It would hold the switch in, but it would be wobbly when relying on the nut alone.

Best approach would be to ask someone on here to take a look at one of Ultra's AV-switch sabers, and see how those are attached.  Anyone got pics?
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