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Author Topic: Basic Build Guide Request (New Builder)  (Read 96770 times)
Benji
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« Reply #75 on: April 05, 2017, 06:05:22 PM »

Which of these would I need if I fried my internals but have everything else?  Dominix V2

I got it from the grab bag, and weathered my saber to my content, but since I didn't want to risk taking it out the wrong way (I'm not remotely mechanical), I decided to soak half of it with all the parts inside aaand thus water+chemicals seeped somehow (even though the bottom was tight, it penetrated somewhere and poured out the emitter end).

Ouch. Well, if you are looking to replace all the internals, exactly as they were, then you will need latching switch, battery pack, batteries, LED and a resistor along with the wire necessary to put it all together.

On the other hand, you could take it apart (you'll have to to replace the internals anyways) and carefully test to see if anything is salvagable (perhaps the wires themselves and, if you're lucky, the LED unit survived). Then go from there.
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CL727
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« Reply #76 on: April 21, 2017, 08:57:35 PM »

Need Some Help,

Trying to customize my Archon v3 to make it look like the V2 ROTJ.   I have a graflex clamp but the hilt is to wide and I have a short stem and I can't connect these 2 together. I'm very close to finishing this product. I have been to wannawanga, tried pastorjedisabers, and have gotten nowhere. I would appreciate some help. Thanks.
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Anger_fear_aggro---OH MY
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« Reply #77 on: May 06, 2017, 04:10:49 AM »

Ouch. Well, if you are looking to replace all the internals, exactly as they were, then you will need latching switch, battery pack, batteries, LED and a resistor along with the wire necessary to put it all together.

On the other hand, you could take it apart (you'll have to to replace the internals anyways) and carefully test to see if anything is salvagable (perhaps the wires themselves and, if you're lucky, the LED unit survived). Then go from there.
Thanks for the response.

After it fully dried, I tested it out and noticed it still turns on, it's just extremely dim.  Since it was a grab bag, and I wanted red but was trying to save money, could I just get a new red LED and be fine?  Since it turned on, I assume everything else is normal/operable.  Might even be the batteries...?

P.S. I cannot open my hilt from the bottom.  Let's just say the weathering was so legit, the metal fused in some parts.  I lack a power saw of any sorts and knives are utterly useless since melded aluminum isn't easy to cut.
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Benji
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« Reply #78 on: May 08, 2017, 09:27:48 PM »

Thanks for the response.

After it fully dried, I tested it out and noticed it still turns on, it's just extremely dim.  Since it was a grab bag, and I wanted red but was trying to save money, could I just get a new red LED and be fine?  Since it turned on, I assume everything else is normal/operable.  Might even be the batteries...?

P.S. I cannot open my hilt from the bottom.  Let's just say the weathering was so legit, the metal fused in some parts.  I lack a power saw of any sorts and knives are utterly useless since melded aluminum isn't easy to cut.
Sorry I'm just now seeing this, I haven't touched the forums since May 3. Life has kept me busy.

You could just get a new red LED and test that, it might be fine. You are going to have to find a way to replace those batteries, though. Then see what happens.
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A_Tang
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« Reply #79 on: July 31, 2017, 05:09:15 PM »

I have two US sabers:

1) Dominix V3 with light and Obsidian lite sound and non-lit AV switch
2) Consular with tri-LED w/ the quick disconnect feature and a guarded switch ( I believe it was called a stunt-saber on the US site)

Is it possible for me to transplant the Obsidian lite soundboard/AAA battery holder/speaker module from my Dominix to my Consular? I'm able and willing to re-solder wiring (and install some connectors if need be) to do this but I'm having trouble finding a wiring diagram.

Also, I'm assuming that I don't need to transplant the LED module - am I correct?

Thanks
AT

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K1LL3RC0ACH96
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« Reply #80 on: August 31, 2017, 01:12:27 AM »

Alright, so here we go.
I am a new builder and I was wanting to know something about the battery pack that might sound like a newbie question (but there's no shame here cause I am one Grin)
When it comes to the battery packs, (if I wanted a saber with sound) does the holder/speaker hook to the LED for the blade ,or do I need to do 2 separate batteries holders for that?
 
Thank you for your time everyone!
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K1LL3RC0ACH96
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« Reply #81 on: August 31, 2017, 01:31:20 AM »

Also, when it comes to blade length, what would be an appropriate size if I am getting the malice emitter?

Thanks
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Badkarma
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« Reply #82 on: January 20, 2018, 08:01:55 PM »

Well first off, you won't anger anyone on here for asking questions lol. We're pretty easy going group here. As to what you need, it's dependent on what you're looking for. If you're looking for a stunt build (no sound), then you'll want this list:

Body
Emitter
Pommel
(Note - Some bodies don't have interchangeable emitters)
Latching Switch
Battery pack
Batteries
Battery charger
LED
Blade

If you want sound, then you need all of the above except:

Battery pack/speaker combo
Obsidian soundboard
Momentary switch
Resistor (I recommend BuckPuck)

Here are some links for you:

