Emerald Color Settings-- Just for fun!

[Venger]

Many thanks for the reference guide 

[AdenDurcani]

Point given - I think this thread should be a sticky.  Or should there be a subforum specifically for programming the Emerald driver?

I've been having a lot of fun working on pulse and shimmering effects with it as well.

There's a lot of fun to be had with the Emerald driver.

[AdenDurcani]

Also, just to actually contribute, my interpretation of "Arctic Blue Shimmering" on an UltraEdge blade.  It's really hard to catch on camera but it gives it a nice effect I think.

Be careful with this setup, though, if you or anyone around you is sensitive to strobe lighting.

0 sec ramp up

0.02 sec at top
R 0 G 255 B 255 W 0

0 sec ramp down

0.02 sec at bottom
R 0 G 240 B 240 W 0

FOC 0.1 sec / 0.1 sec
Play 1 time
R 0 G 255 B 255 W 255

[Choco]

Point given this is exactly what I was looking for with my new Emerald saber I got today

[AdenDurcani]

Got a nice (just barely blue) silver tone with these:

R 0, G 125, B 125, W 255

With a nice blue FoC

R 0, G 255, B 255, W 255

[Master Nero Attoru]

Stickied this one, nice job with the list!

[Kal-El]

Thanks Nero, it was definitely time! So many emerald driver enabled sabers floating around now, it is good to have a central location to go through and try out a few combinations.

[Racona Nova]

Agree with Kal, it was definitely a good idea to pool various Emerald settings into one topic.

[AdenDurcani]

I really can't stop messing with Emerald for the last few days and I thought I'd share the colors of the rainbow.  I took the earlier posted color settings, tweaked them a bit, and took pictures with the same methodology/camera to try and show what a single Emerald saber can do.  All of these are just my interpretations and utilizing the work of others in this thread, and I am totally new to all of this, but thought this could be useful to others.

Photo conditions - against a white painted wall, standing vertically. Lights off, no flash. Camera is iPhone 5.
Saber is a Archon 2.1, UltraEdge midgrade blade, with an RGBW LED and 4 channel driver without AV switch (all 4 channels available).

Not sure about the photo sharing etiquette here so I'm just going to share the first one and then link to photobucket for the rest (the photos are labeled).  Note that some of the colors really do look the same as photos, but not really in person, and some even counterintuitively so - as an example, for some reason "Emerald Green" looks bluer in my photo than SRD but in person SRD is definitely more blue.

Guardian Blue




For the rest of the colors:

http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/ssnyder30/slideshow/EmeraldColors

These are my tweaked (some are tweaked, some are the same) color values taken from above along with my own colors at the end.

-----------------------------------------------
Blazing Red:  Red  255
Guardian Blue:  Blue 255
Consular Green: Green  255

Violet Amethyst:  Red  215  Blue  255
Sunrider's Destiny:  Green  255  Blue  45
Fire Orange:  Red  255  Green  80
Arctic Blue:  Green  255  Blue  160
Adegan Silver: White 255

Dark Violet Amethyst:  Red  80  Blue  255
Bane's Heart:  Red  255  Blue  80
Pyrestone Orange:  Red  255  Green  30
Sentinel Yellow:  Red  255  Green  210
Emerald Green:  Green  255  Blue  15

Hot Pink:  Red  255  Blue  25

Silver Blue - Green 125 Blue 125 White 255
Silver Green - Green 215 White 255
Bright Purple/Pink - Red 255 Blue 155 White 135
-----------------------------------------------

One note I've found - Blue is potent stuff. At least on my saber, a little bit of blue can go a long way in making a color more, well, blue.  It's telling to me that the best way I've found so far to make Arctic Blue is to use more green than blue - it just overwhelms the green. At least to my eyes.


Some other notes I've found on pulsing and FoC - I've found an easier method for pulsing than I originally was using - if you have White available, and you aren't using it, just strobe it at 0-0.02-0-0.02 with it low (I like it at 0 and 20 for Guardian Blue). I think I like how this looks better, and it's simpler to tweak as you aren't messing with the color LEDs.

As for FoC - there's lots of things you can do here.  One neat thing to try is to flash RGBW at 255 across the board - what ends up happening is you see a flash that seems like the colors you *aren't* using in the base color mixed in with the white - not sure if this is optical illusion or real.

Recently for FoC I've become partial to just flashing whatever my base color is + White 255.  If you just flash to White only, it has a more jarring effect, whereas just flashing white on top of the base color seems more natural and blends better while still having the desired effect.

I really like FoC on 0.1 - 0.1 Play 1 time.

[Choco]

very nice Aden would you like a lightside or darkside point?

i may have to try some of these with my rgbw and see which ones stand out for me

[Aurick]

If a mod sees this maybe move this to the new emerald enclave section of the forums?

[Genkaku Sho`shyk]

i cant wait to get started on this settings adventure as well.. im still working on my modular build for my internals with my custom US parts only hilt thats a little shorter then most, and i dont like all those wires in there getting cramped in just to brake later and have to fix them, so i went modular, almost done, and will get to work on these settings, cause this is soooooooooooo freaking kool... in sooo any ways, ... US has really made MY star wars wishes come true thus far!

[Darth Obvious]

One note I've found - Blue is potent stuff. At least on my saber, a little bit of blue can go a long way in making a color more, well, blue.  It's telling to me that the best way I've found so far to make Arctic Blue is to use more green than blue - it just overwhelms the green. At least to my eyes.

I agree.

Interestingly, the blue LED seems to have a tiny bit of violet in it. So to make a natural blue color, you need to add a little green into the mix to negate the violet. And to make a light/arctic blue, you definitely need more green than blue, or else it will have a slight lavender tinge to it, especially in brighter ambient lighting conditions.

[Master Bluespike74]

"One note I've found - Blue is potent stuff. At least on my saber, a little bit of blue can go a long way in making a color more, well, blue.  It's telling to me that the best way I've found so far to make Arctic Blue is to use more green than blue - it just overwhelms the green. At least to my eyes."

You don't know the power of the Blue Side of the Force.  You must obey it!!!

I agree.

Interestingly, the blue LED seems to have a tiny bit of violet in it. So to make a natural blue color, you need to add a little green into the mix to negate the violet. And to make a light/arctic blue, you definitely need more green than blue, or else it will have a slight lavender tinge to it, especially in brighter ambient lighting conditions.

Royal Blue is know to do that.  I ordered a special LED recently with 4 custom dies.  It was recommended to me that since I wanted double blue to make one regular Blue and the other Royal Blue to prevent everything turning toward the violet spectrum. 

[Kal-El]

"One note I've found - Blue is potent stuff. At least on my saber, a little bit of blue can go a long way in making a color more, well, blue.  It's telling to me that the best way I've found so far to make Arctic Blue is to use more green than blue - it just overwhelms the green. At least to my eyes."

You don't know the power of the Blue Side of the Force.  You must obey it!!!

Royal Blue is know to do that.  I ordered a special LED recently with 4 custom dies.  It was recommended to me that since I wanted double blue to make one regular Blue and the other Royal Blue to prevent everything turning toward the violet spectrum. 

interesting, I'd like to see a  video of this double blue led in action if you wouldn't mind, just to compare it to the standard used for Guardian Blue.