Li-Ion Battery Setup HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (Please Read Me)

[MilleniaMan]

A quick lesson in batteries from a physicist (me).

First, battery sizes: 14500 are NOT true AA size, they are slightly smaller 14.0 mm circumference x 50.0 mm length. (AA are 14.5 x 50.5). There are larger batteries with much better mAh ratings, but they are physically larger as well. an 18650 battery is 1.2 cm (12 mm) longer than 14500s. To use them would require a different receptacle and more room in your hilt. Bottom line, stick to 14500s.

Second, Voltage is VERY important! STICK to what is recommended here! 3.7v per cell (battery). Voltage will determine how your saber will act. Higher voltages (NOT Recommended!) will create a brighter LED output, but will cause extra heat, and burn out your LEDs much more quickly. It's also not good for your expensive sound boards! 3.6v batteries are out there and will work, likely with minimal change. From a physics standpoint, you might have an ever so slightly dimmer LED output, but no real harm to the mechanics of your saber.

Third, about mAh ratings... the more, the better. BUT make sure the cells you use have a protected circuit board (PCB) built in. I've discovered that batteries without this feature can be "overrun" and you'll never get a proper charge into them ever again. Ultra Sabers provides you with very good batteries (TrustFire 14500 with PCB at 3.7v and 900mAh rating). For your reference, I have found and use UltraFire 14500s (2) with PCB at 3.7v and 1200mAh rating).  The higher rating means your battery charge lasts longer on a single charge. My batteries last about 35-40% longer than the stock ones. 

I hope this helps you all!

[Spizro]

Hey guys,
I just ordered my saber with the lipo and buck puck setup, no charger for me as I already run 14500 in alot of flashlights and have a really nice nitecore charger. Can anyone tell me an estimated run time? It is only a stunt saber(no flash, no sound). I have one saber in a standard setup and I still haven't had to replace the batteries in it from original purchase.
Thanks,
Spiz
P.s. tried to use search function but it kinda sucks in taptalk app so sorry if this has already been touched on.

[MilleniaMan]

Hey guys,
I just ordered my saber with the lipo and buck puck setup, no charger for me as I already run 14500 in alot of flashlights and have a really nice nitecore charger. Can anyone tell me an estimated run time? It is only a stunt saber(no flash, no sound). I have one saber in a standard setup and I still haven't had to replace the batteries in it from original purchase.
Thanks,
Spiz
P.s. tried to use search function but it kinda sucks in taptalk app so sorry if this has already been touched on.

I get slightly more than THREE hours straight run time with my "stock" 900 mAh batteries and get about FOUR and a HALF plus out of my 1200 mAh ones. For your reference, I have a Dark Arbiter in blazing Red with v3 obsidian sound... Without the sound board, I imagine you should get a significant amount more time! Have fun! Enjoy!!

[Lord Sidious]

Is it safe to leave the Li-ion batteries charged via the recharge port using the 1.2A Fast Charger without switching on the saber indefinitely? (My 1.2A Fast Charger charges a flat battery in about an hour without switching on the saber).

[Racona Nova]

Yes, should be no problem. Turn the saber on for some minutes from time to time, though, it's not good when you leave the batteries at full charge for a long time. Use it, let them discharge, then plug the charger in again.

[Lord Sidious]

Let me quote the Ultrasabers note in full. I think it says it very clearly, as follows:

Tips for Li-Ion Battery Care
If you own an Ultrasaber that uses Li-Ion batteries then you have probably wondered what the best way is to take care of the batteries is to prolong them.  One gigantic piece of misinformation is that you shouldn't keep the batteries on the charger (or if you have a recharge port, you shouldn't keep your saber plugged in).  When that is exactly where you should keep them.  Our chargers begin to "trickle charge" once the batteries are fully charged.  Which means that it will keep the batteries topped off but will not overcharge or damage the batteries.
 
The best way to risk damaging your Li-Ion batteries is to leave them in your saber for an extended period without using the saber or charging the batteries.  Over a very long period of time your saber will eventually fully drain the batteries and if your batteries stay idle for an extended period after being completely depleted they will eventually forget how to charge and become "fully dead" battery cells and won't recharge again.  So if your saber is going to be sitting idle for an extended period of time, please remove the batteries and store them in the charger or if you have a recharge port just keep your saber plugged in until the next time you plan to use it.  This will help to preserve your Li-Ion batteries.

[Racona Nova]

I know that note, and I also stick to it However, I've also read a few times that Li-Ions shouldn't be left at full charge for too long. They should be used from time to time, even if it's only for a minute...but it could be that this doesn't apply to US's Li-Ion batteries...

[CJ-Nihilus]

Just wondering, I'm new here and I've tried hunting around the forums but couldn't find any concrete answers for my questions.

It's in relation to battery life with Tri-Cree LED setups.