Complete hilts - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/78.htm
Bodies only - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/90.htm
Emitters only - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/88.htm
Pommels only - http://www.ultrasabers.com/category-s/86.htm
Battery Pack/speaker combo - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-aacombo.htm
Obsidian board - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-obsidianusb3.0.htm
Batteries and charger - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-battcharcombo.htm
BuckPuck - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-buckpuck1000.htm
LED module for V2 hilts - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/led%20module.htm
LED module for all other hilts - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/mls.htm
Latching switch - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-guardedlatching.htm
Momentary switch - http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-electronics-guardedmomentary.htm
Mid-grade blades - http://www.ultrasabers.com/MG-Blade-p/blades-mid.htm


This is great information! Not sure if I'm going to buy my next saber or build it. I can only imagine the rewarding feeling of seeing your very own saber come to life.
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SimmplyGimmply
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« Reply #83 on: January 22, 2018, 12:51:55 AM »

Not a problem at all! Hope it helped! Mind if I ask what you're planning to build for the saber? Also, are you going sound or stunt? Be sure to ask if you need anything else for help. I know there are a bunch of talented people here who are willing to help, and I'm getting pretty good with building 'em myself. Don't want to toot my own horn too much, but I can walk you through quite a bit.

Im also new to this! I was wondering can any saber (I have ordered a myster box) have a soundboard installed? Granted I am not sure if I have gotten lucky and gotten a sound saber yet.. but in the event that I dont I might want to upgrade it later!

Let the power of the Darkness takeover!
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Therion Jinn
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« Reply #84 on: January 22, 2018, 01:57:04 AM »

Alright, so here we go.
I am a new builder and I was wanting to know something about the battery pack that might sound like a newbie question (but there's no shame here cause I am one Grin)
When it comes to the battery packs, (if I wanted a saber with sound) does the holder/speaker hook to the LED for the blade ,or do I need to do 2 separate batteries holders for that?
 
Thank you for your time everyone!
LED unit is wired through the Soundboard on the Obsidian chips. Only one set of batteries needed
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golem1357
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« Reply #85 on: February 13, 2018, 10:21:47 PM »

i have recently tried purchased some parts to build a lightsaber, and when i did i didn't realize i needed a latching switch and i ended up getting a momentary switch because i have no sound. i was wondering if there was a way to make it work, and if so how would i have to do it (wiring diagram would be nice).
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tx_tuff
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« Reply #86 on: February 13, 2018, 11:54:35 PM »

i have recently tried purchased some parts to build a lightsaber, and when i did i didn't realize i needed a latching switch and i ended up getting a momentary switch because i have no sound. i was wondering if there was a way to make it work, and if so how would i have to do it (wiring diagram would be nice).
Try and research, many things will go into this and none of us can just tell you how with the info provided.

The answer is yes, but you will need other parts. So another company that sells a board separate that is just for that reason. Saw it on YouTube while looking around.

The easiest way is to just order the right switch.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

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Andel-Thön
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« Reply #87 on: June 10, 2018, 10:43:22 PM »

Out of curiosity why would you use a buck Puck instead of a basic resistor? A resistor would be a simpler system. What is the benefit to using the puck instead of a resistor and if you were to use a resistor what resistance would it need to be in ohms? My stunt saber came with a resistor rather than a puck is why I'm asking.
This is great information! Not sure if I'm going to buy my next saber or build it. I can only imagine the rewarding feeling of seeing your very own saber come to life.
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ollivander_apprentice
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« Reply #88 on: June 16, 2018, 10:27:30 AM »

Hi all,

Long time listener, first time caller.

I've got a saber from US previously, and love it - it recently made a cameo as an attention-grabbing prop at a Star Wars themed wedding, quite a few guests might be looking one of their own soon. However, I've finally convinced myself to have a go at building a saber. I am in the fortunate situation that I have access to CNC and 3D printing at work, as well as an understanding boss. I have an idea in mind to pack all the electronics into a metal cylinder, and then machine a shroud to surround it. Could anyone give me some insight into the recommended internal diameter needed to comfortably house the electronics (to be sourced from US), as well as recommended length.

Also, what sized hole and thread would be needed to install the momentary switch, and what thread should I tap into the ends to screw in a US Battery pack/speaker combo and Emitter - are these threads standard for all US pieces?

If I could impose on your generosity a little longer to sanity check a component list for the electronics if I want sound and lighting, does the following sound like a complete Build of Materials?

Emitter
Pommel
Batter pack / speaker combo
Obsidian card
LED module (any recommendation on the best colour that could be described as yellow?)
Momentary switch
BuckPuck
Blade

Many thanks all, looking forward to the future sweet sound of an activating saber.

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Dauntless Seven
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« Reply #89 on: June 17, 2018, 06:35:47 PM »

Hi.  This sounds like an epic first project.  Before we start answering your questions... have you at all considered looking at the complete empty hilt packages or individual build your own saber parts on the US sales site ?  Your very first customization/build experience should be fun versus worrysome and a more easy to complete project without damaging pieces sometimes beyond repair/useability.  Blown sound boards can be costly.  You could create a 3D shroud and other decorative modifications.

Let us know if you are a newbie or an experienced at finer soldering, electronics, tap & drill, retention screws, threading, dremel, etc.  Smiley
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