I have 2 UltraSabers (technically three ) which I got recently and I think they are absolutely fantastic - 1x Bellicose TRI-Blazing Red with V3 sound (Li-on with buck-puck) and 1x Sentinal V4 Staff TRI-Fire Orange no sound, also Li-on buck-puck.

Now I've read a few people saying batteries on full charge should last anywhere from 2-4 hours depending on LED colour and if you have sound or not. I'm assuming this must be with a single LED set-up as even with fully charged batteries fresh from the charger my Bellicose is barely managing 60-90 minutes of runtime - that's with the saber just sitting on a table so only making the Idle noise, if it was to be swung around I can only assume it would be even less time.

The Sentinal staff is getting about 1 hour 45 mins in each hilt for a pair of batteries, sometimes 2 hours but no more than that. I'm not too bothered by it as I have 12x 14500 size rechargeable Li-on Batteries, 6 of them being Xtar that came with the sabers and 6 being Panasonic cells i bought a few weeks ago (so some of the best Li-on cells on the market).

They can pretty much last a full day of trooping at events - only the Sentinal struggles as its 4 batteries at a time, so max 6 hours constant use - the bellicose can go for about 6-8 hours with the 12 batteries I have.

I guess what I'm asking is: is this normal? or is the battery life abnormally low?

I know there is only a 2w difference between TRI-Cree and Single LED so wasn't expecting such a big hit on battery life - as I say the sabers are amazing and I love them but just wanted to make sure battery life is within the realms of normality. To cut down on battery swaps - especially with the Sentinal Staff as its a bit more awkward to swap quickly I'm converting the Sentinals to 18650 size batteries as I can get them in 3400mAh size which should if my maths is correct give me a little over double the battery life between swaps - so around 4 hours or so. With the Bellicose I dont really want to fanny around trying to jam an 18650 size cell in with the sound card and speaker so just gonna leave that on the 14500 size.

[dreambeliever]

Hi guys,

not sure if this have been addressed but I have a few questions regarding batteries.

I'm living in Australia where the Voltage is 240 and 50hz.

I'm aware America is v110 and 60hz.

I've read people talking about buying a convertor for the plug to fit into  the wall socket, however my understanding is that I would actually need a transformer to convert the v240 to v110.

Does the difference in hz effect the batteries or internal wiring?

I've read some horror stories where charging has led to frying the internal wiring and batteries and as shipping to Australia costs over $100 Australian one way I don't exactly want to have to ship a saber back due to a problem charging

Do UltraSabers offer the option to ship with an Australian charger for a fee?

I'm looking at spending over $700 on a Saber with shipping so obviously want to make sure everything will work as it should and won't get damaged over time due to a conversion issue.

[Lord Sidious]

Isn't that the whole point of buying a "Smart Charger" that regulates the charge? US have international customers around the globe and I haven't read nor experienced the "horror stories" to that extent.

[dreambeliever]

Isn't that the whole point of buying a "Smart Charger" that regulates the charge? US have international customers around the globe and I haven't read nor experienced the "horror stories" to that extent.

Great, I'm just making sure.

The stories I'm referring to are more from sources not on here as you might expect like youtube and other forums.

[Lord Sidious]

I think a lot of those cases are folks not following instructions.

All of my US have the Lithium-Ion with recharge port and the 1.2A charger as per Emory's youtube recommendation. Yes, it costs more as an option but I never had any troubles with it, just follow the instructions. I'm not a fan of the disposable batteries because I think it costs more in the long run and these have corrosion issues if left unused, whereas you can simply plug the Li-Ion via the recharge port (i.e. battery inside hilt) to condition the battery if left unused (e.g. away on vacation). All of my sabers have loud sound and FoC etc. which use power. It's generally more convenient to have the Li-Ion + recharge port setup. And if you have several of these sabers with this setup, there is no need to buy multiple smart chargers, just a couple will do, which you can save some monies there. You will need an adapter converter because the charger has USA heads, this is cheap to buy.

[Racona Nova]

All chargers and power supplies have a working range from 100V to 240V and from 50Hz to 60Hz to match almost any country's power standards. I'm using them in Germany (220/230V, 50Hz) and they're working perfectly. The only thing you will need is a plug adapter for your wall sockets.

[dreambeliever]

All chargers and power supplies have a working range from 100V to 240V and from 50Hz to 60Hz to match almost any country's power standards. I'm using them in Germany (220/230V, 50Hz) and they're working perfectly. The only thing you will need is a plug adapter for your wall sockets.

Superb thanks

[Calculon]

Hey all,

Is there a procedure for these batteries when unboxing them for the first time? I have one set up with a charge port and the other with the VP-1.

Im thinking of removing the batteries right away and charging them. Then with my charge port, run my saber like a lamp. Am I able to access the usb port if i do this?

Thank you.